por-15

[87OldYeller]

I am about to order a gallon of por-15 do I also need to order the gallon of metal read/cleaner or will any old degrease work?

[87OldYeller]

I dont guess you can spray this stuff can you, looking it up but it looks to all be brush on.

[smitty77]

I dont guess you can spray this stuff can you, looking it up but it looks to all be brush on.

I read somewhere it can be sprayed but they recommend that you use their thinner.
I brushed mine on, but the frame was "textured" anyway and it actually helped smooth things out quite a bit.  All of the brush marks smooth out on their own.  If I had a sand blasted frame I'd think about spraying it but I was really impressed with how the brush-on came out and I used $1.29 brushes from a surplus/discount store.  Didn't feel too bad about making them single-use at that price.

[87OldYeller]

yea brushes are not a big deal.. i am gonna have to do my frame in parts, like do part of the frame let it sit then may have to come back later and do some more.. i really do not want to have to pull the engine anytime soon as i just put it all back together but i was in a pinch. i will have to be driving it and working as much as i can on it.

[bobcooter]

I'd be careful ordering that much in a one gallon can. I've used the pint cans a few times and if you don't use the entire can it dries up pretty fast inside the can. I had put the lids on tight but it still dried up. It's great paint. The old (non-ultra) Dawn dishwashing liquid is about as good a degreaser as anything I've seen on the market and it's $1.00 a bottle at Dollar General.

[Captkaos]

You don't need a gallon.  I ordered a pint and sprayed my whole frame and still had some left over.  I sprayed it straight out of the can.  Don't thin it.
On the cleaner I would only get it if you are taking it down to bare metal.  If it is rusted I would scuff it up and paint right over it.

To make it last, after you open it, put plastic wrap under the lid and keep the lip clean.  I have used one can several times.

I also top coated my frame with Gloss enamel black as por is uv sensative.

[Lucky73]

Thats good to know cause I was going to thin mine.any particular gun that is recommended?

[87OldYeller]

OK well i plan on doing the frame, the floor boards, bottom of the cab tin inner fender wells and the inside of the fender, radiator core support, and the bed floor(I have a steel floor) the under side of the bed and the inside of the rear fenders and the under side of the steps, *L* pretty well anything that is not going to be painted with reg paint. bumper brackets, i mean everything..

[bobcooter]

"To make it last, after you open it, put plastic wrap under the lid and keep the lip clean." Good idea Capt. I'll try that next time.

[Captkaos]

If you are doing that much, get 2 pints.  I never get the large can I always get the smaller ones.  That way I don't have to open it until I have to.

[PRattenbury]

In addition to the plastic wrap, put vaseline in between the can and the plastic. I find it helps. But to be honest, I find brush on Rust-Oleum to be more durable and a whole lot less expensive than POR-15.

[Captkaos]

Chassis Saver is Cheaper and just a good, I have used both.

[87OldYeller]

Hey thanks for all the info..

[PRattenbury]

X2 on the Chassis Saver. Good Stuff. Much less prep work required to use it.

[1983stepside]

i used por 15 on my frame, rear end, leaf springs and front control arms, and i used maybe half of a quart on all of that, this stuff goes a long way, its thin but strong, you deff need the marine clean, and metal prep for it to turn out, and id get a spout you can just clip to the rim of the can to keep the lip clean so you can seal the can with lid again, the plastic wrap idea really dosent work that well, i did that with a can i had for a side job i did, and it didnt raly seal and what was left in the can got hard as a rock, so save your self some money in the long run and buy a spout from the company there like 2-5 bucks