Engine Rebuild is Coming Soon

[78 Chevyrado]

Makes perfect sense.  Thanks!

So I'll get a vortec intake and the roller cam heads.   I have been wanting a bit bigger cam, and after listening to that video, I'm pondering moving up to the next step, XR270HR.   I'd love that one, because it has a nice idle.  Plus the power in comps dyno charts isnt too different from the XR264.  I'd like my powerband up between 2000-4000, because off-idle max power is pretty useless since I never floor it from a standstill with a load.  Where I need power the most is on the freeway at 70mph for passing, etc.   Even when I get my 700r4, I'll still be towing in 3rd gear if it's heavy so at 70, I'll be turning around 3000rpms no matter what tranny.  Plus I'd really like to get a bit of idle to it, I've been jonesing for that for like 6 years since I sold my mustang, and it had a big rumpity rump cam.  

This is the XR270HR cam in a camaro 358.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFSXNYRL6as

I'm actually fairly happy with my trucks power like it is, except for now and then, so basically any cam i get will be a huge improvement over stock.   So if I lose a little bit of torque in the new engine  to have that sexy idle, I'm for it.

[eventhorizon66]

The XE270HR should be a better choice.  It'll still be very streetable with a good idle, but have better midrange/top-end power.  If I were choosing between the two, I'd go with the 270 cam hands down, especially if you'll have 9:1 or better compression.

Please keep us posted.  I am officially very interested in this build.  Do you think you might have it dyno'd?

[78 Chevyrado]

The XE270HR should be a better choice.  It'll still be very streetable with a good idle, but have better midrange/top-end power.  If I were choosing between the two, I'd go with the 270 cam hands down, especially if you'll have 9:1 or better compression.

Please keep us posted.  I am officially very interested in this build.  Do you think you might have it dyno'd?

The 270 is the cam I want, but I chose the 264 because I didn't want to go too big.  I've never messed with a roller cam before, so the specs I know for flat tappets apparently are useless.   i think the equivalent flat tappet to the xr270 roller is an xe262, and the flat tappet 262 sounds real lopey at idle even in a 383.  so ill be learning as I go.

I want to have it dynoed, if I can find a place to do it.  I'd love to final tune it on one.  if there are places around here they're well hidden.  I'm going to call year one and see if they do it, since they have a hot rod shop on premises.  

Here's the rebuild kit I picked to go with the 64cc RHS heads...  
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-MHP133-311/
says it should end up approx 9.6 or 9.7 to 1 comp ratio with 64cc heads.  Pistons are Dish, with two valve reliefs 12cc.  The exact part number may change depending on what undersize bearings I end up with.
  
I got to looking at how much more a fill up of premium would cost over 87 octane and its only $12 per 40 gallons, so I can swing that.  

Also thinking (depending on piston to valve clearance)  I might go with 1.6 rockers instead of the 1.52 since the RHS heads have a max lift of .600  I am getting new rockers.  Haven't decided between full rollers or just roller tip.

[78 Chevyrado]

First baby step today, I ordered a new distributor.  I'm on the way!  

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350345800516&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2&category=33690

[beastie_3]

Let me know how you like the new distributor, I want to convert my engine back to HEI.

[78 Chevyrado]

Let me know how you like the new distributor, I want to convert my engine back to HEI.

I'm not gonna be using it for a while, but just looking at it it sure does look nice!   Seems to be HIGH quality, and well put together.   It's complete from one end to the other including the intake gasket.   Can't beat that with a stick.    

[beastie_3]

Sweet, so looks like all I will need is a new power and tach wire.

