What to expect when lowering using 3" drop spindles and a flip kit

[JBerryhill]

I recently lowered my 87 SWB using BellTech 3" drop spindles and a rear axle flip kit, I had a lot of questions about this so I figured I would post everything I had to do in order to do this for anyone wishing to do the same in the future. Here are my parts as follows:

Spindles: BellTech BEL3100 for 1 1/2 rotors 150.00 used
Flip Kit:    DJM-FK1024 84.00 at Summit
Rear Shocks:Gabriel Gardian 82003 same dimensions as BellTech Nitro shocks 16.00 at AutoZone

My truck originally had the 1 inch rotors (standard brakes) and I wanted the heavy duty brakes (1 1/2 inch rotors) so while I had the truck tore apart I bought new Rotors, Calipers, bearings, seals and brake lines. This was about 130.00 extra but well worth it.

I started in the rear and the night before I sprayed everything nut and bolt that would be removed with PB Blaster, don't even think about using anything else. I had the luxury of using a rack which made this job easier, but you can do this with a couple of sets of jack stands.

I supported the rear end housing and removed the Shocks, U-bolts and Plates,  you have to turn the leaf spring tie bolt over so be sure to spray them too, I bought new ones. Using a C-clamp and getting as close to the bolt as possible, clamp the springs and remove the tie bolt and flip it around and re-tighten it on both spring sets. While all of this is out of the way remove your bump stop brackets by which ever means you can (Cutting torch, grinder, chisel) I have listed them in order of ease of removing. Raise the rear housing up about 6 inches and re-install the rear springs with the axle tube on top of the springs now. Place the U shaped axle tube locator from the flip kit on top of the springs with the hole towards the front of the truck and lower the rear end so that it sets inside of it. While you have the plates off you will have to drill an elongated hole or use a torch to make a hole in each one of them in order for your tie bolts to sit in, they will be installed on the bottom of your springs now. Reinstall the U-bolts and plates and just snug them down a little, before you fully tighten them down take a hammer and hit the axle and U-shaped axle locator toward the rear of the truck, it will move about a half inch back, this will give your yoke more room in the tail shaft. I measured both sides to make sure the rear end was straight also. Re-tighten U-bolts and replace your shocks. If your kit includes shock extenders install them per the instructions and reinstall your factory shocks. If you are not using the extenders buy drop shocks BellTech BEL8511 or you can buy the shocks I listed above they ride great and are cheaper than the BellTechs.

Moving to the front: I would use some brake cleaner to remove all the grime and grease around all the spindle nuts first and then remove cotter pins from upper and lower ball joint and tie rod ends. Use a floor jack to support the lower control arm before removing the nuts. Remove the caliper and hang it up using wire or a bungee cord so that the line does not get damaged. Remove the nuts from upper, lower ball joints and tie rod. Now you are ready for the fun part, getting the ball joints loose from the spindles.... I used an air hammer and had good luck with all of them except the lower ball joint on the passenger side, I had to use a BIG hammer and pickle fork on it while beating the crap out of the spindle (do not use a torch, you will burn up you ball joint boot). Once all that is loose, just lift the upper control arm up and lift the spindle out. Place the new spindle in and install everything in the reverse order and move to the other side and repeat. With the lowering spindles you do not have to replace your shocks or get the front end aligned. Some people also may have to grind around the bottom of the lower control arm to clear your rims (I did with 15 X 8 Centerlines) if so use a grinder and shave off the bottom edge about 1/4 of an inch. I rechecked my clearance with the lugs tightened. Be sure to recheck everything that was pulled loose and take it for a spin and then re tighten everything again afterward. 

After completion my truck looked lower in the rear due to the front fender opening being higher than the rear, but I put a level under the cab and it is actually 1/2 lower in the front. You may want to cut 1/2 to 1 full coil off the front spring in order to give it a raked look. I am doing this later. I am very happy with the look and ride of my truck now and I'm glad I did use the spindles instead of cutting or using lowering coils. My truck has a factory ride and drive, it does not feel bumpy or choppy like most lowered vehicles do. In fact it rides better than it ever did!! I hope this helps the next person doing this project, it is a lot of work but well worth it when you are finished. It took me all day but I had to install new brake parts and go to the parts store a few times and I also flushed my brake system.

