Author Topic: 1987 R10 Driver  (Read 224468 times)

Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #105 on: November 19, 2012, 02:50:14 PM »
Sunday, November 4th, 2012: Started tracing all the wiring for the accessory power to the VHX controller, after tracing it back from the controller to the back of the fuse panel (took about an hour as all of this is taped now) I found what the issue was.  I left the fuse out.  Next was to trace the power wire, after tracing it back to the fuse block I found that I had spliced it into a connector that needed accessory power, but didn't plug it in either (Now I am taking better notes on what I did so I don't have to do this again).  I ended up removing the splice and getting a connector so I could plug it into the BAT port of the fuse panel.  Once all that was completed I went back and verified everything, put a battery in and then tested it to make sure it would crank.  So here is the second time it turned over.


Once that was verified I moved on to installing the radiator hoses (from the donor 6.0L) onto my aftermarket Aluminum radiator, then installed the Electric fans from Perma Cool.  Prior to running out of daylight I found the upper radiator hose wasn't going to fit my 73-80 (larger upper inlet) radiator.




Since it was dark I took a short video of the gauges in the dark when they are turned on.


Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #106 on: November 19, 2012, 02:52:16 PM »
Saturday, November 10th, 2012: The better part of the day was spent trying to get a constant/consistent 12V to the Fuel pump.  Since the truck was dual tanks I removed the second splice for the passenger side tank and used it to extend down to the rear mounted tank.  At first I thought I had it wired incorrectly, so I pulled the unit from the tank and hook it to the original plug, no go.  Pulled a senders from one of the saddle tanks I removed and it didn't work, so I pulled the other and it did work, so I chalked it up as a bad AC241 pump.  Removed the aluminum radiator and replaced it with a copper brass 3 flue from the 1989 K5.  Hooked all of the radiator lines and transmission lines back up and re-installed the Electric Fans. 



I then moved to the driveshaft.  After getting it in position I found several of the holes were filled with dirt dauber, so I proceeded to clean them out.  I pulled the straps supplied by the driveshaft builder and found they were no where near working, so I had to leave it partially installed only connected to the rear axle yoke.

Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #107 on: November 19, 2012, 02:52:48 PM »
Monday, November 12th, 2012: I picked up a new AC 381 pump and strainer along with some new u-joint straps.  I actually picked up and returned 2 sets that didn't work and went to 3 different stores.

Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #108 on: November 19, 2012, 02:53:22 PM »
Tuesday, November 13th, 2012:Went by the driveshaft shop to return the incorrect strap kit and they counter guy told me that is all he had.  After requesting to speak with the driveshaft guy that has been building me driveshafts for the past 20+ years I finally got the straps I needed and found they were dealer only straps.

Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #109 on: November 19, 2012, 02:58:07 PM »
Saturday, November 17th, 2012: Installed the new straps on the transmission yoke, driveshaft is in.



Pulled the sending unit out and instead of removing the old pump I just hooked the new one up and nothing.  After tracing everything back with the help of my daughter turning on the key I found power coming from the ECM at the connector and that I neglected to reconnect it.  After connecting it, I still didn't get consistent 12V.  So with some help of my wife testing all of the connections 20 more times I found plug coming from the ECM had come loose, so I put a connector on it and now I have power.

Now comes time to modify the AC381 pump to fit in the TBI sender.  The pump comes with 2 tangs on it that must be removed completely before it will go back in the pump tray.  Here is a picture after cutting the first one off flush.



This is where both are cut off but not cut down flush for the gasket to fit.  Note is it beside a AC241 pump with the recess cut down, the AC381 must match what the AC241 and the stock pump look like to seat properly.



After installing the pump to the sending unit, I fulled it with 2.5 gallons of gas and it was put back in the tank and the lines were reconnected.



All of the fittings from the tank to the back of the intake were then tightened up.  Then with the help of my wife the system was flushed out before connecting to the feed/supply lines.  After checking for leaks I had her turn it over a few times to make sure everything was ok.  Installed the spark plug wires and decided it was the moment to see it it would fire off.


No there wasn't any fire, LOL, the truck only has 3/4 length headers and she felt heat coming from under the truck.  After a walk around and crawl under and no leaks we tried cranking it over a few more times to make sure of no leaks.  This is the 4th time we cranked it over.  My daughter actually cranked it this time.


