brake proportioning valve/ distribution block?

[whysohigh]

I installed new front calipers and during bleeding im getting no fluid at all to the driver side, I put my vacuum pump on one end and the air compressor on the other and its clogged, nothing goes thru at all. I changed all lines and hoses and still nothing, I wanted to replace the proportioning valve but its unavailable at the local parts stores. Anyone ever had to buy one? Can I just remove it and clean it up?

[Magic1]

I had the same problem with mine. Had to replace it too. Got it from Carolina classics online. About 75$

[gildardo01]

you can get them off of ebay for about 65 dollars...

[whysohigh]

Thanks, turned out to be the only hose I thought didn't need replacing, the drivers front, im having a hard time getting it off due to lack of wrench turning space. If I can't get it tonight I'll post another thread, seems like others must have had issues and could help.

[bd]

Thanks, turned out to be the only hose I thought didn't need replacing, the drivers front, im having a hard time getting it off due to lack of wrench turning space. If I can't get it tonight I'll post another thread, seems like others must have had issues and could help.

No need to post another thread - continue with this one....

Soak the fitting with PB Blaster overnight.  Use a 6-point flare nut wrench (or flare crowsfoot) to keep from crushing the line nut.

[whysohigh]

I've soaked it with pb but its too corroded for a wrench, a 9\16 is too small and a 5/8 is too big. No luck with metric either. I may just cut the hose and use a damaged nut remover socket.

[bd]

Is the steel line compromised or just the hose end... at the frame or in the caliper?

[whysohigh]

Its the steel end that attaches to the frame.

[bd]

You could try a little heat too (nothing hotter than a propane torch - be mindful of igniting a frame or engine fire), but after it's all said and done you may need to replace the steel line to the combination valve as well as the brake hose.  Once you're done with the repair and bleeding the brakes, protect the steel line and fittings with some rattle can undercoating.

[whysohigh]

I got the hose off with some heat, it dripped clean fluid so I know its getting there from the master but I still get nothing to bleed. My next move is proportioning valve I suppose.

[Da67goatman]

I bought this from summit  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179 for my suburban whenever I get to my axle swap.  I converted to rear disks and this will let me adjust the bias so i can actually have rear brakes, If your already going to spend $75 get one that lets you fix the stupid proofing.

[whysohigh]

Thank you, that might be the one I buy considering no parts store I can find has access to this part.

[whysohigh]

I have one on the way. Thanks to everyone that responded.

[whysohigh]

Ok so new proportioning valve is installed. Now I have a new issue. Once I installed it I bled the brakes and drove around for a day it was working great, just about put me through the windshield because im not used to having working brakes on the truck. Then I lost all brake function, turns out out was a leaking rear cylinder, no problem so I put a new one on, bled the rear brakes again which went fine. My problem arose as I attempted to bleed the front, it started out normal my buddy was working the pedal as I ran the bleeder screw. Nearly nothing comes out of the front, either side and the pedal just doesn't build pressure and you can't feel it drop when the bleeder screw is cracked loose. I kept trying and trying, every once in a while it will build pressure and the pedal drops with the opening of the bleeder and I get a nice solid stream of clean air free fluid. Then right back to no pressure, pedal goes right to the floor. Im about ready to take it to a shop with my tail between my legs. Any ideas?
New parts so far- front lines, hoses, calipers, prop valve, master cylinder.

[whysohigh]

Well I fixed it. What was happening was the prop valve was tripping as I was trying to bleed, there was no air so basically it was the valve doing its job and cutting off the front after losing pressure. So I kept resetting the valve via the button on the end as I bled. One final reset and a road test it stops on a dime and gives ¢2  change.