New guy with a New truck and old Q probably--

[Fast_suv]

Well bro you should look at a few things.   Are the Tires Bald? Is there anything in the bed.  Does it have air shocks?  There has to be a good reason for the wheel hop.  Its not a light truck. 

Yeah, I was suprised when id hopped them the first time too..

I would check the torque on your springs and u-bolts and check the shocks. If they check out ok check your trans mount and driveline angles.

When you say check the torque on the springs you mean to make sure all is tight and to torque spec?
Tran mount look fairly new..
How dow i check my driveline angles?

[DnStClr]

Wheel hop gets to be common on trucks that are lifted. When you lift a truck, the angle of the driveshaft is changed. So when power is applied to the driveshaft, it affects the arch on the rear springs. The springs tend to flatten out, and that energy causes the driveshaft to kick back around and the tires lose traction as the rear of the truck hops. So you can see why the driveline angle gets to be important- when the distance between the center of the driveshaft (also called propshaft) and the spring pack changes, something is gonna  happen to counteract that change. Higher lifts mean it takes less force,or torque,to make the truck hop.
Sometimes a helper spring can be added, or traction bars. A Bent wheel and the other things that the guys mentioned can cause the hop. But remember, when the engineering of the truck is altered there will be other changes to deal with..

[Fast_suv]

Wheel hop gets to be common on trucks that are lifted. When you lift a truck, the angle of the driveshaft is changed. So when power is applied to the driveshaft, it affects the arch on the rear springs. The springs tend to flatten out, and that energy causes the driveshaft to kick back around and the tires lose traction as the rear of the truck hops. So you can see why the driveline angle gets to be important- when the distance between the center of the driveshaft (also called propshaft) and the spring pack changes, something is gonna  happen to counteract that change. Higher lifts mean it takes less force,or torque,to make the truck hop.
Sometimes a helper spring can be added, or traction bars. A Bent wheel and the other things that the guys mentioned can cause the hop. But remember, when the engineering of the truck is altered there will be other changes to deal with..

Good to know.
I found a Site that sells set of Tuff Country Ladder Bars (359.00) and Super-Trac Traction Bar Kit (299.00) for the 1976 1/2 Ton K10.
I may order those but first i wnat to tune my Carb... Running insainly rich.i used 1/4 tank to go 5 miles.

Working on that and the Hub removal and lug replacement today.

[Just-speed]

Need help reach out.  Email me at just-speed@earthlink.net for instant help.  Email comes to my phone aswell.

[Fast_suv]

Need help reach out.  Email me at just-speed@earthlink.net for instant help.  Email comes to my phone aswell.

Thanks man


I got my speedometer working last night and then received my autometer speedometer in the mail like 10 min later.. Figures.....
Pics coming son....
Tons of parts to unload too


When i go to replace my lugs should the whole rotor com off or is it two separate pieces?


Thanks guys.....

[Just-speed]

its two pieces but you can leave as one.    The Rotor is behind the hub. But they both must come off. They will come off as one kinda stuck together. 

Summit just dropped off new lugs and nuts for me last night. Aswell as new Lockers. Gonna try some Mile Markers. 

[Fast_suv]

its two pieces but you can leave as one.    The Rotor is behind the hub. But they both must come off. They will come off as one kinda stuck together. 

I tried and trid the other day and couldnt get them apart.. im trying again today i think... weather permitting

[Just-speed]

Bro.........take them both off as one.......   You can leave them as one. 

[Fast_suv]

Bro.........take them both off as one.......   You can leave them as one.

Sweet, thanks... I worked on cutting up the gage cluster for the autometer speedo yestorday between cutting the grass and picking up a sheet of MDF for speakers.... today hopefully is Stud replacement day. .. Saw you Post on wheel studs so ill try the torque wrench, washer, and blot way see if it works...

Pics tonight of the Before and after of everything so far...

Thanks for everyone's help so far!!!

[Fast_suv]

WOOOOHOOOOO got the lugs replaces and the carb adjusted some what..... BUT

I realized that the lift i hav eit a rough country 6" lift... witch uses these HUGE blocks in the back... from what i understand .. thats not what i want to use at all...

What can i do to fix that...

[4x4orbust]

remove the blocks and replace them with 6" lift springs.   i don't think they are that expensive, check on rough country's web site.   the blocls could be part of the problem with you're wheelhop...

[Fast_suv]

remove the blocks and replace them with 6" lift springs.   i don't think they are that expensive, check on rough country's web site.   the blocls could be part of the problem with you're wheelhop...

Thats what my cousin said too....


another project   wooooooohooo

[Fast_suv]

SOOO i have a question ...again...

Im in the middle of my cab swap and im putting things baack togeather and noticed that my 4wd shifter only moves stright foward and backward due to the shifter having a metal guide preventing it from moving left to right. after pulling parts from about 5 different trucks in the pick and pull yard every 4wd they had had a slight left to right movement as you shifted foward..... like


------4hi-------
------ N -------
--------2hi-----
--------4lo-----


somthing like that (gear lables may be wrong)

What i want to know is, is my shifter right? there was a few thing on the truck when i got it that seemed "rigged" to work so i was curious if this could be one of them? if so i would like to have the correct selector. (when i go into the what i have labled as 4hi, N, or 2hi position it almost seems like it slips out to N very easy)

HELP lol

thanks guys

[Fast_suv]

best pic i have at work

[Fast_suv]

Hey Fast   Welcome.

They guys answered your questions and you should be good to go.  My brother has that same truck primer Gray just like yours. Nice truck.  

Listen the choke on that carb. The tie strap is being used to to keep the choke arm from moving. The guy you bought it from was not using the choke and hated that the choke would close part way after full throttle running. He put that there so he would not have to worry about it.  Do you need a choke?   Does the truck start right up and keep running?  If not you will want to hook the choke back up. Like the guys said just supply the 12v. left side is NEG right is 12v. YOu want the 12v to be keyed.  Need help figuring how to adjst it let us know.  

The vent tube you got covered.  

The shifter.  Keep in mind the transfer case shifter does not just go up and down. There is a slight side movement.  All the way up to the front of the truck is for 2H.  All the way down is 4L  nothing else needed......lol      Also your transfer case could be a pain like mine. Mine wont shift until from low to high until the driveshaft stops.    Enjoy your truck.

I hooked up the Choke yesterday and nothing happened. it doesnt seem to mave anything move or anything. Is there some sort of adjustment i need?

also i only have a supply line running from the fuel tank. Do i need the other two?

Runs really rich and takes a little to get her started... (still working on the fuel gauge too.. got it re wired but still reading weird on my multimeter)