Offline 87454westernhauler

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #110 on: November 19, 2012, 09:38:58 PM »
i think i see the light at the end of the tunel! 8)
86 c10 350 sbc 700R4 Daily Driver
79 gmc c20 350 th350
78 k1500 4x4 350 th350

Offline 79brent

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #111 on: November 21, 2012, 10:20:25 AM »
I want to swap a 6.0 4l80 in my truck after driving my dads 03 2500 but i would have to keep all the factory smog equipment. Sounds like even more of a wiring nightmare that I dont think I would be able to do myself  ???. What would it cost to have all the wiring hooked up at a shop? I can do everything else. Good luck with it 8)
1979 Chevy C10 Silverado package. 350/350

"Lifes a garden DIG it"

Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #112 on: November 21, 2012, 10:45:16 AM »
Emmissions isn't going to be any harder. My harness (and the factory one) will already have it in there.  If you use the factory harness you only need about 5 wires going into the firewall.  My K5 conversion will be done like that most likely.

No idea on the cost though, but like I said, if you get a pullout with everything from the intake to the exhaust, it simplifies the process...

Offline 79brent

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #113 on: November 21, 2012, 02:43:53 PM »
Oh alright good to know. Thankyou  8)
1979 Chevy C10 Silverado package. 350/350

"Lifes a garden DIG it"

Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #114 on: November 22, 2012, 02:17:03 PM »
Wednesday, November 21st, 2012 Got my dyno guy to come by last night and removed the theft lock, so now it will crank and run.  Now I have to find the miss.

Offline DnStClr

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #115 on: November 23, 2012, 06:52:00 PM »
It doesn't sound like your help is wild about the exhaust sound. lol.. You better get the pipes hooked up so they won't boycott the job.
Don
87 Chevy Silverado

Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #116 on: December 08, 2012, 02:22:12 PM »
Saturday, November 24th, 2012: Brazed on a fitting to the radiator heater core fitting as I don't need it anymore and I am running the steam line to it.  Hooked up the heater hoses to and filled up the motor with coolant.  Didn't want it to get cold and ruin all this progress and also didn't want to over heat the motor trying to find the miss.  After cranking it a few times I found that either the gaskets or the water pump is leaking. And I the miss is either an injector, the coil pack, the spark plug or just been sitting to long...



Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #117 on: December 08, 2012, 02:38:03 PM »
Sunday, November 24th, 2012:  spent the day tracking down the Miss.  I need to turn off the EVAP and EGR in the ECM as they keep throwing codes.  After getting it running long enough a putting some WD40 in the cylinders, most of the missing stopped.  Pulled the plugs out of the missing cylinders and it didn't appear to be firing so I swapped them out.  That fixed a miss.  Pulled the plug wires off to see if the coil packs were firing, all were good now.  (no idea why), but I still had one miss on #1 and #2.  After unplugging the injector wire on each and then playing with the plug wires the missed stopped.

I also wanted found that the 700R4 gear selector bracket won't work on a 4L80E.  Sort figured it, but wanted to confirm.  I pulled the bracket off my 91 CrewCab with a 4L80E and put in on the 4L80E in this truck, hooked everything up and I am able to get it into gear.  IF you want to use the factory brackets, they will work, BUT you have to get them off the trucks that have the 15614397 number on it.  Here is a picture of a 4L80E (you can see 4397) on the left and the 700R4 on the right.  Note the orientation of the slot in the center.




I also hooked up the Silver/Blue VHX gauges at night so you can see what they look like.



Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #118 on: December 08, 2012, 04:43:31 PM »
Monday - Tuesday, November 27th, 2012: Searched for a 4L80E bracket with no luck.  Ordered a Lokar ACA-1800 kit.  Hoping that it will work.

Thursday, November 29th, 2012: Shift kit arrived.


« Last Edit: January 06, 2013, 02:53:47 PM by Captkaos »

Offline Captkaos

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Re: 1987 R10 Driver
« Reply #119 on: December 08, 2012, 04:59:08 PM »
Saturday, December 8th, 2012 Got the EVAP and EGR (thanks James, http://hensonperformance.com) turned off in the ECM and temporarily hooked up the MAF to verify not codes are thrown.  All the missing is gone.  Started to work on the shift linkage.

« Last Edit: December 08, 2012, 05:09:06 PM by Captkaos »