relocating spring centerbolts

[Sartobuilt]

I want to move my rear axle back 2". Is it ok and safe to redrill the centerbolt? I'm thinking redrill the hole install new bolt. Then clearance the spring pad and top plate. So I can leave the original bolt intact.

[78 Chevyrado]

only thing I think I would worry about is that your new hole is only 2" from the old one, sounds like a potential weak point with both holes so close together.

[bake74]

     There is a reason why the hole is in the spot that it is in.  The right and only safe way is to move the mounts back 2 ".

[Isaac3384]

Measure from the front of your spring to the center bolt, then from the rear to the center bolt, they may be a little different. I know they are on S-10s.

[Sartobuilt]

The reason why I want to do this is, the frame is a one ton with an 8" lift. In order to achieve an 8" lift is either  a 6" spring and a 2" block or a 6" spring with a ord reverse shackle 2.5". I did the flip kit. I now know why this is, the front eye bolt is almost 2" higher on the frame. That is why you can't get a 8" spring for a one ton.
So.... Because of the pivot it moves the tire forward more than normal. I would like to correct this. If you look at any truck with a lift and at least a 37" tire it is forward.
And also this parts off my 3/4 ton that got wrecked. Put motor, trans, and transfercase in a one ton frame and now my drive shaft is too long, about 2".

[HAULIN IT]

I don't think drilling a new hole in the spring is a good idea. Re-drilling the perch on the housing would be a better plan, but 2"... that's allot & probably not a good idea either.
I wasn't familiar with the ORD set-up (I'm not into lifted 4x4's) so I checked out their site. I have to question the plan. I can relate to not wanting to use a block but what they are doing creates it's own set of problems. The installation of that kit is why your axle is forward. If you study the design of the spring set-up originally, the spring was lower in the front...angling upward to the rear. When you mount the perch of the axle on the spring & then rotate it lower in the back...the axle goes forward, it can't be helped.
The "more correct" way would be to take both front & rear hanger brackets off of the frame & raise the frame. This would maintain the wheelbase & designed anti-dive. They touch on this on the ORD site about 3/4 of the way down in the "Why we don't offer more lift, ect." part.
Is the back of your spring higher off the level ground than the front...I'm guessing not by much if any. Since you have the kit in the rear installed, I guess you could just do the front hanger to correct you problem, but like they mentioned "You have to move the end 2" to gain 1", this is why going straight up is "more correct" in my mind. Good Luck, Lorne

[Irish_Alley]

Measure from the front of your spring to the center bolt, then from the rear to the center bolt, they may be a little different. I know they are on S-10s.

this is true for our trucks also. but about the redrill thats just going to mess up everything. the springs flex and move so think about this if you nail a 2x4 to a tree with only one nail it will spin but if you add another nail it locks it in place so adding another bolt will lock the spring in place not going to be good. and back to the center bolt not being centered. if you rotate the spring 180 degrees so front is not rear then rotate the bottom spring on the springs so the angle if now facing the right way it will move the spring back about 4" but this may make your driveshaft to short now

[bake74]

     Heck, just rip it all out and put a 4 - link or a bag system in, then you will have any kind of adjustment you want with the 4 - link system anyway.   

[Sartobuilt]

The four link will be the next one, something I've always wanted to do.

I called superlift and they said it was ok to redrill the centerhole, but I'm still leaning towards it not being a good idea.

I think I'm going to make a offset plate using the overload spring. redrill a new hole 2" offset and use this hole to bolt the springs together then clearance the top of the old hole and use a short center bolt to locate the new 2" setback. 

[rustymitchell]

Offroad Design does offer these as well:   http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm   
They could perhaps work for you.  They'll allow you to move your axle back 1 1/2 inches.  Its not quite 2 inches, but it may be close enough to what you need.  You might not need the one inch of extra lift they'll give you though.
I put the 2.5" ORD flips on my truck (a 3/4 ton) too, but I only have 2 inch springs in the back.  They lower the rear spring eye 5 inches giving 2.5 inches at the spring center.  Yes, the spring center bolt moves forward but I can't see it being a full 2 inches with only a 5 inch drop at the rear eye.  Of course the more arch you have on your spring the further the center bolt will move forward.
What length of springs are on the 1 tons anyway?  Are they all 56 inch?

[Sartobuilt]

I dont need the 1" additional lift.  Yes they are 56" springs.

I just called a machinist friend and we are going to modify the overload spring.

[Sartobuilt]

Modified the overload spring like the ORD one, driveshaft fits and axle is centered, worked like a champ. The guy didn't even charge me. He did them on a CNC machine. He had them done in 30 minutes. I've never seen someone run a CNC like a bridgeport. Bunch of buttons pressed close the door and done.

Thanks.

[bake74]

     Glad to hear you got it taken care of, and now we all know what to do if we need to in the future.   Isn't sharing fun boys and girls 

[rustymitchell]

Glad it worked out and good idea using the overloads