Low Budget Paint Question

[ahobson1]

86 K10 Step Side:
 
I'm planning on doing some body work on my truck this spring (rockers, floor pans, cab corners...the usual) and one would think that's the part that would be stressing me out. It's not. My biggest headache right now is PAINT! .  Please don't laugh too hard experienced auto painters, but I was looking into buying an Earlex 5500 electric hvlp system for some various projects around the house and was wondering if any of you think it would be possible to do a half decent paint job with this? Keep in mind this is LOW budget, I won't be going out and buying top of the line paint, reducers, hardeners, etc...I'll most likely be using either flat black or semi gloss Rustoleum. I've seen the roll-on and brush jobs people have done but would like to avoid that route since I don't want to spend the rest of my 20's sanding. I've also thought of rattle canning it but I'm not really sure that it would look any better than spraying it with an Earlex that I wanted to buy for other uses anyway. That's where I need HELP! Any information is much appreciated and thanks for reading!! 

[bake74]

     I am not familiar with the "Earlex 5500", but you need to atomize the paint/thinner combination to get a decent job done.  I am sure more will chime in when they read this post.

[jaredts]

I've been using a turbine HVLP sprayer from HF for my truck.  I've sprayed high build primer and single stage urethane without issue.  Every once in a while I've sprayed that smooth as glass look that I want, but for the most part it has a little bit of orange peel.  Definitely acceptable.  Add a tad extra reducer to make up for the heat of the air from the turbine and fine tune fluid flow and you'll be good to go.  I don't know the product you're talking about specifically, but Earlex is supposed to be a good brand.  Just make sure you get the nozzle sizes you need.

[ahobson1]

Thanks for the info. Not going for the glassy look. Couldn't imagine doing that much prep work and then scratching it after its done. Just want a flat look but I don't want it to look like total crap.

[454Man]

Thanks for the info. Not going for the glassy look. Couldn't imagine doing that much prep work and then scratching it after its done. Just want a flat look but I don't want it to look like total crap.

I used the rustoleum flat black in the quart can on my old car. Came out good for me. I sprayed it with one of those cheap harbor freight guns and a small compressor. Took my time. If I was you id try both the flat and semi gloss to see what looks better to you. I used this paint because I read up on the $50 paint job on the net:) good luck

[zieg85]

Not familiar with that particular unit however they all basically work the same.  You will have to go real slow and slightly over-reduce the paint in order for it to atomize well.  You may have to use a faster reducer than called for because of over-reduction which can cause paint runs. 

[ahobson1]

Yeah the $50 Rusto jobs are the things I kept running into when I searched for low budget paint jobs. Just never saw anybody who used a turbine system. It was always either roll-on or hvlp with a massive air compressor that nobody on a budget can afford. Zieg, what's another option for reducers out there? The only mixture I've ever really seen anybody use with Rustoleum is roughly 50/50 paint/mineral spirits.

[454Man]

Yeah I did it with a small compressor. I mixed it less than 50/50 more like 60/40 I didn't need a reducer when I did it. Outside temp was like 70+ I sprayed it in the evening and it dried pretty quick. I was able to drive the next day. One thing you really need to do is insulate underside of the hood or the paint will soak in any water that touches it. Ask me how I know.

[ahobson1]

Yeah I did it with a small compressor. I mixed it less than 50/50 more like 60/40 I didn't need a reducer when I did it. Outside temp was like 70+ I sprayed it in the evening and it dried pretty quick. I was able to drive the next day. One thing you really need to do is insulate underside of the hood or the paint will soak in any water that touches it. Ask me how I know.

Haha I can take a pretty good guess on how you know that. I'll keep that in mind though, since there is absolutely no insulation under there right now.

[454Man]

Also dont use the no oder mineral spirits:)

[454Man]

Yeah I did it with a small compressor. I mixed it less than 50/50 more like 60/40 I didn't need a reducer when I did it. Outside temp was like 70+ I sprayed it in the evening and it dried pretty quick. I was able to drive the next day. One thing you really need to do is insulate underside of the hood or the paint will soak in any water that touches it. Ask me how I know.

Haha I can take a pretty good guess on how you know that. I'll keep that in mind though, since there is absolutely no insulation under there right now.

This is what it looks like when. You don't use insulation under the hood:( two year old pj)

[HAULIN IT]

One thing you really need to do is insulate underside of the hood or the paint will soak in any water that touches it.
This is what it looks like when. You don't use insulation under the hood:( two year old pj)

Not sure what you are getting at with the "water soaking in" part...What does water getting IN the paint have to do with a piece of fur under the metal?
Your chalky looking paint is not from the lack of insulation. Likely from over reduced paint or low UV quality paint just sitting in the Texas sun. Think about it...the entire hood, EVERY inch is chalky, the blanket only goes in the center & if the heat or dampness at the time of painting was the cause, you would have the shapes from the understructure & glue spots a different shine, dullness, ect. than the single layer areas. My Two Cents, Lorne

[454Man]

That's was just an idea of what it looks like when u don't use a heat barrier under the hood. That's the truck I'm getting tomorrow. I did my buick with rustoleum and it wasn't the tx heat. It was from not havin insulation and riding in the rain. That is the only time it turned chalky.

[Donut]

Imo, the "heat" barrier, is more of a sound barrier, otherwise your firewall would have baked off years ago.

One thing you really need to do is insulate underside of the hood or the paint will soak in any water that touches it.
This is what it looks like when. You don't use insulation under the hood:( two year old pj)

Not sure what you are getting at with the "water soaking in" part...What does water getting IN the paint have to do with a piece of fur under the metal?
Your chalky looking paint is not from the lack of insulation. Likely from over reduced paint or low UV quality paint just sitting in the Texas sun. Think about it...the entire hood, EVERY inch is chalky, the blanket only goes in the center & if the heat or dampness at the time of painting was the cause, you would have the shapes from the understructure & glue spots a different shine, dullness, ect. than the single layer areas. My Two Cents, Lorne

[zieg85]

Zieg, what's another option for reducers out there? The only mixture I've ever really seen anybody use with Rustoleum is roughly 50/50 paint/mineral spirits.

Really the paint dictates the reducer type.  There are only 200-300 choices and that is just the bare solvents not counting the 1000's of blended solvents used out there.  Solvents are classified into 3 categories.  Active, Latent and Diluents.  Common Diluents include VM&P Naptha and Mineral Spirits among others.  Xylene is also in that class but may be to strong for use in some paints.  Acetone is VOC exempt, great for cleaning with but the flash point is -4F and is extremely Flammable.  Acetone evaporates so quickly and may be part of a blended solvent to lower overall VOC limits.  Acetone also can carry water which isn't good for a Urethane.  Acetone is also a finger nail polish remover and strips some paints because the backbone of the resin system (paint quality) can't handle the strong type of Active solvent.  Blended FAST, Medium and warm weather are blended reducers for a particular paint technology and may not work the same for a paint it was not designed for.

In as general terms as possible paint is formulated for a specific purpose and paint companies do testing insuring at least it has a good shelf life.  Paints are also formulated for specific applications such as automotive paint was not designed for roller application.  In 2K urethanes more care has to be taken.  I can go on for hours and even confuse myself as I am not an eloquent author.   

I am not a Chemist by any stretch but my 27 years in the field I've learned a thing or 3.  READ AND UNDERSTAND the label that is on the can of paint you choose, review the MSDS especially the personal protection part, follow safe guidelines and wear a well fitting chemical respirator that is designed for the paint that will protect you.  You only have 1 pair of lungs...