Need advice on broken-off steering wheel puller bolt

[got2haul]

I need some advice...

I bought a nice, newer model and smaller diameter GM Truck steering wheel on eBay this past weekend.  It arrived yesterday and I set out to install it last night.  I've pulled the existing steering wheel before to make it easier to work on the dash and install the stereo using a cheap puller I bought at the local parts store.  I thought I'd have no problem replacing the wheel, but alas, this is not to be the case.

One of the set bolts broke off in the wheel's hub while I was tightening it down.  I thought that it was really nothing more than an inconvenience, so I went to the local parts store and bought an easy-out screw extractor, making sure to get the correct size for this diameter bolt.  I also rented a better steering wheel puller while I was there.  I drilled the hole nearly all the way through the remainder of the broken bolt still stuck in the hub and proceded to twist in the extractor just like I've done on other broken bolts in the past.  The bolt just didn't want to budge, like it was cross-threaded or something, although I just don't see how that could have happened, when suddenly the extractor broke off in the bolt.  So I thought I'd just drill out the extractor and try again with a slightly larger one; however, my bits made barely a dent in the extractor.  I tried several bits smaller and larger, but could not make any headway on the bolt with the broken extractor in it.  It's probably hardened steel.

Not sure what to do.  There are only two bolts that anchor the puller to the steering wheel hub and as described above -- one is broken off in the hub.  Are there any particular type of bits that will drill out the extractor (i.e. Cobalt, Titanium, etc.)?  Any advice?

[Toolmaster]

Do you have room to drill and tap 2 more holes, make sure they are centered with the shaft and use the proper
drill size with the tap. Just move over about 3/8" from each factory hole.  If you have room !!!

[got2haul]

Do you have room to drill and tap 2 more holes, make sure they are centered with the shaft and use the proper
drill size with the tap. Just move over about 3/8" from each factory hole.  If you have room !!!

Now THERE's an idea that hadn't occurred to me!  Thanks.  I'll take a look at that tonight to see if it's do-able.  I've been reading a lot about drilling hardened steel and if it isn't possibile to drill and tap additional holes as Toolmaster suggests, I guess I'll be buying several new drill bits this weekend to continue trying to drill out the EZ-out.  Cobalt bits, C1150 bits, D200 bits, and solid carbide bits (listed in order of their hardness) are what I've found that are recommended to tackle the job.

[joesgarage71]

 Weld a bolt to it

[zieg85]

I never use a puller myself.  I loosen the nut and back it out so it is flush with the end of the shaft.  I lay a 3 lb. hammer against it and use a ball peen to hit the 3 lb with my knee against the bottom while pulling the top toward me.  One or two slight taps and it comes right off.  Good Luck.

[got2haul]

Well, I managed to get the steering wheel off.  I picked up a pilot-point cobalt drill bit and long with some cutting oil and slow drilling speeds, and allowing frequent cooling while drilling, I was able to drill out the EZ-out.  After it was gone, I tried using a large EZ-out I had on hand, but it wouldn’t budge the broken bolt either.  I didn’t want to risk breaking it off as well, so I drilled progressively large holes until nearly all the bolt was gone.  It began to move in the hole, so using a pair of needle-nose pliers, I got it out.  I re-tapped the hole, and then used a good puller I got from the local parts store to get the steering wheel off.

I gained another half-inch clearance above my legs with the smaller-diameter steering wheel.  I now have a little more room between my legs and the bottom of the steering wheel than I did before I started.   Combined with the new seat angle, the driving position is a little more comfortable.  The red letters in the steering wheel hub compliment the red paint in the interior, too.

Here are a before and after picture of the steering wheel swap:

Before:



After:

[zieg85]

Wheel looks a lot better IMO

[choptop]

Im about to put the same wheel on my red truck. How did you hook up the horn?

[got2haul]

Im about to put the same wheel on my red truck. How did you hook up the horn?

I had a problem with the horn and it's currently not hooked up.  My wheel came with the factory horn wire, complete with ends, so it was very easy to figure out how to hook it up; HOWEVER, I hooked it up and then reinstalled the battery ground and tested it.  It worked fine.  I then pulled the steering wheel down to measure the clearance from the seat, and the horn came on and wouldn't shut off.  I pulled the horn cap, thinking that would shut it off, but it didn't.  I had to disconnect the battery ground again to get it to shut off.  I ran out of time, so i couldn't troubleshoot the issue.

The factory wire that came with my wheel has one spring-loaded end and one female spade connector on the other end.  I removed the original spring-loaded horn contact from it's hole and inserted the new one, twisting to lock it in place (it's a groove and a nipple connection).  The spade-end is then hooked to its mate on the center hub cover.  Now, since my horn came on unexpectedly and stayed on, I don't know if this is the correct way to do it, but it sure seems like it should be.

[ccz145a]

Im about to put the same wheel on my red truck. How did you hook up the horn?

I had a problem with the horn and it's currently not hooked up.  My wheel came with the factory horn wire, complete with ends, so it was very easy to figure out how to hook it up; HOWEVER, I hooked it up and then reinstalled the battery ground and tested it.  It worked fine.  I then pulled the steering wheel down to measure the clearance from the seat, and the horn came on and wouldn't shut off.  I pulled the horn cap, thinking that would shut it off, but it didn't.  I had to disconnect the battery ground again to get it to shut off.  I ran out of time, so i couldn't troubleshoot the issue.

The factory wire that came with my wheel has one spring-loaded end and one female spade connector on the other end.  I removed the original spring-loaded horn contact from it's hole and inserted the new one, twisting to lock it in place (it's a groove and a nipple connection).  The spade-end is then hooked to its mate on the center hub cover.  Now, since my horn came on unexpectedly and stayed on, I don't know if this is the correct way to do it, but it sure seems like it should be.

That's how I did mine... it worked out fine.

[choptop]

Thanks, Ill give it a try.