Frame Z'ing

[evlc10]

I have a 82 c-10, Im looking into Z'ing the frame 2-3 inches, ive studied the link on Z'ing that Captain Caos put up. My question is what happens with the steering, do I have to put more uni joints in ?

[slammed79]

Prolly. There are easier ways to get your truck to lay out though. You can bolt in a new front crossmember from Porterbuilt, Scotts Hotrods, Suicide Doors, or AIM industries. If you're on a heidegger, you can do a stock floor bodydrop. I've never been a fan of z'ing frames, mostly because I rarely have seen it done safely outside a shop.

The kits I mentioned above also will pull your track width in a couple inches and give track and pinion steering.

My 2¢

[evlc10]

I live in Australia, so to buy porterbuilt or any of the brands dropmembers, Im lookin at least $1500 in freight, and to buy a righthand drive mustang rack and pinion in Oz they cost $2250, plus the dropmember Im looking at about $5000. I really want the truck to pinch weld the ground, Z'ing just seems to be the cheapest way to go here in Oz, Ive already step notched the back (cut the frame ) may as well do the front. Last night I read a post on Z'ing 2 inches by DV8CUSTOMS, it said anymore than that and you need to use unijoints on the steering shaft. So Ive answered my own question...

  Thanks Slammed79, I would love to go with the dropmember, but to import stuff to Oz the freight is rediculous.

   

[slammed79]

I really want some rhd parts... Hmm, someday.

[HAULIN IT]

Sectioning the front crossmember might be another thought that would get you an additional inch or so for very little money. Could you post some interior & underhood photos of your truck? It seems to me someone before had posted photos of a RH drive, it's been a while. Odd things interest me. Lorne 

[evlc10]

Guys I think I might go with the sectioned crossmember, I been ringin around and I found someone with an old chassis. Has anyone sectioned it more than 1.5", say I did 2" I would have to notch the frame for the tierod assembly, and look at the transmission clearance ??
 Lorne (HAULIN IT) I will put some photos up as soon as I work out how to do it.

[evlc10]

Heres the righthand photos, the almost finished interior and the firewall.

[evlc10]

Even the wipers are changed.

[HAULIN IT]

Cool! Thanks for posting the pictures. Looks like a nice machine. So is that a GM "done at the factory" or some conversion deal? What seems odd to me is that it isn't a true "look in the mirror" type of thing with the heater box in the "correct" location. Wonder why the needed/bothered to move the wiper motor? To me, it would be less in the way than the heater box that they worked around. I didn't really expect the power steering pump to be moved...just figured longer hoses would be all they would engineer.
I would be careful doing too much of a section on the crossmember...remember you are changing the pivot point placements on the lower control arms only & not the knuckle height...things could get acky-kacky & not handle/steer very well. Lorne

[evlc10]

Thanks Lorne ! An engineer did the steering conversion that specialises in Cadillac left to right conversions. It was my idea for the wipers, we actually had to notch the heater box for the wiper motor, I wish we could of got rid of the heater but to register the vehicle it must have a demister. We just flipped the whole wiper mechinism upside down cut the end off that attaches to the motor and rewelded it, even the wiper grill is converted ( Im just a fussy $#*() ). There are factory righthand drive trucks here, but they only did 73-80 C20's. GM here imported them and converted them to compete against the F100's in the 70's but they didnt take off because they were more expensive.
  Yeah I dont know what to do, I really want the truck to lay sill. Z or sectioned crossmember or expensive dropmember

[evlc10]

What is a stock floor bodydrop ?? do you just cut the mounting brackets off and mount it to the floor ??

[slammed79]

A stock floor body drop basically is a reframe from the firewall back using say, 2x3 or 2x4 tube. Now you might be thinking that it is more work than a z'ing, and truthfully, it is, but it saves needing to notch  the front frame for your steering.

[Captkaos]

If you are going to Z the frame, my opinion is to skip the sectioning the crossmember.
look at this write-up:  http://www.loweredd.com/Frame_Z.html

[evlc10]

Yeah thanks Captkaos, thats the link Im going to use.