454-rebuild

[malibu795]

Do you have the casting # on the heads?

Yes, #353049 for both.

good head and the flow pretty good.. for stock

stock valves are 2.065/1.72 havent cc'd the chamber.. do that monday. iirc the are between 119-122cc

i am in the middle of rebuilding my 454..

.060 over
speed pro 10.5cc dome
.020 in the hole
i am shooting for 9:1 compression
put new guides opened the exhaust up to 1.88
camshaft im running a 208/214@050" .475/.500
low rise dual plane intake and old edelbrock 0396(before the preformer came out)

your edelbrock camshaft should put you close to 375hp/500tq at the FW @ 9:1
comp cams sells a spacer that is drop in to replace the rotaters its ~30.00$

this is a dyno sheet of my BBC before it died.. with ~8:1cr edelbrok 0396 intake, headers dual 2.5", 208/214* cam and ignition sytem stock 049 casting heads and a 600cfm preformer carb.. the dip in the graph @ ~2400rpm is the secondaries opening up

[joesgarage71]

Just took a look at the #8 piston.  Only number stamped on top was an 8, like what is stamped on the rod and cap.  So that tells me that it's stock, I guess.

 Not stock, someone has had that motor apart before. GM does not stamp the rods with numbers. You might have .030 over already. The only stamps should be there are on the pan rail and they use letters.
 Steve

[bake315]

Not stock, someone has had that motor apart before. GM does not stamp the rods with numbers. You might have .030 over already. The only stamps should be there are on the pan rail and they use letters.
 Steve

I see.  That's a little disappointing, though in makes sense in some respects.  One question though - when I measured (from the top of the cylinder) the bore size, I got something on the order of 4.2485.  If stock bore on a 454 is 4.25, is it reasonable that someone simply installed new pistons and rings at some point, without actually re-boring?  Granted my caliper was only a $25 digital from the local auto parts, but still....?

[VileZambonie]

Your caliper is not as accurate as it needs to be for machining but will get you in the ball park. Measuring at the top of the cylinder is not where you want to measure either due to ridge wear. It's obviously standard bore. You can buy telescoping gauges dirt cheap and get better measurements.

Many factory engines ARE numbered especially if there was an error in the assembly process which required the engine to be pulled aside and torn down again. I've seen factory engines that had only one oversize piston. So not to discredit you joe but you will find factory installed unmolested numbered chevy engines. I'm not saying that is what you have there bake but if someone was in there they kept it standard bore nevertheless.

[bake315]

Okay.  Thanks for the help so far guys.  So, I'll pick up a set of those eliminators today.  Can I continue with the stock valves & springs, or do I need to account for the thickness of the eliminators?

[eventhorizon66]

The whole purpose of the eliminators is to take up the missing thickness of the rotators.  Basically, they are just thick shims.

[bake315]

The whole purpose of the eliminators is to take up the missing thickness of the rotators.  Basically, they are just thick shims.

OK, good.  Thanks!

[bake315]

Arrrgh!  Nobody has the pistons I want.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRW-L2399F40/

[bake315]

Okay, I think I've settled on a rebuild kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-CSMHP771-311/


I'm only going .030 over, but only because it was going to literally be Christmas before I could get the .040 kit - maybe.

Can anyone tell me what the volume in cc's my stock heads are?

[malibu795]

Okay, I think I've settled on a rebuild kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-CSMHP771-311/


I'm only going .030 over, but only because it was going to literally be Christmas before I could get the .040 kit - maybe.

Can anyone tell me what the volume in cc's my stock heads are?

unless you planing on getting your crank turned that the wrong kit...

and it have 50cc domes which is effing huge..and barely pump gas compression..

10-20cc dome will land you 9-10:1 compression... 049 head run a 120cc chamber

im running a 10.5cc dome and i am are 9:1 with same heads

[bake315]

Okay, I think I've settled on a rebuild kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-CSMHP771-311/


I'm only going .030 over, but only because it was going to literally be Christmas before I could get the .040 kit - maybe.

