Body work in the works

[beastie_3]

With poor weather almost over in Cali, I am thinking about starting some body work on my truck. One thing Ive always liked about my truck is that it is one color (no primer spots or different color panels) and the body is in fairly good shape compared to others I have seen in my area.

I want to spray the truck one color, something that will help hide paint flaws (because I've never sprayed before), and then tackle a little body work. Once that is area is done, I want to spray it and then tackle another area. The truck will always be outside so I need rust protection. This will be spread over months, so that is why I want to fix a little area and paint it so it all matches fairly well. I drive my truck a few times a week, so I don't have the time to do it all at once. I would rather just have to spray one or two coats and be done with it for the meantime.

So what can I spray that will protect against rust when it rains or I wash it? Is there a primer that protects against rust, or will I have to spray a color coat after? What brands and/or types do you recommend?

I was looking at dv8customs post and it got me motivated. I like how his truck looks in post# 206 http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=10006.195

[beastie_3]

Oh and I rather not rattle can it.

[fitz]

I can't help with the paint advice but do have a few thoughts on this.
How many areas of the truck are you working on? I know you have some dents from then it was stored while you were in the service, Thanks again.
In the end do you plan on doing the complete paint job yourself?
One quick thought was that if these areas are the bolt on parts (doors, front-rear fenders/hood/tailgate etc, you should be able to find some solid replacements out in California for cheap $$. Would it be worth buying and painting all of the bolt on parts? That way if you could free the truck up for a week you could paint the cab and assemble all the pre painted parts.   

[jaredts]

Talk to a few different auto paint suppliers.  You can rattle can paint for protection and then take it off when you're ready.  As far as primers go they are almost all a little bit porous and will let some moisture through.  I used Clausen All U Need polyester primer.  One reason is that its easy and convenient (one step).  The Clausen rep. I talked to said that it was waterproof and would provide better protection out in the weather than epoxies, self etching, urethane high build.  If you talk to paint suppliers there are other primers out there that are easy to use and waterproof.

[Blazin]

Polyester absorbs moisture. How would that be water proof. Years ago we used a primer called feather fill. We wet sanded it on several restoration jobs, then had little pin holes appear over time in the paint. We talked to several paint reps etc. and they all said it was the polyester releasing the moisture we put into it when wet sanding it. We had allready determined that the wet sanding was the common denominator.

[onelow84]

weld through primer is excellent for not rusting, I have sprayed a couple parts with this stuff and left them outside for almost 6 months during the winter (on accident) and they still look like the day i sprayed them!

[Da67goatman]

Rustoleum sells oil based paint in gallons for around $25-30, I would prep the truck like a normal paint job, all the way to blocking it out, then spray one coat of rustoleum to protect every thing.  you can even leave it on when you get to the final color spray if you like.  Rustoleum is one of the longest lasting paint available, even in the harshest conditions.  Spraying it as a base coat, or sanding it back off, is your choice, but its easy to work with.  It is very forgiving to those of us with little painting exp, that was my first spray job and it looked like factory paint when it dried.  Just throwing out a cheap option for protection.  You thin it and spray it like a single stage paint, it is Very forgiving, you can spray a ton of paint before it runs and its cheap and readily available.  It even comes in rattle cans for touch ups.

P.S. I have to do something like this this summer, cause this winter destroyed my body work.  I left the truck in primer and it bubbled and cracked and rusted from the moisture.

[beastie_3]

I can't help with the paint advice but do have a few thoughts on this.
How many areas of the truck are you working on? I know you have some dents from then it was stored while you were in the service, Thanks again.
In the end do you plan on doing the complete paint job yourself?
One quick thought was that if these areas are the bolt on parts (doors, front-rear fenders/hood/tailgate etc, you should be able to find some solid replacements out in California for cheap $$. Would it be worth buying and painting all of the bolt on parts? That way if you could free the truck up for a week you could paint the cab and assemble all the pre painted parts.   

Those are my two main areas, but the front of my hoods is bubbling and there are small chips throughout the truck. The front fender I will probably do that. But I might not be able to just swap out the rear step fender because I have a fuel door on the driver side and that is very hard to find, so I most likely would have to do some surgery.

When I eventually get the truck painted for good, a shop will do it.


I always see cars and trucks driving around, at car shows, or online that are primered. I know you can do a real paint job to have that primered look like matte or flat black, but is there something in between?

[onelow84]

dp90 holds up well, give you a hot rod look too

[former520]

I just finished painting my truck a few months ago.  I was in a similar situation were I couldn't take it off the road for a long period and needed weather protection (it is kept outside).  I went to the local paint supply house here Space Age and they told me to use a good rattle can over the spots I was working on and save the good paint for the final application.  There recomendation was to use a paint that was close to original so it wouldn't be so bad and with a quality automotive (key word 'automotive') rattle under it you could scuff and paint with the rest with no worries of reaction.  My cover choice looke dclose on the lid, but was totally different in application, sure motivated me to get to work and get it done.

Speaking of reaction, I am under the impression that Rustoliums base product reacts poorly with other automotive paints if you wanted to cover it up in the future. 

I used a Single Stage Urethane paint http://www.advantagerefinishproducts.com/advantage-refinish-products/custom-packed-single-stage-paints/gloss-black-600.htm.  It was cheap ($100 a gallon including hardener and thinner) and shot it with my $40 Harbor Freight gun.   It won't win any awards, but it is all one color and shiney black and tough.  I had my 80lb pit hanging over the bed with his claws and it didn't leave any scratches you couldn't run out with you hands.  Probably tougher than you want if you want a pro tobe able to strip it to do final paint. 

You might just want to ask who is going to do the final paint what works best for them.  Keep you from any compatibility surprises or extra work down the road.