What's the best way to get this, to stick to this?

[Skunksmash]

I need get this carpet with the plastic backing to stick to this aluminum sound deadening material. I would normally just use some strong adhesive, but i had heard that the adhesive can sometimes eat through the aluminum if it's too strong. Don't know if there is any truth to this but I figured I would ask just to be safe. Afraid I don't know too much about adhesives. Got a strip of carpet to match the molded floor carpet, to go on the back wall to protect the sound deadener.

[Chevalade]

3M spray adhesive will not bother the aluminum. But make sure you are accurate when placint the carpet, cause it is sticky. Spray the foil surface, and the back of the carpet for best results.

[Skunksmash]

Well now I am unsure of what to do. Do I place a 1/4" thick piece of wood between the sound deadener and the carpet? Or do I just try to fill in the ruffles as best I can? I don't want to go screwing screws through the back of the cab. So while it seems like the wood would help with the flatness problem, after you combine it with the carpet, I'm afraid it might eventually pull the sound deadener down. What do you guys think?

[Captkaos]

You could smooth it with some Chipboard screwed into the "flanges" at the top of the ribs.

[Skunksmash]

Here it is all glued up. I used the 3M carpet glue for automotives, and man that is some strong stuff! Anyway, here are the pics. And to anyone who might want to do the same thing: You don't have to spend a lot, or go to a whole lot of trouble to do this. I thought I needed some piece of wood or something to go over the recesses in the back of the cab. You don't. Once you line it with some of that butyl based sound deadener, (such as Dynamat or the like) it pretty much makes those recess so shallow, that the thickness of the carpet just makes the whole thing a non-issue. You just glue the carpet right to the deadener and it all looks very flat, and you cant even see or really feel the dimples. And I got 1 yard of carpet from stockinteriors and it was enough to do the back of the cab, and both of the old carpets that stick to the doors. The carpet was $49.99 shipped, and the can of glue was around $11. So you can do a lot on the cheap.

[GoatBeard]

Did you glue all the carpet down or just the verticle part? 

[devious]

looks really good & clean work

[Skunksmash]

Did you glue all the carpet down or just the vertical part? 

Just the vertical part. The other is form fitting, custom molded so there is really no need to glue it down, imo. Because, they kinda fit up underneath the kick panels, which holds them down well. You don't have to remove the kick panels, you can just sort of wedge and stuff it up under them and it turns out fine. Then you have those two little black plastic things that help hold it down, (in the pic by the vehicle's door) and also all the bolts for the seats. So i don't think it's going anywhere, and there really isn't any humps or bumps cause it was already molded to fit. After rolling out all that deadener, I don't even want to think about what a pain the carpet would have been if it wasn't molded. Not really a big deal I guess, just a lot less work for a little bit more money if you get the molded.

If you do the back of the cab, or any corners for that matter, you will be having to make that non-molded sheet curve some. It wont like doing that. However, you just take your razor knife (or whatever you are using,) and cut all the ruffles, and remove any extra material that is causing the ruffles which are at the curve where the carpet is bending. You would think that this would look ugly, but that's why you just let the floor carpet overlap it, and problem solved.

[Chevalade]

Yeah the 3M stuff is great. Hope you like it cause it will be a pain to get off if ever needed. Heat is your friend.

[treepete]

right on, looks great.
my rear panel has been dynamat forever. I think Ill head to the carpet place and nab up some and do mine.

[Skunksmash]

Ok the only thing I left out was, you will need to have some of those black speaker mounting brackets, (the ones that came with the truck) if you want to have the speakers set up like in the pics, and if you want the gluing of the carpet to be easy. With the speakers out (of course) you just spray the speaker mounting brackets with the glue. And it provides enough of a flat surface for the carpet to stick to. Then cut your speaker holes after the glue has had plenty of time to dry. If you don't have something in place, you will be doing more cutting and curving of the carpet to get it to fill in those large recesses where the brackets used to be. You could always go to the junkyard and get some more for $5, I'm sure. I even thought about welding up the holes so the carpet would stick even better. Since 4x10 is a fading speaker size, and a component system is the way to go these days.

Also, for ease of installation of the sheet of carpet, take your measuring tape and find the dead center, and decide which end of the carpet is going to be the top, which will be near your rear window glass. Then at the dead center, take a sharpie and draw an arrow pointing up, on the back of the carpet. Make sure you get it right at the center. Then, on the back of the cab where the carpet will be meeting, draw an arrow pointing down and match them up, and glue. Helps to have another set of hands, as the carpet is long and will be trying to fold over the whole time you are trying to hold/glue it up. The use of the drawn arrows will ensure that you do not have too little on one side, and too much on another. You would think you could just eyeball it, but it's tough with all the curves in the cab.

[GoatBeard]

Can you step back a little and take some more pictures.  I'd like to see how the tan goes with the red.  When I redid mine I was thinking about going tan -- I think it looks really good with the red!

[Grover 1]

That really came out nice!  Thanks for the pics.