stereo questions

[txchainsawgogi]

But I've found 4 open ports on my fuse box, two ACC, one IGN and one that might read LTS(rubbed off a bit)

[txchainsawgogi]

One acc and the ign are putting out current when the key is turned. None I've found are putting out with the key off.

[Grim 82]

From the original radio harness, are there any wires that are constant hot? If so use one of those. They should be from the radio fuse on the fusebox, but I would still run an inline fuse holder in that wire. A regular test light will work in lieu of a multimeter, but if that's all you have set it to DC volts, range 20 I think. You can check it directly at your battery to check that you have it in the right range. Just don't turn the dial and switch ranges with it hooked up to a circuit.

[txchainsawgogi]

That's the weird part...the factory radio would atleast come on and pick up a station or two. And now the new one won't do anything. The grey wire which should be constant is now dead? And the yellow wire is putting out what seems to be too low of a current.

[Grim 82]

Check the radio fuse at the box. Do you have a test light?

[txchainsawgogi]

No I need to grab a few things from radio shack to make one. The fuse is fine.the previous owner had a 30a in there but I put a 15a in since that what its labeled as needing. Oh and none of the lights in the factory radio ever worked.

[txchainsawgogi]

Does the new pioneer require more power or something to work? The old one turns on and actually got pretty loud.

[Grim 82]

I wouldn't bother making one. You can find one at any parts store, harbor freight, etc. for ten bucks or so that works fine, or spend way too much on a blue point one from the snap-on guy like I did. You can figure this out with your multimeter also. For the Pioneer you will need:

Constant 12V source (typically to the yellow wire, fused)
Switched 12V source (typically red)
Ground (black)
8 speaker wires for the 4 channels

If it has a blue and a blue with white stripe wires for remote and power antenna you should isolate those and cap them, as they will be hot with the head unit on, unless you are using an amp (remote turn-on) or power antenna (which you most likely don't have). If it has an illumination wire (typically orange), you shouldn't need that for anything either.

[txchainsawgogi]

Ok..cool. the only thing I'm having trouble with is a constant source.

[Grim 82]

Just a thought, but the factory dial radio probably didn't have a constant 12V (memory) wire because there wouldn't have been anything to remember (bass/treble settings, what station you were listening to, etc.) because they were manually dialed in. I may be wrong.

Somebody else chime in if you have a better idea.... but this is what I would do IF you don't have an un-used constant 12v source at the fuse box: Run a new wire from the distribution block on the firewall, with a fuse close to that source, through the firewall in an existing harness by the steering column, and up to the radio.

[txchainsawgogi]

Sounds do able I think... where exactly on the dist. block? I've never done that before.

[topp]

That's the weird part...the factory radio would atleast come on and pick up a station or two. And now the new one won't do anything. The grey wire which should be constant is now dead? And the yellow wire is putting out what seems to be too low of a current.

The grey is NOT constant....it is a DIMMER to your dash lights (only on when lights are on).

[txchainsawgogi]

Ok so then there was never a constant in the original 1978 am/fm wiring harness? The lights in the radio never worked, which might explain why that wire seems dead.

[txchainsawgogi]

Found an open BAT port on the fuse box...got everything figured out FINALLY. Thanks dude!