I do have a few tips:

If you have a hammer get a bigger one and borrow another one for back up
You will use every tool in your box and probably some of your buddies
Auto Zone and Advance offer a Loan-a-Tool program (use it)
Have plenty of antiseptic and bandages on hand
Your curse jar will be full of money once this project is completed (use it for hard liquor afterward)
A bolt in part is NEVER bolt in
A chisel never works, a cutting torch always does
If your budget is a certain amount- double it.

[Novadiecast]

Excellent right up!!!! Thanks from all of us interested in doing this drop to our trucks. Do I smell a sticky .

[Captkaos]

yes you do, well a tech page  I am just making sure there are no more questions

[JBerryhill]

Also if anyone is interested in doing the heavy duty brake upgrade you will need the following:

Advance Auto Parts
2- 1 1/2 inch rotors WearEver Brand YH141043  26.99 each =55.98
2- Calipers Cardone Brand 184126 and 184127 13.99 each= 27.98 +30.00 core charge
2- inner bearings Motor City brand SA3 3.99 each = 7.98
2- outer bearings Motor City brand SA5  3.39 each = 6.78
2-inner seals Motor City brand S8871  1.39 each = 2.78
Brake Pads semi metallic WearEver brand MKD52 =21.99

Auto Zone
Left Brake hose Brakeware Brand 77187 18.99
Right Brake hose Brakeware Brand 77321 15.99 =34.98
2 cans of Brake fluid

Total 163.47

[oldwhity]

Great write up. This was a 3"front and 5" or 6"rear right?

[JBerryhill]

Yes, 3 inch drop spindles on the front and a rear flip kit lowers the rear 5 to 6 inches depending on you rear spring wear.

[oldwhity]

Cool thanks! Post some pics of the finished product if you get a chance. I'd like to see it.

[SatisTraction]

Cool thanks! Post some pics of the finished product if you get a chance. I'd like to see it.

great post and please do post up some pics.

[c0olburn3r]

Thank you for the instructions, I did it step by step like you said. Only problem I ran into mine was the spindle center hub bolt was slightly shorter, and I ended up drilling new hole for the cotter pin, which made it a little tight but the rotor still spins free hand.

I heard some grinding when I turn the wheels or when its just rolling in slow speed, so I had to grind the lower control arm ( piece of cake ) .

Mine is a 87 Silverado long bed, 2.5 spindle drop for now, 5 in back will do next weekend.

I hope this might help someone else as well. Measure your centerbolt.

[Lowhoe775]

Anyone here know what shock/strut I can use up front for my 78 c10? Lowered about 5inches and would like to use the Gabriel shocks to save some money. Something that is compatible with a beltech lowering shock just like the ones JBerryhill used for the rear application. Part number would be great thanks in advance.

[78BIG-TEN]

I used the Bell tech 3 inch spindles for 1 1\4 rotors and had to grind my control arms back about 6 inches to clear stock rallies.Kept knocking off the weights

[SkinnyG]

Anyone here know what shock/strut I can use up front for my 78 c10? Lowered about 5inches and would like to use the Gabriel shocks to save some money. Something that is compatible with a beltech lowering shock just like the ones JBerryhill used for the rear application. Part number would be great thanks in advance.

If you are lowered with spindles, just the OEM shock should be fine. 

[Lowhoe775]

Anyone here know what shock/strut I can use up front for my 78 c10? Lowered about 5inches and would like to use the Gabriel shocks to save some money. Something that is compatible with a beltech lowering shock just like the ones JBerryhill used for the rear application. Part number would be great thanks in advance.

If you are lowered with spindles, just the OEM shock should be fine.

thanks