Author Topic: Power window issues  (Read 59293 times)

Offline SUX2BU99

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Power window issues
« on: April 29, 2012, 01:50:59 pm »
My drivers power window has always worked well and it's been my passenger side that's always been slow and I have to rock it up and down to finally get it closed. Well my drivers side window has stopped working. Normally I only roll up my windows when the truck is running and there is 13.8V available to the motor. When my HEI died and I had to get my window up, I had to roll up the drivers side just on battery power. It was rolling up slowly, and slower and slower and then right near the top I heard a clunk and it just stopped. Pressing the switch up or down doesn't produce any results for noise or movement.

I've searched through the tech pages and through 6 pages of this section to try and pinpoint what the issue is before I tear the door apart. Any ideas? Motor konked out? Regulator? What could break inside the regulator that would require replacement?

My Haynes manual said to put a screw through the regulator plate, through to the gear quadrant behind, before removing the motor. Vile said the same thing in the tech page thread here:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,1950.0.html

I believe this is because of the spring that has tension on it and removing the motor without putting a screw or bolt in to hold the reguator to the quadrant will result in all kinds of ugliness. Is this all visible while working on the assembly in the door? Or do you have to remove the glass, remove the regulator and then get the whole assembly out of the truck and THEN put the screw in before taking the motor off while on the work bench?

Thanks!
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline bake74

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2012, 07:11:38 pm »
     I would bet that your motor went out.  Before taking anything out, check to see if you got full voltage at the motor itself.  If you do then check to make sure the regulator did not come apart or break, if not probably faulty motor.
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Offline Captkaos

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2012, 04:08:29 pm »

Offline Skunksmash

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2012, 03:14:44 pm »
My motors move at about 1/100th of one mile an hour lol. Not looking forward to having to replace them. But according to what I've read around here yeah, its almost always the motor.
« Last Edit: July 29, 2012, 04:22:42 pm by Skunksmash »

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2012, 10:03:35 pm »
Are new ones available or is it a hunting trip to the boneyard?
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline Skunksmash

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2012, 09:13:00 pm »
Are new ones available or is it a hunting trip to the boneyard?

Yeah you can get 'em new. That's one of those parts that I wouldn't trust from the junkyard. Even if they worked fine now, how much life can they really have left? Who knows.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #6 on: July 22, 2012, 12:20:58 pm »
To get back to this, I finally  had a chance to take off my door panel and do some checking. Voltage checks at the switch turned out fine. I looked in the bottom of the door and saw two wires with leads sitting at the bottom of the door! So that seems to be my problem even though I have no idea how that would have happened. Anyway it seems that the window and regulator still have to come out in order to reconnect the wires.

My window seems to be stuck in the up position. I can move it down about an inch or so from the top but then it seems to stop from there. In order to get the window off the rail, how far down does it need to come? Should I just force it down if I need to? And it's only when you want to take the motor off that the quadrant needs to be locked with a screw to the regulator arm, right?
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Online zieg85

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #7 on: July 22, 2012, 12:31:03 pm »
The only way I have done it was to take the window regulator bolts out so you can maneuver the glass done.  It is a real pain and I use duct tape on the door openings because I have sliced my arms/hands before.  I do this all the time for parts trucks or power doors off of trucks.
Carl 
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1986 C10 under construction
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Offline jaredts

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #8 on: July 22, 2012, 08:12:02 pm »
You should be able to hook that plug back up without removing anything but the door panel.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #9 on: July 24, 2012, 11:47:23 pm »
The wires are on a plug? Hmmm all I saw were two wires terminated each with an uninsulated spade connector. I'll have to get my arm down there and feel around.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2012, 03:15:23 pm »
Does the vent window need to come out to take out the window? I'm having a heck of a time with this. I took off the window seals but still can't seem to figure out how the glass comes out. I plugged the wires back into the motor and it worked, but the motor stopped before the window got all the way up so it seems to have "skipped" some teeth or something. But now I just hear a click from the motor so maybe it is dead now too. Ugh.

I just want to get this assembly out so I can bench repair it. My truck doesn't seem to have the usual 4 bolts holding the regulator in either. The holes are there but I only had one bolt and then one stud with a nut on it holding the regulator in. My truck I believe was a non-power window truck that a previous owner added power windows to, possibly from a 91 Sub but not 100% sure.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Online zieg85

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2012, 03:59:41 pm »
Rotate the window 90 degrees where the track is closest to the latch.
Carl 
1985 C20 Scottsdale 7.4L 4 speed 3.21
1986 C10 under construction
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Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2012, 03:26:46 pm »
How can I rotate it though when the front vertical edge is in the vent window channel and the bottom of the glass is attached to the rail that is in the upper track?  Is the window supposed to be up or down when trying to rotate it?
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #13 on: August 15, 2012, 02:30:51 pm »
Anybody? I just need to know if I have to take the time and effort to remove the vent window or not.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Online bd

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Re: Power window issues
« Reply #14 on: August 15, 2012, 03:23:38 pm »
http://73-87.com/7387garage/interior/winmotor.htm

Be careful of sharp metal edges and be wary of getting your fingers pinched by the regulator arms during R&R.

(1) Lower the window a few inches; (2) unbolt the window regulator and disengage the rollers from the tracks and glass lower sash rail by referring to the above link; (3) remove the window regulator and motor assembly from the door (hold the glass up with a screwdriver stuck through a bolt hole in the door); (4) remove the rear vertical channel mounting bolts so the rear channel dangles loose inside the door; (5) rotate the glass 90° (with the lower sash rail still attached) and slide the glass upward out the top.  Installation is the reverse.
« Last Edit: August 15, 2012, 07:37:33 pm by bd »
Rich
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87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)