New 383 Stroker Installed

[msc5195]

Block - 4 Bolt Main GM Block .30over. This Block was bored with a torque plates and has been clearanced for the stroke with a MILL, not Die Grinder. New cam bearings installed New freeze plugs installed New dowel pins installed

Crank - Eagle Cast 383 2-pc rear seal - 3.750 stroke external balance, 51 LBS

Rods - Eagle 5140 Forged I-Beam Rod Rod Length: 5.7" Rod Big End: 2.100" Rod Gudgen Pin: 0.927" Rod Bush End: Bushed Floating 5140 Steel Air Craft Material Matched weight sets (+/- 2 grams) Magnafluxed / Sonic tested & x-rayed Rod equipped with 8740 3/8 Con Rod Bolts Bronze bushings / heat treated / Stress relieved Pistons - Silv-O-Lite H860CP30

Cam - Howards, Retro-Fit Hyd. Roller Cam & Lifter Kit, Chev SB
Chev SB (Hydraulic Roller)
Duration @ .050": 224/230
Adv. Duration: 280/292
Lift: .501/.509
Lobe Sep.: 112

Heads - Pro Comp Aluminum 190cc w/64cc combustion Aluminum Cylinder Heads Feature- Hardened Seats Bronze Valve Guides High Grade Aluminum Multi-Angle Seat Design Designed Performance Valve Springs Advanced Port Design for Greater Flow Combustion Chamber: 64cc Intake Runner: 190cc Intake Valve: 2.02" Exhaust Valve: 1.60"

Stainless Tru Roller Roller Rockers

Black Mountain Precision Billet Aluminum 1" cog belt pully system

Polished Aluminum Radiator

Custom Made Aluminum Radiator Shroud with Dual Electric Cooling Fans

Chromed Stainless Radiator Hoses

Headman HTC #69086 Headers

New Chrome Power Steering Pump

New Polished Aluminum Water Pump

New Polished Aluminum Sanden 508 A/c Compressor

New Polished Aluminum Oil Pan

New Polished Dual Plane Air Gap Intake Manifold

New Polished Aluminum Alternator

[beastie_3]

Jealous

[msc5195]

This South Georgia High Humidity Heat is Killer!!!! Cant wait to get the A/C lines made and all hooked up.

[cvbear]

That is a gorgeous engine.  What are the valve covers?

[msc5195]

That is a gorgeous engine.  What are the valve covers?

Valve covers are "Tall Fabricated Polished Aluminum" paid like 79.00 for them. Bought them from www.abad71camaro.com. I actually bought 90% of the entire set up from him. Shaun was GREAT guy to do business with.

[greatdane]

So thats what it is like to have a engine! I might get one this century!!lol- Looks great man!

[derrick79]

WOW MAN! WOW! That is awesome. Did you build that engine yourself out of an old 350 or did you buy it? I have a 350 in my 76 3/4 ton and I am gonna take a stab at tearing it apart and stroking it next summer myself. If it turns out half as nice as yours I will be happy. Props man

[frotosride]

That looks really good man...
Word of advice be really careful with those heads. pro comp is notorious for using two piece valves in their heads and many people have blown the top ends as well as a lot of good pistons because of them.
I'm building one as well. But i did all the making room for a scat forged 400 crank and h-beams myself and when i can walk again im taking it to the machine shop to get it bored.
 Good luck with it.

[pocket5s]

very nice and very clean. I'm in the process of putting together a 383 of my own for my 87. won't have a roller cam, but will have AFR 195cc heads.

[msc5195]

Just Installed my New Quick Fuel 680 Polished Dual Feed Carb. She is running a little rich and wants to disel back when you cut it off. Quick fuel told me to verify the timing prior to touching any carb settings so this is what I have found:

Ok here is my problem. I was told by the Cam manufacture that my initial timing should be set at 14° and it should be about 36° when fully advanced. With motor idling at 750 rpms I pull the advance vac tube and plug it I then set the initial at 14°, I hook the vac tube back up and rev motor to 2500rpms and the full advance timing is around 50°. If I adjust the full advance down to 36° then it is Back at TDC at idle. So with this said I know or should I say I think that the way to fix this is to change the springs/weights/bushings and or stops in the distributor. How difficult is this to do? Is it simply by trial and error or is there a certain set that I need based on the numbers I provided above? ANY and ALL help would be GREATLY APPREITATED

[HAULIN IT]

You are on the right track. What you have (too much total advance) is really quite common. This is what you need for starters.
 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99619-1/
It will limit the full advance to where you want it.
 The springs & weights determine how fast the centrifugal advance "comes in". The bushings/slot limits the amount of the centrifugal advance. The initial number of degrees isn't as much of a concern as it is often made out to be, allthough it can help with idle & keeping plugs clean or cause the famous "hard start". Hope this helps, Lorne

[msc5195]

Thanks HAULIN IT. I will get one of them ordered.

[cvbear]

Do you have fiberglass boot guards over the sparkplugs?

[msc5195]

Yes, I have heat sleeves over the plug wires so the headers dont burn the wires.

[cvbear]

Do you remember what brand they were?  It looks like your plug wires are over the valve covers, do you remember what angle the boots are?  I am wondering how hard it was to get the boot guards over the boots?