Author Topic: Replacing water pump, freeze plug, and motor mounts  (Read 9851 times)

Offline 1979C20

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Replacing water pump, freeze plug, and motor mounts
« on: November 15, 2011, 06:20:15 pm »
Well, tonight i have to replace my water pump which I just replaced in may, because the back plate rotted a pin hole through. I have to replace my freeze plugs because 3 of them rotted pinholes through and the fourth one blew out just now while I was driving because my truck is over heating due to the coolant leaking out, and before I got a chance to pull over steam started billowing from under my hood. And the motor mounts that I just replaced in june or so are shot again already because my tranny mount is missing 2 bolts. Fun, right? Ill be taking as many pictures as I can as I go along, but I really just want to get it done. the irony of it is, I was just at my brothers house replacing his fuel line off the pump on his C20 because it was leaking.
1979 SCLB C20 Q-jet 350 SM465 14b F.F. 4.10 G80
1989 GMC Suburban V2500 TBI350 TH400 4in lift 35's 14b SF

Offline bake74

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Re: Replacing water pump, freeze plug, and motor mounts
« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2011, 07:06:43 pm »
     Hey 1979C20 you are suppose to use a mixture of water and anti-freeze in your radiator, not acid.  ;D  How in the world did your new water pump and your freeze plugs rot out so fast ?  Do you have a lot of rust in your system.
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Offline 1979C20

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Re: Replacing water pump, freeze plug, and motor mounts
« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2011, 11:00:17 pm »
Theres not too much rust in my system. But ive only put antifreeze in it once because it was leaking and water is free. But, since im hopefully atopping all the leaks, Im going to.put antifreeze in it.
1979 SCLB C20 Q-jet 350 SM465 14b F.F. 4.10 G80
1989 GMC Suburban V2500 TBI350 TH400 4in lift 35's 14b SF

Offline 1979C20

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Re: Replacing water pump, freeze plug, and motor mounts
« Reply #3 on: November 19, 2011, 02:39:14 am »
Okay! Took me 3 days. What a paaaain. The 2 freeze plugs behind the motor mounts are almost impossible to get out or in. I had only hand tools during this job. I didnt get many pictures because I was too angry to think about it. Me and my brother worked on one freeze plug for 2 days. I started with the water pump, nice and easy. Loosened and removed all the belts. Pulled the fan off, then removed 2 of the power steering pump bolts so I could get to the water pump bolts. Took me about 30 minutes for the swap. Then I pulled the long bolt out of each motor mount. I didnt have an engine hoist, so I put a bottle jack under my balancer/pulley and lifted it there. Pulled the 6 motor mounts out and then the 3 clamshell bolts out. The driver side was missing all 3 clamshell bolts!! I tried removing the freeze plugs the way I was taught, which was take a long screw driver to the outer edge of the flat area, but they were so rotted it just broke the centers in. then I got one out by prying the inside edge with a flat head. The ither one I had to cut a groove in with a small saw in order to weaken it enough to bust it in. and the third one was nice and easy. To get them in, I pushed them into the block enough that they would stay, then loosely bolted the clamshells.back ou. I wedged the screw driver between the freeze plug and the clamshell and then hammered away, pushing the freeze plugs into the block. And the one on the back side of the driver aide I put the handle of the long flat head in the middle of it and hammered away at the tip. Then I bolted the new motor mounts in. a gallon of green antifreeze then topped it off with water. No leaks, and the temp stays at about 160°F.
1979 SCLB C20 Q-jet 350 SM465 14b F.F. 4.10 G80
1989 GMC Suburban V2500 TBI350 TH400 4in lift 35's 14b SF

Offline bake74

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Re: Replacing water pump, freeze plug, and motor mounts
« Reply #4 on: November 19, 2011, 11:35:18 am »
     Well now that you have done your freeze plugs, water pump, motor mounts, and I believe transmission mounts, I would hope you do not have any more problems for awhile, maybe now you can enjoy driving your truck.
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Offline firefighter

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Re: Replacing water pump, freeze plug, and motor mounts
« Reply #5 on: November 19, 2011, 12:44:40 pm »
Normally after changing frost plugs like you did, it's a good idea after 2 weeks or so, to remove the frost plugs you just installed and inspect the inside of the block with a flashlight to make sure all is well. Then you can just simply reinstall the same frost plugs with a little sealer on them. I'm pretty sure everyone does this.


Just kidding !!!!    ;D

Glad you got that crappy job done. I've had to do it myself some years ago and it WAS a pain!!
Now just enjoy driving it.   

Offline 1979C20

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Re: Replacing water pump, freeze plug, and motor mounts
« Reply #6 on: November 19, 2011, 04:18:29 pm »
I need to fond one more bolt for my tranny mount and tighten the other three up. But, my power steering box still leaks pretty bad. So, I bought an input shaft/rag joint seal kit and im going to seal up the box that originally came on my truck and put it back in.
1979 SCLB C20 Q-jet 350 SM465 14b F.F. 4.10 G80
1989 GMC Suburban V2500 TBI350 TH400 4in lift 35's 14b SF

Offline Bitzer!

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Re: Replacing water pump, freeze plug, and motor mounts
« Reply #7 on: December 15, 2011, 07:40:09 am »

When ever I've had to replace frost plugs I've found it easier to use a socket that fits snug and tap centrally. I always use a smear of sealant too, just in case!
1979 GMC CrewCab  C20 1t
454 750 Holley,TH350, 14bolt diff fully floating
Why aren't there 8 days in a week!
A K5 rolling shell *new addition*