Rocker Fairy??

[hotrod24]

i got one of them seam tools for christmas but have not used it yet

[Blazin]

Those work good but the spot welds need to be drilled out first with a spot weld cutter.

[frogman68]

Those work good but the spot welds need to be drilled out first with a spot weld cutter.

I bought one of these and a spot weld cutter I might (emphasize on might )  be getting a handle on body work ..

Thanks again

[frogman68]

  I screwed the first rocker up by cutting it short so I put it in like it was suppose to (the way it looked right) and measured how short it was 5/16 so I already ordered another one for the never work on project. I took the one I cut short and put it on a level floor measured at all the corners then did the same for the new one adding a 1/2 in (so in theory it should be 3/16 to big) go and put it on and it is still to &%&#^@ short by 5/16 what am I doing wrong ? There really is not much left in the area of the rockers to hold it to.

Thanks

[Bitzer!]

Those work good but the spot welds need to be drilled out first with a spot weld cutter.

I bought one of these and a spot weld cutter I might (emphasize on might )  be getting a handle on body work ..

Thanks again

To find spot welds under heavy painted panels use a grinder/ sander with a medium paper. lightly buff all the edges until all you have left are round painted welds! easy peasy        If you haven't got a spot welder and use a mig to do the job, as blazin said drill a smallish hole (i'm no good with sizes!) but only through the top panel. Make sure you have a good earth on the back panel and weld onto the back panel 1st then swirl the weld thru into the front panel! Hope that makes sense 

[HAULIN IT]

Frogman, I'd really like to see you get through this! Unless you measured wrong somehow, the only other thought I have is that the lower portion (below the fold that you see with the door closed), likely the bottom lip is wider on the new rocker & when you laid it out, the distance from the door gap upward got cheated, maybe?
 Not that this is your too short problem, but do you have a properly mounted & working door? Bushings are good, door isn't drooped. One problem on some pretty rotted ones is that the bottom of the cowl opens up (goes forward) & the upper hinge area rolls back. On the "bad ones" I get the body back into place (porta power, come along, ect.) & weld an angle iron from front to back on the inside of the pinchweld. I you mount it in the right place, the door (with trim panel & all) can be opened & shut while you work. Once the rocker, floor, mount, braces, ect. are in...cut the angle iron out. Good Luck! Third time's a charm, Lorne

[frogman68]

Well no luck with the woodruff key so back to the body work. I got it cut right but I could either have the bottom of the rocker line up flush with the door or have the rocker line up with the body lines inside the door I went with the body line. Be easy it was my first (really third if you count the two failures )









Thanks for the help everyone now to the "hard" side..

[hotrod24]

nice work man i can not wait to start that

[frogman68]

There must be a Rocker Fairy. Went to work on the rust bucket today and when I went to line up the rear quarter I noticed the Rocker was almost perfect. Went and looked at the pics I took and yes the fit is alot better

Today



when I welded it



not sure if when it cooled it moved or what but I am happy.

Had to make a inner piece for the rocker and rear quarter to attach too I think it came out good

Old piece



After making a template out of construction paper this is what I ended up with I think it was pretty close



Here is a test fit of it in the rear quarter panel piece



Here it is mounted in the truck I used some 2 inch by 1/8 thick angle iron think that will be a little stronger



for the inside just used a piece of 16 ga steel



After (it seemed like hours ) of cutting then grinding to get the rear quarter patch to fit close (had to trim the end of the rocker)



Here it is tacked in, I flanged the upper part that remained so the bondo or whatever I use will fill in my imperfections..



I think its ready for bondo the sun started to set so I had to call it a day

[Bitzer!]

Fair play m8, that looks a whole lot better!!

[HAULIN IT]

Yes, You seem to be on a better plan. One thing that concerns me is in the picture where you have the door closed & the quarter patch installed...the gap in the Gray area looks good & then gets tight, then ok at the bottom tip. Has the door been poorly patched before? Your seam area on the quarter looks straight. As I mentioned before, I would not consider welding anything in without the door I was going to use (there are too many variables). At least when you paint the truck your panels will be the best you could make them...if a few years later, you need to replace a door, you may have a little bit of trouble (which is why I suggested a slightly bigger gap than you had originally, especially on the bottom), but why go through that compromise before you ever drive the truck? 
 On a side note, Hats off to you when you get it done... That's a rough pup! Saving One more for another "Go 'round". Lorne

[Blazin]

Looks pretty good. Just remember when you prep for body filler you need to grind it ( with 24 grit ) Up about18 plus inches from your weld to blend it in good. Di you over lap it? If so a few inches below the weld should be good. I you but welded it I would grind it down a ways too.

[frogman68]

Looks pretty good. Just remember when you prep for body filler you need to grind it ( with 24 grit ) Up about18 plus inches from your weld to blend it in good. Di you over lap it? If so a few inches below the weld should be good. I you but welded it I would grind it down a ways too.

Everyone here said to overlap so thats what I did

I flanged the over lap (over lap is about a 1/4 inch and the flange is 1/2) so I have a little indentation on the top

Another  couple of question ( you knew it was coming) the front cab support does it go in before the floor or after ? how about the inner rocker ? I have like a 1/2 gap when I try now to put the front cab support in.

The piece that goes under the cab and mounts to the inner most bolt of the inner fender was rusted through lucky for me I had the one(s) I bought for the 76 just had to cut the end off (where the rear bench seat bolts too).

I am too tired to take pics but I think today was a pretty good day hopefully more pics sometime this week

[Blazin]

Well not really before or after. When I do a floor / rocker I have everything clamped or screwed in place before I fire up the welder. Some times I tack a few parts before hand. As far as the inner rocker and the floor support they should be tight against each other. Might have to do a little modification to make them so.