Raising my truck back up.

[The-Pagemaster]

I bought this truck a few months ago. I haven't done anything to it the way it looks in the picture is how i got it from the PO. well I have decided I want to raise it back up. But im not sure where to start. I have never done anything suspension related before. I was wondering if you guys could help me out? I have enclosed an album with some pictures showing the truck and the front and rear suspension on the driver side. Hoping you guys could tell me where to start. Thanks in advance.

http://imgur.com/a/InPzb

[frotosride]

From what I can se in the pic whoever did this drop did it the easierst way. This is actually good for you because returning it should be rather easy.
Up front it looks like al that was done is a few coils were cut from the springs. A new set of factory rate springs should put the front back where is originally was and maybe even give you a little softer ride.
The rear is simply a flip kit. Basically the axle was taken from riding under the rear leaf springs and made to ride on top. The best part of the rear is it looks like the spring perches are still welded to the axle tubes. So it will be as simple as removing each spring and bolting them back up ontop of the axle. If you'd like more indepth on doing these simple things just ask.

[The-Pagemaster]

Glad to hear that. Sounds pretty straight forward. Well see if i run into any problems. I do have 2 questions. Where is the best place to get springs from? And how do I put the springs in?

Edit: Would these be what I need?   http://www.jcwhitney.com/moog-coil-springsoe-replacement/p3039828.jcwx?filterid=c11305d50255y1986g703j2

[frotosride]

You can get replacement springs from a local parts store like oreilys, advanced, autozone and tons of places online. The ones on top that you listed look like the ones you would want for a stock ride height. The spacing between the coils on the lower springs look like thay are for lowering. But yes those should do the trick. As far a getting them out...

Chalk the rear tires and put the e-brake on for safety..
Take off the tire/wheel, remove the lower ball joint nut. before you remove the lower control arm ball joint nut you need to get a chain and chain the spring coils and hold the tension.  For the most room I would reccoment removing the whole spindleassembly by unbolting the upper control arm, steering arm and sway bar. This will also give you access to replace any seals and or bearings that you may want to take out while you are there.
After placing the chain on use a hydraulic jack under the lower control arm to hold the press of the spring and it allows you to slowely lower the lower control arm releasing the spring pressure in a controlled mannor.
Your other option for removing the spring is a little safer but cost a little money initially that you can get back. Go to an auto parts store and rent an unloading tool. This will bolt to the spring itself keeping the pressure on the spring so as you lower the control arm with a jack the spring will also fall out. The best part is when you return the tool they give you all your money back if you didn't damage it.

[The-Pagemaster]

Alright maybe i will try and knock this out tomorrow if the parts store is open.

Just to make sure is this the spring set I would need?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Coil-Spring-Front/1986-Chevrolet-C10-1-2-ton-P-U-2WD/_/N-ij11jZ8oy1p?itemIdentifier=37572_195152_0_

Also I am wondering. when I replace leaf springs on semi trailers we always use new u bolts. Is that also the way passenger vehicles are done? or can i reuse the old bolts. Assuming i need to remove the u bolts to move the leaf springs

[81_Chevy]

if it was me i would just go ahead and replace them, since there not that expensive. better be safe than sorry.

[The-Pagemaster]

Alright thats what I thought.

I have a few more questions.

first what is JD3, JD5 brake system?

Second what is the difference between  these.  This is the springs autozone says I need  http://tinyurl.com/springset2     and these are what advance says I need  http://tinyurl.com/springset1

Sorry for what seems like repetitive questions. But I just want to make sure I get the right part the first time. rather then get the wrong part and not find out till I tear everything down.

Also for the rear. besides new u bolts there is no other parts I need right? just take the leaf springs from under the axle and put them on top?

[frotosride]

+1 on replacing the u-bolts. It really is cheap insurance and based on the rest of what I can see of your undercarriage it wouldn't hurt to have something under there with a little less rust especialy when the weight of your vehicle rest on it.

The springs: If the pictures oon the page are the actual coils then the spring rates are diffrent on those tweo springs. It doesn't list the actual spring rates but based on design the ones from advanced auto should have a little lower spring rate based on the distance between each coil and vice versa for the ones from auto zone. The ones from advanced may give you a gentler ride but depending on the spring rate it may maintain a slight front rake.

I would as them the spring rates and deside on which you want. If there is a huge diffrence between the two and you are going for comfort then get the ones witht he larger distance between the coils.
AS for the jd3/jd5 brake system I will research it and get back to you. Normally it's a diffrence between the years and system pressure/ bosted or not and so on but I will see if I can find the exact diffrences.

[frotosride]

The only real diffrence as I though is the stopping power. The JD3 is made for the lighter weight vehicles and lower tow ratings and the JD5 is for vehicles with gross vehicle weight of 6400lbs. Not sure exactly what the diffrent components are other than probably larger pads and rotors/drums but mostlikely a stronger booster as wel that creates higher line pressure.

[Captkaos]

Rotors are thicker on the front on a std 1" vs HD 1.25" for the 81-87 trucks.

[frotosride]

Rotors are thicker on the front on a std 1" vs HD 1.25" for the 81-87 trucks.

Make cents.... didn't think bout that part cap...

[The-Pagemaster]

You guys are awesome. Got the front done today after work. Took my 3 hours. 1 of which i spent just getting the passenger side tire off. the lug was frozen to the stud and the stud was just spinning free. was a pain in the neck to get off. had to break the stud. Now for the rear!

[fiddler]

I just did this on my 74.  In my case the lowering person cut coils off of the front and removed leafs from the back.  I just (just oh yeah just) replaced the springs and I am in business.  I found out you want to measure your springs before you order them.  Stock spring were rated at 1950 pounds.  I ordered from by year and model and got springs that were too short.  Turns out there are 52 and 56 inch springs stock in some years.  I had to pay an extra 300 dollars in shipping charges because of the error.  Just measure center bolt to end eyebolt.  If 26 inches front and back then you have the 52.  If 30 inches in the back then you have the 56.  I got a good deal from SD springs.  I could not get springs locally.  Had to special order.

ricky