Need advice on which way to go with project

[blazing816]

Okay I will try and keep this short, but I need adivice on what to do. I bought a 4x4 frame and a near rust free 2wd c20, however found out that I really can not use the cab from the 2wd on the 4x4 with out getting a new hump. So I am thinking I am just going to find a 4x4 cab for it has I already have new fenders and doors for it. The only thing I could use from the 2wd are the gas tanks and the box (but I figure I can find those too). My 4x4 project I want to be ground up near show quality weekend crusier truck. So i am thinking of just selling the 2wd truck as I got it cheap because they said it didn't run (I got it to run in 30mins).

My question is the truck I have is a 1981 C20, 305 carb, TH350, dual tanks, Scottsdale, the paint is horriblle and needs cab corners and a few little rust spots, tailgate and rear bumper. I was thinking repaint and new interior, keeping the scottsdale trim inmind (cause there aint much left of the one in there). But my thought was is there a real market it for Scottsdale C20 and around how much would I get if I sell it??

My other thought was since it has no tailgate or rear bumper getting a roolpan and taligate and skin kit, lower 2.5" in the front and 4" in the back, nothing major just hug it a little more. Do a full interior, carpet, better seat (maybe bucket) sound dampering, and newer chrome rims (nothing huge). And that way it would be more of a resto mod crusier but since its a c20 you could still haul alot of stuff or tow. Do you think it is worth it or would I not see the return??

Any advice is helpful

The red truck is the C20 in question (with non of the stuff in the back (the light bar is already out):

[thirsty]

I think you should keep the 2wd and use it. It looks like it is in good shape. You already have just about everything to build your truck.

A 4wd hump should not be that hard to find. They don't generally rust out.

You can always put a body lift on it too. That should get your cab high enough to clear.

[Captkaos]

"See the return"  What does this mean?  If you are investing in a truck for a return on resale, a C20 Longbed isn't going to give you much in the way of that.  Shortbed 1/2T trucks are going to sell faster, so you need to decide what you are after before anyone can give you an opinion.


With that said, with some sheet metal you could make the tunnel clearance, or find a rusted 4x4 cab with a good tunnel, or put a body lift on it.

[blazing816]

Wow....I never though about putting a body lift on it...that would set me back to where I was using all the parts from the 2wd truck. See that is why I posted here....I knew there was something I was over looking. Does a body lift basically just show more of the frame?? (have never done it to any of the trucks I have owend.)

With the body lift is there anything else that needs to be changed?? or would I only need to cut a hole for the 4wd shifter to come through??

Thanks again....saved me alot of money with that idea. (as for the hump I have a hard time finding parts for these in Michigan) most of the time you can buy a $800 full rusty truck and its cheaper then just a slightly rusty cab (I learned metal work because of the harsh winters and salt that take tolls on vechiles). I will have to check the junkyard though, but I really like the body lift idea.

[thirsty]

With the body lift is there anything else that needs to be changed??

You will have to lengthen the linkages and modify the bumper brackets.

[fitz]

I've parted out a bunch of rusty 73-87's and like Thirsty said, the tranny tunnel usually does not rot out.
Hit the junkyards and take along a cordless sawzall.
If your lucky enough to find a 4x4, odds are the tunnel will be good.

[blazing816]

"Thirsty" - you mean the steering linkage, gear linkage and 4wd linkage....I am asuming all three??

"fitz" - Yeah the two junkyards by me do not allow power tools in the yard. So I have to talk to them and see what I have to do to get that type of part.

[fitz]

I'm thinking that if you find one you could unbolt the seat and remove the carpet to inspect it.
If it looks good draw your cut lines on it with a marker.
The yard can then cut it out for you. Shouldn't  over $100 parts & labor.

[thirsty]

I think all you have to do is lengthen the shift linkage if it is an automatic. Cut it and weld in a sleeve. If it has a 208 then I think you can adjust that to length.
I just realized that the last time I messed with a body lift was in the mid 80's   Hard to remember that particular truck. Anyway I am positive that there is an active member here that can say for sure what needs modifying and what will reach.

[blazing816]

Thanks thirsty .... I will prob just get one and figure it out as a go....once the snow is gone I am going to jump full force at it.

[bake74]

      Sorry a bit late.  You are on the right track, use the c-20 for parts, try to get a 4 x 4 tunnel (will look better) , if not do body lift and you will not be buying and selling trucks/parts and slowing your build progress.

[ralphhemi]

Check out  My 78 k30 Wrecker rebuild, i used a 73 c10 2x4 cab and reused my 4x4  hump from my rusty cab. Not hard at all.  The factory installed the 2nd. hump from under the cab , i put both on top, it worked out fine

[fitz]

This tunnel came off a rotted out k30 plow truck.
Solid ones are still out there.

[fitz]

Sorry,
Turns out that my smart phone isn't that smart because it can't load the pic.