Author Topic: 350 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement  (Read 8259 times)

Offline TxFiddler

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350 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
« on: May 07, 2010, 11:51:38 pm »
Ok, so I got the passenger side replaced with no problems.  Are there any short cuts or someone please tell me what to remove to replace the driver's side gasket on my 1980 350?  Does the A/C need to be removed?  Seems like the back of the cover is hitting the hard vacuum line from the back of the carb to the brake booster.  Please advise.  Going to do rear main (2 piece).  Will try to post pics to help others out.
80 C10 2wd / 427 BigBlock / 700R4 / 3:42 Eaton Posi LSD / 770 cfm Holley Street Avenger / Doug's Headers / MSD ProBillet Distributor / Champion 3 row Radiator

Offline Lt.Del

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Re: 350 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2010, 09:49:16 am »
Some things around the valve cover can simply be pushed to the side.  The a/c compressor (long style) if i recall, does have to be pushed to the side, but it is only a couple of bolts...don't take the hoses loose.

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Going to do rear main (2 piece).  Will try to post pics to help others out.

you mean like this?





 



 


  


  

Offline Grover 1

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Re: 350 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2010, 10:48:35 am »
Great pics Sgt.  Was that a pain to do?
1978 C-10 SWB
1986 K-10 SWB
1975 C-10 SWB

And here I sit so patiently
Waiting to find out what price
You have to pay to get out of
Going through all these things twice - bd

Offline TxFiddler

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Re: 350 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2010, 06:41:24 pm »
Very helpful.  I guess there's no need for me to take pics now.  Thanks for the great help.  I might take some anyhow, just for my archives. 
80 C10 2wd / 427 BigBlock / 700R4 / 3:42 Eaton Posi LSD / 770 cfm Holley Street Avenger / Doug's Headers / MSD ProBillet Distributor / Champion 3 row Radiator

Offline Lt.Del

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Re: 350 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2010, 07:12:06 pm »
i did this a few years ago....i take pics of everything i do w/ these trucks.  Like, installing balljoints, installing my 383 stroker engine, installing my swaybar...etc...

http://www.delbridge.net/balljoints


http://www.delbridge.net/install


http://www.delbridge.net/sway

Quote
Great pics Sgt.  Was that a pain to do?
thanks.  No, not a pain at all, except, for oil dripping on you during the whole ordeal.  A word from the wise, drop the pan and let the crank and rods drip their oil for an hour or two before crawling under there to work on the rear main or oil pump.  It was really very easy...just remember to offset the two halves of the seal to decrease the odds of a leak--i dont depict it on my pics, but, push the top half to where a half an inch or so comes down below the flush part of the block and raise the cap half up the same amt on opposite side.  A small dab of sealer on the ends won't hurt if it is a SMALL dab.