Author Topic: ok finally was able to take it for a drive  (Read 7103 times)

Offline Buddy

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ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« on: April 29, 2011, 03:01:04 pm »
I have been working on my step side 85 4x4  for awhile now. i have never driven the truck till today. I just bought it and tore it down. Anyways i have put 35's on the truck as well as a 6" lift. Almost all front end parts are new except the ball joints. I looked them over and they feel fine. I have also down a dry run where you move the wheel etc. Today when i took it for a drive i found that I was all over the road. The truck didn't shake or shimme all felt good that way just going down the road it seemed like i had to turn the wheel a fair bit to get a response. Know I should mention I have never driven a lifted truck till today. I drive around for work all day ina 2010 chevy 1/2 ton. I know thee will be a differance. I also didnt have a seat in it yet. It really was a sight to see today...lol. Anyways does a lifted truck always handle like this or do you think there might be something wrong, I was really scared to get it up around 100kmh.


Offline beastie_3

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Re: ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2011, 03:04:33 pm »
is your wheel geometry correct? does your steering wheel have play in it before the rest of the linkage moves? do you have a raised steering arm or aftermarket drag link or pitman arm?

Offline silverj

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Re: ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2011, 03:13:56 pm »
Is the steering box new or original?
87 R20

Offline Buddy

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Re: ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2011, 03:27:00 pm »
Pitman arm and drag link look good. Not sure if they are an aftermarket. Steering box have never been replaced, steering wheel sits correct?



Offline beastie_3

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Re: ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2011, 05:11:11 pm »
You should have invested in a raised steering arm and drag link or pitman arm because of the new steering linkage angles.

Your steering box may be worn. Does the wheel have slop in it before any other components move?

Offline Buddy

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Re: ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« Reply #5 on: April 29, 2011, 06:48:09 pm »
ok here is what I looked at and the info i found. I have a danna 44 (79 1st style) in the front and a 12 bolt in the rear. A guy I talked to told me to check the measurement in the front compared to the rear. So I did I found the 3/4 up the front of the front tire was 73 3/4 side to side and the rear axl was 70 1/4. I am assuming that is not good. Guess I need an alingment. The next thing I checked which really got my blood running was my BRAND new tie rods. The driver side is good and tight and the passenager side i can move the tire at least 1" from side to side with the wheel jacked up. This thing doesnt have a mile on it and it is shoot. I cant even return it as I bought it last year. I can see all of the ply right there in the tie rod. it wiggles aroung in the spindle section. At least it is the cheap one. I assume that means it is shot and is about 90% of my problem. The next I was asked if i had a raised pitman arm and I do. My drag link is pretty much level.  I think that is how you check the tie rods anyways is it not? i was told side to side movement is tie rod and top to bottom wiggle is ball joints.

Offline beastie_3

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Re: ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« Reply #6 on: April 29, 2011, 06:59:40 pm »
yes, the track is wider in the fron than the rear. no biggie, but i dont understand the first part of that sentence? "So I did I found the 3/4 up the front of the front tire was 73 3/4 side to side and the rear axl was 70 1/4."

pics of everything would help us out too.

Is the castle nut missing from the tie rod stud?

Offline Buddy

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Re: ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2011, 07:04:33 pm »
Forget the measurment part it is not inportant if it doesnt matter if the front is 2" bigger than the rear. No the castle nut is not missing. The tie rod is super loose. The castle nut was put on tight and it still flops around alot. like I said at least an 1" side to side.

Offline beastie_3

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Re: ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2011, 07:14:30 pm »
it wont tighten down any more? why is it loose. is it not fitting up all the way or is there damage?

Offline bake74

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Re: ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« Reply #9 on: April 29, 2011, 08:32:12 pm »
     So I am just starting on this thread, let me try to catch up.  You are saying that you replaced all the front suspension parts except the ball joints (in the steering knuckles) and you did not do anything to try to get it into alignment before you drove it ?
     Not to be harsh but if this is the case it falls under live and learn.  I would say now you need to replace the tie rod and at least measure the front width and back width of your front tire and adjust to get it close enough to get it to a alignment shop.  Then they can get the toe in/out and the camber within specs.
     There are many sources including but not limited to a shop manual or the internet on how to align the front end of these trucks, so to get it close enough to get it on a machine.  Good luck.
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Offline Cheyenne

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Re: ok finally was able to take it for a drive
« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2011, 12:28:32 pm »
Steering box my thoughts