headers

[PromiseKeeper]

I'm getting ready to put a different motor in my 80 C-10. I'm going to put headers on it. What recommendations do you guys have? Long... shorties? a particular brand? Summit looks to be the most economical choice I've seen.

What mufflers do you guys like with them?

[Captkaos]

A)what are you hoping to accomplish with them?
B)How much over stock is the replacement?
C)I would pay for the best header you can get, going cheap is going to end up causing you more of a hassle..

[PromiseKeeper]

Chris,
I'm hoping for a bit more power, economy and some sound. The replacement is strictly stock. I'm replacing a worn out motor, looking to be economical but dependable

[bd]

Some general criteria for street headers...

• Make sure the cylinder head flanges match your exhaust port configuration
  
  
• Look for flanges that are 5/16" minimum thickness - 3/8" thick flanges are significantly better at maintaining their flatness (less prone to warping and leaks)
  
  
• Laser-cut flanges are generally truer (flatter) than flame-cut flanges, though most flanges are sanded flat following assembly
  
  
• The durability of 16-gauge mild steel tubing is superior to 18-gauge
  
  
• Double (inner/outer) welds are typically stronger and more durable than single welds, but don't let that be a deal breaker
  
  
• Ceramic coating will outlast paint and better protect the steel from corrosion (this may not hold true in areas with salted roads).  But, on a brand new build ceramic coating can overheat and lose its luster if fuel and timing aren't correctly set or closely approximated prior to initial start-up and cam break-in
  
  
• The 'insulation benefit' of ceramic coating is insignificant - ignore the hype
  
  
• Never wrap your headers - moisture trapped by the wrap will accelerate rust-through and void your header warranty
  
  
• Long-tube is torquier than short-tube, but it's not likely that you would ever notice the difference for street use, so look for the best, most convenient fit
  
  
• Unless you've built a high-RPM fire breather, 1-5/8" primary tubes are generally satisfactory for a small block
  
  
• As Captkaos posted, don't base your purchase solely on price
  

On the mufflers, a good chambered muffler like Flowmaster or Hooker will provide good sound, torque and longevity.  Straight-through glasspacks, though economical, are not quite as performance oriented and may not last as long before blowing out their packing.

[81_Chevy]

im using flow tech headers, which is a division of hooker headers. (there long tube) i got them at oreillys for like 130, it wasnt bad and there from a reliable brand. so far they work pretty good and there was no problems. and im also using a stock engine (goodwrench 350)

-Nic

[Fairlane514]

I used Hedman shorties ceramic coated and 2 1/2 Pypes system with Summit Street/Strip mufflers. The headers fit great and the mufflers don't drone, but sound very nice.

[Magic1]

I'm using a set of ceramic coated flowtech. They fit my application pretty well and sound good. I just tried to get the best gaskets I could to prevent leaks. I got Percy's dead soft aluminum.

[cvbear]

I have a set of plain (uncoated) Hedeman headers on our crate 350.  They fit great and with some copper gaskets seal just fine.  Paper gaskets they came with were (IMO) trash and i did not use them.  Next time i will spring for the coated ones as i think they would look better for longer.  I bought the headers at the end of the engine replacement process and did not have room in the budget for coated ones.  Performance wise i don't think there is any difference between coated and uncoated.