29 or 30" tall tire and control arms

[altereddezignz]

hey guys, curious can i lay rocker or atleast pinch weld with a 30" tall tire. Aslo do i need control arms? and or drop spindles?

[Captkaos]

The only way you are going to lay rocker or pinch welds is serious suspension modification (porterbuilt, chopped crossmember, or frame Z) in addition to lowering components and Air suspension.

[altereddezignz]

i guess i should be more specific. i am bagging the truck and plan on zing the frame. lol sorry about that guys... just curious about the mods or what tire sizes other people are running. i am running a 4.56 rear end gear so i was just curious about the tire sizes. i will be running and 20" wheel.

[Captkaos]

if you cut enough out of one you can lay rocker on 33" tires.  Problem is you are going to have to cut your frame under the cab to even get to the pinch weld.  It is lower.  I personally would buy a crossmember instead, you don't have to worry about welding anything and if you ever decided to get rid of it, you can just bolt stock stuff back on.  In addition porterbuilts are setup with better suspension geometry...

[altereddezignz]

Yeah a bolt on crossmember would be nice but not at all in my budget. I plan on running a 29-30 inch tire more like a 29. I have found a new set of upper and lower control arms loweres are tubular with bag seat. and drop spindles for 200 were installed on truck but motor was never finished and they were only pushed around. Truck was static lowered also. So i think i got a deal ont them. I mean dont get me wrong i can always run a taller tire in the rear but i would like to b able to rotate them. Also looking for a little help on the rear setup but i dont know if i need to ask in here or in the suspension section?

Thank you guys.

also i have read of people using the stock front arms and spindles? i think since im getting a good deal on the aftermarket stuff ill run all that to help with alignment issues i hope.

Thank you guys so much so far for all of your help.

[Captkaos]

I have done these a couple of ways to get them low.  I used to build/sell chopped crossmembers, and have lowered a dozen of them.
Trust me when I say the amount of work and headache and money that is going to be involved in Zing one is going to be more expensive than buying a Porterbuilt setup,

This included the cutting, aligning tacking and welding required for both end of the crossmember along with cutting of the framerails and the modifications to the transmission tunnel where it will need to be moved up and made with sheetmetal and the removal of your AC box.  With a 4" Z you will be on the rockers, but 30" tires will be RIGHT under your hood sheetmetal.

As for this whole post I can move it all to suspension as that is really what you are asking about so ask away.
For the rear, I would assume you would would want to build that also? or buy it?

[altereddezignz]

Well here is the deal. I purchased a comlete kit for a 94 yukon i was going to build. A triangulated 4 link, all bags, air management system, lines, drop spindles, cups. The only thing i need to buy is a notch for the rear. But i am being told to do a bag over bar So i will probable order the bars and brackets from suicide doors. They are not that expensive.  No on the other hand 2000$ for a dropmember is very expensive for my budget. I have the time. I have the harware and equipment to do the Z. Just need to purchase some material. I understand it is time consuming but not really all that complicated. I will ahve 3-500$ in the Z and new sheetmetal for the hump. So i am not sure what way to go at the moment to be honest..I think i am gonna go with a 4.10 gear so i can run like a 27-28 inch tall tire in the front. But i could always run a shorter tire in the fron an da taller one in the rear but i also like b n able to rotate my tires as needed so i am not replacing them often.

[dv8customs]

If you have the skills then go with the Z and shortened frame. Cost is very low and it's relatively straight forward to do.

[altereddezignz]

The one question i do ahve about the Z is when it is done in a staight up and down cut it sets front wheels back a little bit, or looks like it does. Could i just not do a slanted cut leaning torwd the front just a little to make up for it?

[dv8customs]

Yes, you can cut it at an angle to move the wheels forward as much as you want. Just note that you will need to move your motor mounts back that same amount to avoid any driveshaft length trouble.

[altereddezignz]

I think from the looks of them it is only about 1/2 inch or so but i dont wann get into clearence issues with the firewall either.