Author Topic: Power window re-install issues. Please help!  (Read 3839 times)

Offline SUX2BU99

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Power window re-install issues. Please help!
« on: March 30, 2013, 05:14:44 PM »
I had another thread where I had window motor problems last April. Over the course of a year I've been able to get a replacement motor, remove the regulator and glass and replace the motor. I reinstalled the 'new' motor and regulator but I'm having several issues.

1. First is with the motor gear skipping on the regulator gear. I had to use a nut between the motor and the regulator bolt (x3) in order to space the motor away from the regulator for the gears to mesh what looked like properly. It looked very good but I thought it odd I had to use these nuts as spacers. I don't recall how my old motor was and it's been so long since I took it all apart. The replacement motor is from a 1975 Cadillac and the gears look in fine shape. The motor will lift the arms up and down but then will start skipping. So I want to take the regulator and motor back out. See problem 2.

2. I got the motor and regulator out once, a few months ago but I can NOT get it figured out this time. I fought with it for 2 hours. I know it's a bit of a dance, but can someone tell me at least which end comes OUT first? Is it the motor end, or the other end with the regulator arms? That will at least get me in the right direction.

3. Lastly is getting the glass back in. I put the window at 90 degree angle and put the rear roller in the track first but getting that front roller in just wouldn't happen. The front of the sash rail kept hitting the top of the door at the vent window. Any tips?

Much thanks for any input, I do appreciate it!
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline bd

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Re: Power window re-install issues. Please help!
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2013, 01:05:06 AM »
The need for makeshift spacers suggests you have the wrong motor.  You can always inspect the opposite door and compare the assemblies. 

Removal:
The regulator assembly is most easily separated from the door glass when the glass is raised almost all the way, less than 1" down.  Adhere duct tape to both sides of the glass over the top of the door to hold the glass up.  (Or, use a Phillips screwdriver slipped through a hole in the inner door panel, so that the window sash rests on the blade).  Unbolt the regulator from the inner door panel.  Slide the regulator rearward to disengage the rear roller from the window sash channel.  At the same time slide the lower roller from the fixed door rail.  Disengage the front roller from the sash channel through the notch in the channel.  Collapse the regulator and remove it from the door. 

Truthfully, I don't believe I've ever removed a regulator assembly from a door exactly the same way twice, because the motor is typically burned out.  In such cases, the way you go about it depends on how far the regulator is collapsed.  It's sort of like twirling a baton as you pass it through the access hole; generally lift arm first.  The key ingredient is patients.  Whatever you do watch out for sharp edges!  And, keep your fingers clear of the door if you power the motor. 

Installation:
The glass goes into the door before the regulator.  Put the glass in place within its channels, in the fully raised position.  Hold the glass up using duct tape over the top of the door, or use the screwdriver method.  Liberally grease all of the roller channels and the motor and regulator gears.  The installation procedure for the regulator assembly is the exact reverse of removal.  Again, keep your fingers clear if you power the motor!

As you've discovered, performing this repair will test you.  Take your time.  If it becomes frustrating, take a break.  It's just nuts and bolts... and sharp edges.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Power window re-install issues. Please help!
« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2013, 11:11:12 PM »
Thanks Rich for your reply. So more often then not you take the regulator out arms-first? I'll try that again but I'll collapse the regulator more and see if that helps.

It would behoove me if GM used different window motors with varying depths during the 70's but I guess stranger things have happened....
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Power window re-install issues. Please help!
« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2013, 09:45:34 PM »
So after more than a year, it's all in and working! A couple of KEY elements when working on the power windows:

1. As Rich said, put the sliders in the window FIRST before bolting the regulator in. Suspend the window by a couple of pieces of tape acting as 'saddles' to hold the window in, then put the one track wheel in the lower track guide that's on the door and then raise the window regulator up (you may have to play a little with up and down to get it), get the rear wheel in the middle notch of the window sash rail and then put the front track wheel in. Again, you will have to play with the window switch up/down to move the arms around.

2. When putting the window in, you have to rotate it 90 degrees from normal. Nobody ever say which 90 degrees to rotate it! You drop it in with the front edge down and then rotate it back. Just like you remove it by rotating the back edge up. I was trying to do it the other way and it wasn't good.

3. I also put my regulator in first and then put my glass in. That's not a big deal, just don't INSTALL the regulator until you have the glass in position otherwise you just will not get the track wheels in the channels if the regulator is bolted in.

You're welcome for saving you hours of frustration :)
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.