[78 Chevyrado]

i been figuring up machine shop costs, and upgrading my crank and or rods a little, and for about the same price, I can get this shortblock, all assembled ready to go.  also it should give me a 9.1:1 comp ratio, so basically its everything I wanted for my shortblock.  What do you guys think of this one?  anybody have any problems out of them?  anything to watch out for?

its GM 12556121 short block
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=184534

[bobcooter]

  That distributor bothers me. It sure seems like an awful lot of talking to sell a distributor for half of what a lower priced new one costs anywhere else. It's been my experience over the years that anyone who talks that much about a deal that's already unbelievable is full of it. Sounds to me like they can't even give em away.
  Have you considered checking Northern Auto Parts for your rebuild kit? They will put together any combination  of parts you want and have great prices. You can also upgrade several parts on their kits such as bearings, timing chains, gaskets, pistons, rings and cams to name a few. Just my 2 cents worth. Good luck.

[jaredts]

I wouldn't have a problem using a GM Performance Parts small block, but there are plenty of people out there saying they are junk because they are made in Mexico.  I've got a similar decision in my future and will definitely consider this route.  It is attractive when you consider the cost of machine work and assembly to recondition one.  I see a new GM short block as less of a risk than a rebuilt one for the same or less money.  I have no actual experience with them, though.

[eventhorizon66]

i been figuring up machine shop costs, and upgrading my crank and or rods a little, and for about the same price, I can get this shortblock, all assembled ready to go.  also it should give me a 9.1:1 comp ratio, so basically its everything I wanted for my shortblock.  What do you guys think of this one?  anybody have any problems out of them?  anything to watch out for?

its GM 12556121 short block
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=184534

If I were building an engine, I'd use a short block that was either prep'd and assembled by a performance/race engine shop or prep'd by a top notch machine shop and assembled by me.  That GM short block will be reliable, but it represents a performance compromise for convenience sake.  For example, the pistons and 0.025" deck height will compromise quench and compression, which costs some power and efficiency.  The turning friction of that shortblock will undoubtedly be higher than a professionally prep'd assembly.  So on and so on.

If your goal is minimizing hassle and you don't mind leaving some performance on the table, then OK.  But there are probably much better deals out there on assembled short blocks.  Keep in mind, there is actually some merit in using a rebuilt block over a "green" block.

[Prong]

If you don't go the shortblock route, why not just find a decent late 80's block that has provisions for a roller cam? That's what I did and I had my guy reuse my World heads with shorter pushrods and a GM HT383 roller cam in it. The pistons are GM performance parts with a 9:1 CR. It runs great on 87 octane and if I'm careful I can get 15mpg repeatedly--and this is in a 79 K10.

[78 Chevyrado]

All the machine work and certain parts I want cost about the same as the shortblock, and I know nothing about the few machine shops around here, so I'm gonna try to go with the gm short block.  There's enough of them around with reviews to have a good idea what ill be getting.   I know a few people who used it and they couldnt be happier.  and itll save me some trouble and its convinent.  I spent more on the paintjob than its prolly worth, cuz i had them do all kinds of little things that dont  really matter, but i liked em.   I'm gonna spend more on this engine than I should, i know it now, but Im in it for the enjoyment.   see how my combo comes out and all that.   plus i want it to turn at least 5500RPM.  I dont need it to really, but nothing sounds like a smallblock wound out over 4500.  there's just a lot that goes into a shortblock that has to go together properly and im not sure enough of myself to properly build it the first time, and i dunno if i can take the machinists word on what parts i need.   Im bad at trusting mechanic type people because every single time i do, i get screwed over.   The last one tried to tell me i needed a new bumper on my focus when it was really an engine mount...  haha.

[Roughshod]

Did you notice that that GM short block does not have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump? So with that short block you will have to run an electric fuel pump. This one should work if you are looking to keep the mechanical fuel pump.
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=183227

[78 Chevyrado]

Did you notice that that GM short block does not have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump? So with that short block you will have to run an electric fuel pump. This one should work if you are looking to keep the mechanical fuel pump.
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=183227

Yeah i saw that.   Thanks!   I was going to get the 2 piece seal block so i could keep the mech pump, but i really want that one piece seal, enough to get an electric pump.    Once i get everything together, this ones gonna take a while to get running.   so much to do.