Make sure you have good chassis and engine grounds.
What's the voltage at the battery while cranking?
To quickly isolate the problem to the wiring or distributor, run a temporary 10-12 gauge jumper from battery positive directly to the distributor 'BAT' terminal to see if it starts and runs. ...Remember, you'll have to disconnect the jumper wire to kill the engine.
If it runs, check the fusible links at the starter and firewall junction block, then measure voltage loss at and through the ignition switch and bulkhead connector while cranking. Inspect harness and terminal connectors for heat damage.
If there's still no spark, did you replace the 'complete' distributor with cap, rotor and coil? Is the rotor turning?