Rebuild Gov-lok or spring for Eaton?

[SUX2BU99]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. I am filing a complaint with the BBB as we speak and we do have a consumer protection association. I did the mechanical design for their offices now that I think about it so I will contact them too. It's too bad I can't find any other ways to impact their business to a point where they would want to right their wrong.

[VileZambonie]

Get an estimate for repair from a garage.

[SUX2BU99]

That I will indeed do. I know it's going to be about $900-1000 after taxes for a new R&P, 'install kit', fluids and labor. They'll want to do bearings too but those are new. I would think the install kit would just be reuseable too but I will ask the shop about that. I sent thru my complaint last night and on the part where they ask how you want the complaint resolved I said either for that shop to fix it at no cost to me, or pay for a local shop to fix it. I also said I wasn't entirely confident that if the orignal fixed it, that the problem wouldn't happen again since I'm feeling their skills are suspect. But, my original desire was to have them just fix it at no cost so if that's what's offered, that's what I should take.

[SUX2BU99]

Well I got a phone call this morning. Dude who owns the shop I'm having this mess with said he had heard from Yukon (I talked to another person at Yukon yesterday and I think that got the ball rolling) and from the BBB. To boil it down, he kindly said to bring it in and the gears will be replaced at 0 cost to me. Sounds like Yukon and/or the BBB gave it to him strong enough that he now has a more humble attitude. I'm glad to hear this but I'm apprehensive still about their skills even though they are rear end specialists. I think they will probably give my entire rear end a thorough look to make sure nothing else is wrong (and a possible excuse to get more money out of me) but for now, the gears and anything else that might need replacing because of this, is covered.

I had it towed there this afternoon and it probalby just arrived. With baited breath and fingers crossed, I hope to have it back by tomorrow afternoon. And have it back fixed properly this time, without costing me anything more!

[Captkaos]

This is good news!

[Armor]

best of luck, i hope they get it right this time!!!

[campcrf]

wish you luck man

[SUX2BU99]

Picked it up yesterday and drove it home. They wanted us out of there and were cordial but certainly didn't want to see my face again. They replaced the R&P, all seals, and fluids. They test drove it 3 times including once on the hoist to 'bed the gears in'. I drove it home very gently, just like last time, and had a couple of min. 1 hr cool down periods on there too. Seems fine so far but I will be a little apprehensive for obvious reasons.

He had the gall to put on the invoice that I had a 'race' truck, that warranty is void if 'raced' and that 'unfortunately we will no longer be able to serve you in the future'. So get lost, basically. Nice, eh?

[fitz]

Did they use Yukon gears again? I don't know if you got all of the paperwork with your gears/posi but don't forget that Yukon recommends changing the gear oil at 500 miles and Eaton recommend to use Ford Motorsports posi additive.

[SUX2BU99]

Yep, they used Yukon again and after 500 miles I will change the oil again. I'll use Castrol Hypoy-C along with the Ford additive. I remember that part from the original Ebay auction I won when I got the rebuilt Eaton.

They also replaced my chrome cover with a plain painted steel one to disappate the heat better, at least through break-in period. I can see some validity in that. Chrome doesn't help to shed heat.

[team39763]

That's cool that the BBB got some results for you.  We tried that with a shop a few years ago, but they guy changed his number and BBB couldn't contact him so we were out of $400.

[SUX2BU99]

Okay, so I got 550 kms on the setup, which is about 350 miles. That's just the mileage I know though from when I picked it up at the shop. They said they road tested it 3 times and 'bedded the gears in'. It's been pretty quiet. Just a very little bit of howl at 50 mph but pretty small. Weather conditions have been good (not too hot) for the days that I've been driving it and have been doing no WOT runs.

Today I figured would be a little test day. I even taped it with my digital camera. I did a short WOT run from a stop and all I believe was okay, but my governor short-shifts my trans on the 1-2 at like 3500 RPM sometimes. After driving some further distance, I did another WOT run. This time a 5500 1-2 shift. Now my tranny does shift hard and the cam and heads did open up a powerband that brings it on stronger above 3500. Result is some louder howl now at 50 MPH. It's not as bad as it was the previous time around where it got rather loud and then quieted down after about a couple of minutes but left a louder level of howl.

Does this freak me out again? Yes! I was on the power not even 10 seconds. How could howl result from such a short power blast? Can gear oil heat up and break down THAT fast? I was REALLY hoping for complete peace and quiet this time. I know it's a faint hope, but I think my only hope is that an oil change will ideally keep things more quiet or at the very least, not any louder.

I might get my oil changed today before I drive it home from work. If I do I'm going with Castrol Hypoy-C and what for friction modifier? On the Ebay auction I won, the shop said 2 bottles of GM modifier yet Fitz says above that Eaton recommends Ford Motorsport additive? I emailed Eaton. Hopefully they will reply soon.

[SUX2BU99]

Just as an update to this, I got all my money back I spent at the original shop for the posi unit,3.73 gears, labor and taxes. Still out the towing costs and time lost from work but I got back what I spent there so that's great. I returned the R&P and posi to the shop.

I bought a replacement diff out of a junked 77 2wd 1/2-ton. It's a 3.40 12-bolt with a Gov-lok that was entirely rebuilt with new parts (according to the seller) about 5 years ago, then the motor threw a rod 4 years ago and everything sat.

I've since stripped it, repainted it and transferred the brakes from the diff I put in July 2008. I've got the old diff out now and the new one is ready to go in. Pretty much exact same process as I did in July 2008. It's AWESOME though to have bolts that come off nice and easy because I used all new hardware last year. Still quite a bit of work though.

[VileZambonie]

Good luck with it. Too bad you had so much bs to deal with.

[SUX2BU99]

Thanks. What should have been an enjoyable upgrade turned into a complete mess. I truly hope that in the spring when I basically want to do this over again with 3.73s and an Eaton, it goes the way it should: right the first time.

I found it interesting that I found "GM 73" cast into my old housing. My new one has "GM 77" on it, which makes sense as it was original to the 77 it came from. My old one may have been a 1st-year unit for the then-new Gov-lok which it had but was not working anymore. Kinda wish I had looked to see what the original housing that came with my truck with the 2.76 gears had cast into it for a year since I don't believe the frame to my truck is original. This would be the 3rd rear end now my truck has had in it since 2008. Original 2.76 open I took out for a 3.40 gov-lok, and now another 3.40 gov-lok.