Can anyone tell me what the volume in cc's my stock heads are?

unless you planing on getting your crank turned that the wrong kit...

and it have 50cc domes which is effing huge..and barely pump gas compression..

10-20cc dome will land you 9-10:1 compression... 049 head run a 120cc chamber

im running a 10.5cc dome and i am are 9:1 with same heads

Thanks, Adam.  This is exactly what I needed to know.  I'm no mechanic, and this is my very first build, so I'm needing to know these details. 

So you're saying that with my chamber size, I need to keep the dome under a 20cc maximum in order to have a engine that is practical for the street, is that right?

The crank will be headed to the shop with the block and the pistons, so I'd imagine that he'll do what needs doing based on what I give him.

[malibu795]

under 20cc dome yes. flat top will run between 8-8.5:1

talk to the machinist. let him know what you are after. and he will know best route for you... or let him know your budget limit and what type of service its goign to be.. what rpm will it be running at... then you can prioritis the machine work... bore, deck, main bore,reconditioning the rods, decking the heads is an option as well. it will also take a couple cc out of the chamber size

id you do get the block decked. only take off enough to clean the surface up to get it in spec. another thing is they "should" do is squaring the block.. this is cutting the deck so it is parrellel to the crank axis and both are 90* from each other.

if you have the rods recon'd... it is a good idea to to get new rod bolts.. mainly arp..  ~60.00 buck is cheap insurace to make sure the rods bolts dont break. when you running them..

heads... stock is 2.065/1.725..  common upgrade is 2.19/1.88 def check valve guide as well. i left my intake 2.065 and upgrade to 1.88 inthe exhaust.

.. if you like answer these question and you will have a basic idea of what your after and can afford..
1. budget
2. what is the duty for the engine... towing. street strip?
3. how much power you want?

[bake315]

under 20cc dome yes. flat top will run between 8-8.5:1

talk to the machinist. let him know what you are after. and he will know best route for you... or let him know your budget limit and what type of service its goign to be.. what rpm will it be running at... then you can prioritis the machine work... bore, deck, main bore,reconditioning the rods, decking the heads is an option as well. it will also take a couple cc out of the chamber size

id you do get the block decked. only take off enough to clean the surface up to get it in spec. another thing is they "should" do is squaring the block.. this is cutting the deck so it is parrellel to the crank axis and both are 90* from each other.

if you have the rods recon'd... it is a good idea to to get new rod bolts.. mainly arp..  ~60.00 buck is cheap insurace to make sure the rods bolts dont break. when you running them..

heads... stock is 2.065/1.725..  common upgrade is 2.19/1.88 def check valve guide as well. i left my intake 2.065 and upgrade to 1.88 inthe exhaust.

.. if you like answer these question and you will have a basic idea of what your after and can afford..
1. budget
2. what is the duty for the engine... towing. street strip?
3. how much power you want?

Good stuff.  Mostly this truck is going to be a fun cruiser, that I may want to "horse around" a bit with sometimes, but there will be times when it may be needed to pull a boat, travel trailer, whatever...  So I'll plan on that.  I will be getting the rods reconditioned, so thanks for the tip on the bolts.  As far as the budget goes, I don't want to break my bank, but I don't want to cut corners either, so it will be whatever it ends up being.  There's still the rest of the truck to consider, so I don't want to drag this out too far, financially.

Are you running forged, or hyperuetectic pistons?

[bake315]

OK, so I've spent the afternoon trying to determine how best to go at this.  Here's what I've come up with:

According to what malibu795 is telling me (huge help), my 049 heads have 120cc chambers.  If I run a -20cc domed piston, my compression ratio should run somewhere in the neighborhood of 10:1.

According to Summit, the rebuild kit that utilizes -25.7cc domed pistons claims an approximate compression ratio of 9.78:1 with 116.9cc chambers.

Therefore, if I use this kit with 120cc heads, wouldn't that leave me really more or less in the same 10:1 ballpark?

[VileZambonie]

How bout http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRW-L2349F30/