6" lift questions

[bigjayfromwa]

Well i did a search and didnt come up with much.

I am looking at putting on a six in lift on my 76 3/4ton pickup... my questions are what all is involved with a kit like this?   As far as modifying my steering (steering arm and ), front driveline mods?  i'm sure i'll have to shim my axles for the right angles too (or cut and weld on new perches)

Also i saw on a few posts here as far as ride goes...but i would like to have a decent ride yet also be able to use it for hauling my camper (2500lbs) and towing (3 horse trailer w/camper).  I imagine i could get overloads with new springs.  Or should i just keep my old springs and use blocks?

I can build/fabricate most anything if it comes down to it, i just want it built solid since i will be using it for hauling and towing.

This is only my second post so thank you for any information you guys may have!!

[oldwhity]

Hey Big, I'm also thinking of a 6" for my 81 K20. If your still going to haul those kinds of loads you may just want to use longer shackles and a block for the rear to carry the same payload and just get springs for the front. I believe 6" is the most you can go before it's recommended to shim the rear and I believe it's a steering arm that will be needed. Shimming the transfer case will also need to be done along with extending the driveshafts and replacing the u-joints. You may have to extend the break lines too.

I not sure how much of a payload aftermarket springs can actually hold. If you second guess blocks in the rear, you could have springs made to handle the load and give you the lift you need( there are a couple of places that still do this).

[choptop]

 The kit is bolt on. Replace the front springs which should change the angle of the pinion for you, so no problem there, and if your going to be towing and hauling large items, I highly recommend getting the rear springs as well instaed of the blocks. You will need longer brake lines, and shocks. Now, be ready for someone to tell you that the stock brake lines can be used. They can be, buy you have to unclip them from the mounting bracketsm and bendm and then they just flop, and if you get into some articulatiion, they are probably gone, so its worth it to do it right.
     I think the biggest pain of doing my lift was replacing the steering arm of the left knuckel. It was a pain to get off, but someone probably knows an easy way to get it off. The front shaft will probably need to be lengthened. I have heard otherwise, but mine needs to be lengthened, . and I would get a cv joint put on it as well.
   Ride wise, I think the tires you run will affect it more than the lift,I have driven trucks with 20 inch rims and 40 inch tires and they handled great, alot better than my 38s, but I am not a fan of 30 inch wheels,18's are ok. When you order your lift, let them know what you are planning to do with the truck. Some kits have a soft ride, others maintain closer to stock ride. If your hauling with it, I wouldnt go with the softride because youll be squatting the truck eveytime you load it. Unless you go with a trick air sping system, you have to sacrifice some ride qualities for hauling capabilities.

[bigjayfromwa]

Well i plan on running 35in tires probably something comparable to bfg mud terrains with a 16 or 17in wheel.  I'm not a fan of the big huge wheels at all, they remind me of hot wheel cars.  I like to use my truck as a truck and still look good.

I figured i would have to lengthen the drivelines and brake lines. I would go with the stainless lines, since i figure if you're going to do something you might as well do it right versus cheap and half a**. 

I heard you mention that i may need to lower the transfer case though... Now if i do that will i also have to cut out my floor at all?  Since i dont know if the shift lever will still have full movement? 

I do thank you for all the information though!

[choptop]

I dont know about the transfer case thing, I didnt do anything to mine. As far as the tires, I think that 315/75 r 16's are close to 35s. This number will open your options on tires.

[dixieoffroad86]

i had a friend install a 4 inch on an 86 k10 i had, he has installed everything from 2 inch up to custom 20 inch lifts on these trucks. for the 6 inch and 4 inch you dont have to shim the axles or anything like that all you have to do is the transfer case has some spacers on the bolts flip them so that they are underneath the framerail so that the skid plate (crossmember for xfer case) is below the framerail by that spacer amount if it doesnt have them they are just a 1 inch piece of tube. this will set all your pinion angles correct for the 4 or 6 inch lift hope this helps any questions you can ask or email me dixieoffroad86@yahoo.com

[Irish_Alley]

I have a six on mine w/ blocks and iv haled my 86 1/2 ton with it with out a prob. it did tend to squat a lil tho i also have 6" rear spring just sitting going to try them and see what the difference is. as far as the trans case is idk i didn't have to the only mods that have to be done is new break lines or just disconnect the clips sway bar drop i think thats about it with a 6 and a new steering arm or new adjusting sleeve to compinsate for the lift

[captain carnage]

I have a 4 inch lift in my 83 with blocks in the rear and soft ride springs in the front, most people are amazed by the ride, and it can still handle LOTS of cargo weight. This is running BFG muds and trxus muds.

[cracker0169]

I'm running 6" Pro Comps springs on mine (all 4 corners).  I havent hauled anything so I cant offer feedback on that. However, I can offer up this much.  When you order your kit, be sure to order the stainless extended brake lines, raised steering arm, drop brackets for sway bar, and get the springs for the rear.  As far as the transfer case, mine is crossmember is mounted flush against the frame, not dropped. I had to get a rear driveshaft built (swapped from auto to manual trans not due to lift kit) but the front driveshaft still works.  I have flexed the front out pretty good and the driveshaft has held together.  The only change I am going to do to mine is upgrade my shocks to nitro Pro Comps.

As far as your concerns with load carrying, Firestone does have an airbag kit for these trucks that bolts in between the frame and the axle.  To compensate for the lift, a company makes a block (looks like a body lift puck) that installs between the axle and the bag.

[choptop]

I learned recently that the spacer drop for the transfercase iss alomost required for a short wheel base vehilce because the angle causes the driveshaft yoke to hit the pinion yoke bolts on the rearend. I saw what it did when I disassembled the donor blazer. On my extended cab it isnt even close to hitting, but it is a long wheel base. I was informed that even though its may not be necassary because of the long wheel base, it is advised because it will make the u joints last longer

[Wardog]

I've been lifting these trucks since the late 70's and found it is pretty much you get what you pay for.  Talk to the manufacturers, all systems are not the same and they know their stuff better than anyone.
Something to always consider is the drivetrain geometry.  Using blocks will give you the lift you desire but it will cause excessive wear on driveshaft u-joints.  You hafta think about how your leaf spring is actually articulating.  Most of the time it is bending in a "S" manner when torque from the engine is applied with a pivot (center) point being where spring and axle housing meet.  With blocks the pivot point will be where the block and spring meet and create a pendulum effect on the housing.  It is very important that the front axle remain in the same orientation as it came from the factory.  If it is tilted (pinion angle changed) then you will change all of your steering geometry, creating huge hassles.  Lowering your tranny crossmember helps keeps the angles at a tolerable degree but then you are moving more things below the frame line.  You will need a new steering arm and brake lines and drive shafts.  What it will boil down to is how much you want to spend.
Good Luck.

[murraygmc]

got any picks on a 4'' lift and the t cace dill??? i plan on doing that to mine

[oldwhity]

Hey Big, I didn't notice anyone mentioned the exhaust. If yours still has the factory "Y" pipe, this may be a good time to think about aftermarket or custom exhaust. The "Y" pipe may interfere with you front driveshaft.