gear reduction starters

[jaredts]

My truck's an 83 c10 that had a 305/700R4, but now has a '79 L48 350/TH350 in it.  I pulled my starter off yesterday and after a little research see that its a non-heavy duty starter that was only offered on 305's.  The motor is a little smaller in diameter than normal and there is no copper spacer from the solenoid to the motor.  I don't think I want to put another one like that on, so I'm thinking a gear reduction starter is in order.  I changed one for my father in law for his mid 90's chevy truck, and man they are light.  I don't want to accidentally get one made for 10mm screws or buy a piece of junk, but I don't want to spend $150.  Not sure I want to take a chance on a used starter either.  Anyone bought a fairly inexpensive one that could share a link?

[zieg85]

If it were me I would go to a real auto parts store like a NAPA and bring yours along.  I have never had a bad starter from them.  You should be able to get a HD starter for your application, try matching up using your actual 79 350.

[jaredts]

I've already been down that path, and I'm pretty sure I want a gear reduction starter.  I'm thinking about this one:  http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p-5809-sbc-bbc-chevy-3-hp-high-torque-mini-starter-168-tooth-sdr0031-l.aspx
Great price, and some mention of it around the web as a decent product.  I'm still not sure, but want to pull the trigger on something in the next day or so.  I currently have the staggered bolt pattern starter, so I assume my flexplate is 168 tooth.  I'm not sure if there's anything else to this or not.

[ssapach]

I put a "high torque" starter on my 1986 454 and I love it so far.

First of all, it's half the weight.
Second, it's half the size of the old starter which makes it easier to put in because it fits without having to undo my front drive shaft now (header clearance).
Third, it starts nicer and cranks faster.  Although that may be partially because it's new and I put larger battery cables in the truck.

Couldn't tell you the brand name without crawling under the truck, but I think I paid $140 or so brand new and they took my old clunker starter as a core.  I kind of laughed when the parts guy gave it to me because it was much smaller than the old starter.

[bake74]

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p-5809-sbc-bbc-chevy-3-hp-high-torque-mini-starter-168-tooth-sdr0031-l.aspx    That looks like a great price for a gear reduction starter.

[Donut]

bake, thanks for the link.  I've got it bookmarked for the future.

I personally would do like zieg85 suggested, look for a HD starter for your application.  I haven't used mini or hi-torque starters yet.  On my smallblocks, I just find a starter for a 454.  Relatively cheap and available, a little more torque, and they appear to be the same as OEM.  From what I've read/heard they just have more windings internally.

I'm also looking at your budget...

[jaredts]

I just pulled the trigger on the DB gear reduction.  I'll post back on how it works out.  It's really only a few bucks more than the stock unit (less than stock from some places).  I've just had my share of sore arms/shoulders from changing stock starters and I'm tired of the weight.  That and the gear reduction units are superior in many ways.  They crank over pretty much any engine effortlessly and don't drain your battery so much if you have extended crank times.  We'll see.

[Donut]

if your fishing it out around cheap headers, you can add smashed fingers to the list.  Let us know how it works out.
I almost went gear reduction on my current truck, but after changing cables, cleaning contacts etc.  starter was good.  Maybe next time.

[Blazin]

I have gear reduction starter my 86 K30 with a 454, its going on 4 years old, and no problems at all. I also have one my 86 K2500 with a 350, its over a year old and no problems. they both have headers on them so heat is an issue with stock starters. I bought both of mine from a shop that rebuilds starters, alt. etc. He had reman gear reductions, and new. I chose to go with new. I paid $87 and change for each of them.

[bake74]

bake, thanks for the link.  I've got it bookmarked for the future.

     Jaredts gave the link, was just reaffirming that it was a good price.  So the thanks should go to him.

[jaredts]

I ordered it two days ago, they shipped it within a couple of hours of the order and its at home waiting on me now.  For $57.90 including shipping and two day delivery it would have to be bad for me to not be happy.  Hopefully I can get it on tonight.  It just depends on how late I get home.

[jaredts]

Ugh.  Thanks again p.o.  I decided I needed to clean the ton of grease off the wires before I put this new starter on and when I unroll the electrical tape from the wires I find a ball of solder where my fusible links are supposed to be.  There's three wires here besides the battery pos.  Are they alternator, headlights, and main feed to the junction on the firewall?  I've looked at the wiring diagrams in the tech section and it's hard to follow.  I don't have the plastic housing that goes around the fusible links or anything.  Not sure where to go from here.  Should I go to a junkyard and cut this piece of harness out so I get the plastic covers and fusible links?  I've read Vile's writeup on replacing them, and soldering the connections and heat shrink tubing won't be a problem once I figure out what I need.

[jaredts]

Okay, I gave the wiring diagrams another look.  One wire goes to the bulkhead connector on the firewall near the fusebox.  This must be the one that powers headlights.  It looks like the wire to the alternator and the wire to the junction block on the firewall both come out of a single fusible link, so I'm not sure what size to buy since it goes to two wires?

edit:  thinking some more, the alternator wire is just a sensing wire, so I buy a fusible link based on the wire size that goes to the junction block, right?

[Donut]

bake, thanks for the link.  I've got it bookmarked for the future.

     Jaredts gave the link, was just reaffirming that it was a good price.  So the thanks should go to him.

Oops, sorry. 
Thanks  Jaredts, wasn't trying to give your credit away, sometimes my dial-up IS quicker than I am.  (still have it bookmarked)
Don't know about the wire Q. sorry.

[bake74]

Okay, I gave the wiring diagrams another look.  One wire goes to the bulkhead connector on the firewall near the fusebox.  This must be the one that powers headlights.  It looks like the wire to the alternator and the wire to the junction block on the firewall both come out of a single fusible link, so I'm not sure what size to buy since it goes to two wires?

edit:  thinking some more, the alternator wire is just a sensing wire, so I buy a fusible link based on the wire size that goes to the junction block, right?

     Yes, buy wire based on the fusible link size.  I am not sure the wire size but do a search for fusible links and it should give you some results.  Good luck and let us know (or me I guess) so I know for future reference.