Clutch Pedals help!

[Twisted Inc.]

hi all, this is my first post here! i'm hoping you all can help me, i have an 87 1-ton chevy SRW 4x4, i'm converting from an automatic to a standard transmission....my problem is that i cannot find a clutch pedal set up from an 85-87 chevy that would be hydraulic clutch! is there a huge difference from the actual clutch bracket and pedal assembly on a linkage style clutch to a hydraulic clutch? or can i bolt the linkang clutch pedal and bracket up and then just make it work with the hydraulic clutch? or do i need to stay on the hunt until i can find the hydraulic style pedals?    second question is there any place that i can order the pedal assembly i need? beside ebay?......

           thanks for any and all help!

[joesgarage71]

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcrc.htm

[Twisted Inc.]

thanks for the reply but sadly i didn't see anything on novak conversions that would help me.....what im asking is will 73-84 clutch pedal assembly fit in an 85-87 cab......just the pedals themselves?

[Captkaos]

Yes the pedal assembly will fit will fit.  You need everything that is attached to it.

[Twisted Inc.]

thank you!

[Blazin]

The juice, and linkage pedals will interchange with each other. The bracket is the same except the studs that go through the firewall and hold the vacuum booster on are metric starting in 82 ish. I did a bit of fabrication, and used a linkage style pedal to make work with a juice clutch years back.

[1980c10]

i changed from a manual to a hydro clutch set up on my s10. i just made my own bracket to hold everything where it needed to be. it was pretty easy, never had to switch pedals.  i imagine it could be done this way with any truck. probably quicker than trying to find pedals and all. cheaper too.

[Twisted Inc.]

i'm going from auto to standard shift, so i don't have any pedals to make work...lol i was in a panic because being that that truck is an 87 i figured i would have to run the hydraulic clutch pedals.....and after looking for a week or so i couldnt find any but i of course found a bunch of linkage style pedals....so if they would bolt into the cab of the truck i was going to do a little fabbing and just make them work......but i made one last phone call to a buddy of mine that pulls an 87 crew cab chevy and i remembered him telling me that he had to change his truck to linkage because the hydrualic wouldnt push his double disk clutch, asked him if he still had his old pedals and sure enough he hooked me up! so i'm in good shape now...thanks again fella's

[Bunkerbuilder]

Since this is an information reference I see nothing wrong with adding more info here.

Clutch and Brake Pedals when taken from a donor truck and added to a truck that had an automatic present with issues that you most likely weren't even aware you would have.

#1 the pin size on the brake pedal that connects to the brake master cylinder pushrod.

On a 1/2  ton and 3/4 ton the pin is smaller than on a 1 ton, that part many of you veterans mostly knew but did you also know that there is a difference in the brake pedals center to center distance from the pivot to the pushrod pin ?

So if you have a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck and you happen to find a 1 ton donor pedal setup you have a issue.

You would need to press your original brake pedal pushrod pin out and press it into the donor brake pedal arm.
If you have a 1 ton truck and find your donor pedal setup you have a slight issue bit not as much as the first situation. this situation would only require a bushing made and pressed onto the smaller pin.



The photo below should help.
Keep in mind the brake pedals also have gm part numbers stamped into them.

And also there are it seems more than just two part numbers for the pedals IE not just one part # for the 1/2 & 3/4 ton pedal and another for the 2 ton pedal.

I found a Pedal from a 1985 1/2 ton Chevy 4wd truck and the number on the brake pedal is 347459 But there are others as well.

I added a bushing to compensate for the thinner pin but later in my project found out about the pivot to pin distance difference.

[Captkaos]

Bunkerbuilder repost the above as a reply and i will add this to the tech section.

[Engineer]

Hmmmm.....

I have two sets of clutch pedals that were salvaged out of 1985 year model trucks with the hydraulic clutch. One set is from a 1985 K10, the other set is from a 1985 C30. I'll be able to compare the two sets I have. If I had to guess I would bet the reason for the difference is not 1-ton versus half ton but actually hydroboost versus vacuum boost brakes.

If I get time later today I'll look at my two sets so we can add to the information posted here.

[roundhouse]

I converted a linkage pedal to a hydro pedal
Just drilled a hole in the pedal where the hydro cylinder arm matches to the pedal and bolted the master cylinder arm to the pedal


Also if your clutch pedal is totally worn out at the top pivot , past where new bushings will fix it
You can use the brake pedal from an automatic truck,
Lay your old worn out clutch pedal next to the automatic brake pedal and you will see that if you flip the brake pedal over the pivot then is exactly the same as the clutch

And the clutch pedal is actually two parts booted together
Cut off the brake pedal at the right spot and drill two holes and you can bolt the bottom half of the factory clutch pedal to the top half of the brake pedal to create a new clutch pedal with a nice pivot on the top


Have fun getting the pivot pin out of the top


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bunkerbuilder]

As to removing the (welded clutch) pivot pin (mine was very warn) I used a hole saw of the correct ID and cut thru the weld enough so it pressed out with ease.

[Captkaos]

Bunkerbuilder.  Moved the "copy" to the tech section here:

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34076.0

Let a mod or myself know if you add more pics, and Mods feel free to add to this post in the Tech section.