front brake hose replacement - Nightmare

[p7387]

i am replacing the front calipers and wanted to do the hoses as well. i figured this was going to be a fairly straight forward job until i tried to disconnect the old hose from the metal lines. access is very inconvenient due to the location inside the frame. i finally got that big "backing" nut off from the inside of the frame (1hr) and than tried pushing the connection point through the hole so i could get at it from the outside of the frame. in spite of a lot of rust spray the connection was nearly impossible to break. even vice grips didn't work. i finally got it off after using a dremel cut off wheel to slice down the side of the female hose end and using opposing vice grips again. by the time i got it off the nut flange on the male nipple end of the metal line was stripped and rounded off.

this is my first attempt at this sort of work so i am not sure? is the threaded male nipple end of the metal line suppose to turn/spin/screw into the female rubber hose end, because it is impossible to spin. when the new hose goes on the hose will be twisting to screw on and the metal nipple will be stationary. i thought of just replacing the metal line but i see that there is some sort of junction between the master cylinder and the end of the line. this of course is buried in yet another inconvenient place and would only be reasonably accessible if i were to remove the fan shroud , yet another obstacle  in the way.

is this a common problem?

[thirsty]

is this a common problem?

Yes.
The flare nut is supposed to spin on the metal brake line. Sounds like it is rusted and the line will have to be replaced.

[zieg85]

Sorry to hear of your troubles.  I changed the hoses on my 85C10 and being a Chicagoland truck thought I was going to have major troubles but mine were fairly easy.  I soaked everything down the day before with Kroil and the only thing that gave me fits were the big nut until I found the right combination of tools to use.  I used the socket from a front end alignment set with an 3/4" offset ratchet wrench.  That whole alignment set paid for it just that one time use IMO

[Blazin]

yes one of the pain in the rear things about these trucks is the front steel brake lines. They were not thought out very well in the diesign stages!
I have never had to remove the fan shroud to change the lines on the proportioning valve though?

[p7387]

the one hose i managed to get off has a flare nut that does not spin and the nut area is striped to a circle. the line looks ok though and i was going to try to save the trouble of replacing the line by holding the striped nut and twisting on the hose instead. i did not get into the drivers side yet but i am expecting the same issue. the only way i can see myself changing the hoses to the (purporting valve?) is to remove the fan cover for easy access (doing work on the ground) and i don't know difficult or involved that is.

any ideas on the best options?
thanks

[1980c10]

Replace the lines as well if they are rusted, maybe get a set of line wrenches. Take your time and don't get discourged. This is a great learning experience so approach it that way and don't let it bother you if it takes an extra trip for parts or things seem difficult. For the most part it just nuts and bolts.

[Isaac3384]

Using the vice grips probably 'ovaled' the male threaded portion; that's why it's not spinning. I had to do this last weekend on my '78. I would reccommend replacing the metal lines, OR, if you have enough slack in the line, you could rent a flaring tool, cut off the bad end of the metal line, and install a new male threaded piece. It would be easier IMO to just replace it, though. Just like posted above, I would also reccommend getting a set of line wrenches.

[bigchevyc30]

on my truck i wouldnt have to remove any fan shrould even if it had one as i could get to the proportioning valve from the bottom i guees someone reposisioned mine i think or something also did they come yellow from factory as mine is yellow

[bake74]

     If is makes you feel better, my brake lines were rusted to and almost impossible to remove, and that was after I removed the cab and bed.

[78 Chevyrado]

I had trouble using line wrenches because of the tight quarters in the frame rail, especially on the passenger side, so pick up a set of line wrench crows feet to get them off easier. i bought a set at napa for $17 or so.

[Dr_Snooz]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who struggled with this. There was prolific and vigorous swearing in my shop during that particular replacement. I was going to replace the rear line too, but it rounded over, like both fronts and I abandoned it. The shiny new hose now resides behind the seat. Whatever.

[p7387]

the threaded nipple end is ok but it was indeed the ridiculous forces involved to remove such a seemingly delicate piece that rounded off the nut around the nipple. i still haven't started the drivers side but i plan on the same problems.

option#1
hold the rusted nipple stationary and spin the new hose on

option#2
remove the fan cover an replace the lines at the proportioning valve. with the fan cover on i can't even imagine getting at the  proportioning valve without 2x the headache we all listed above (working on the ground). the one good thing is that with the backing nut off there seems to be enough bend play to move the connector to the outside of the frame rail.

i have posted the question about fan shroud removal as a separate post.

[Isaac3384]

Try applying some heat to the fittings with a small propane torch, then soak it down with pb blaster. Make sure it's disconnected from the caliper first. The lube should suck up into the fitting; the heat will draw the lube in. I used this method, but I'm not sure how much it helped. Don't get it super hot, just heat it up some. It should help.