Author Topic: Replacing Cab Mounts  (Read 5103 times)

Offline krafty33

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Replacing Cab Mounts
« on: December 13, 2009, 05:47:52 pm »
I amlooking at doing this. Where is a good place to jack up w/o distorting anything.
-Thanks

Offline beastie_3

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Re: Replacing Cab Mounts
« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2009, 09:11:26 pm »
If you use a floor jack, use a 2x4 or 4x4 6"+ long on top of the jack plate to spread the load on the cab and bed and do it slowly.

Offline mrboyy17

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Re: Replacing Cab Mounts
« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2010, 01:52:23 pm »
check out this link  :)
great info for what your trying to do i think.  have fun  i need to do this to mine too so let me know how it goes
mark

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/exterior/cab_bushings.htm

Offline Blazin

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Re: Replacing Cab Mounts
« Reply #3 on: January 10, 2010, 11:54:14 pm »
Why would you need to lift the bed too when replacing the cab mounts? As long as your rockers aren't rusty use a 2x4 and a floor jack under them. I would remove all the bolts first before lifting it.
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Offline beastie_3

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Re: Replacing Cab Mounts
« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2010, 12:36:33 am »
For some reason I was thinking about a body lift rather than CAB mounts. No need to lift the bed.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Replacing Cab Mounts
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2010, 10:39:28 am »
I have a thread on here somewhere when replaced my bushings last summer. That write-up posted above is pretty much as I did mine. I had to loosen the shifter rod at my transmission where it connects though. I had to lift my cab up fairly high to be able to pull the bolts out of the top of the bushing. Perhaps that link describes a better way to do it then I did.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.