Quadrajet Carberator

[Steve341]

All in all my oil is not dirty with that kind of mileage

[Steve341]

Rather cool day out here. And yup dropped oil on my finger from the dipstick and it runs down my finger prints and my finger smells like I've dipped it into pure gasoline.

[Steve341]

So what your telling me is my fuel pump is the cause of the stumble and hesitation? If I slowly bring it to 30 mph it will be fine there. If I floor it the motor cuts right out for a second then 4 barrel kicks in briefly and hesitates. Wants to stall and starts running rough when I stop at stop sign red light etc some of the time so I pop the automatic in neutral and rev it.

[Steve341]

Here is the pump I bought. All the same it's just got the inlets on the wrong side. It's a carter M60191 incase you cannot read the photo

[Steve341]

[Steve341]

Metal line connection to carb does line up like I said I cannot get the fitting started. Might try disconnecting at the carb slacken the metal line start the threads on the pump before I install it. Also when I reinstalled the push rod I used vasoline as it worked great to hold it up. Can I use it or should it be lithium grease

[farmerchris]

sound like you got the wrong pump for your application,same style pump,but different application have the inlets and outlets in different directions, need to get the pump made for your truck

[farmerchris]

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=296125&cc=1031971,   here a link to the right # for reference for your application.

[454Man]

I just went through this with my AC delco pump I got from rock.... I ended up getting a fitting and some ethonal proof rubber fuel hose.

[bd]

Take the fuel pump back for the correct one!  Every aftermarket manufacturer copies ACDelco (the OEM supplier), so Delco supplies the preferred pump, though Carter should be satisfactory.  The Haynes referenced 'spacer' is actually a ~1/8" steel plate that sandwiches between the fuel pump and the block; two additional bolts have to be removed to remove the plate.  It's not necessary to remove the plate and, in fact, best to leave it alone, unless you're trying to resolve an oil leak from the pump mounting area.  You can reuse the gasket with a thin smear of silicone sealer as long as the gasket isn't torn.

Steel lines can be a pain, even with the correct pump in hand!  Using a 5/8" flare nut wrench, loosen the steel line from the carburetor.  On some vehicles, you also may have to loosen a clamp that secures the steel line to the engine block.  Don't take any more apart than you absolutely have to, to start the threads.  After you've installed the pump on the block, wrap two turns of Teflon tape around the threads of the line nut and then carefully start the nut with your fingers.  Before tightening the nut at the pump, wrap two turns of Teflon tape around the line nut threads at the carburetor end, and start it into the carb inlet nut.  Make sure both nuts are started without cross-threading!  Now tighten both line nuts using a flare nut wrench.  Be sure to back up the carb inlet nut with a 1" open-end and the fuel pump outlet fitting (maybe a 3/4" open-end) before cinching down on the respective tubing nuts.  By the way, the Teflon tape doesn't 'seal' the tubing threads, it just lubricates the threads so they will tighten adequately without distorting.  Effectively seating the line to the flare is what seals the connection.

So what your telling me is my fuel pump is the cause of the stumble and hesitation? ....

I'm not claiming this at all.  Reading through the thread you definitely had other issues that needed to be addressed - and you corrected them.  Now, it's time to correct this one.  Until the cause of the oil dilution is resolved and the oil and filter are changed you'll never be able to resolve your original complaint or even know whether it still exists beyond "excess fuel in the oil."

But, look at this experience from a positive point of view....  You have a CLEAN crankcase!   

[Steve341]

What was the link for that pump? Seems it disappeared

[bd]

By application, your 1975 C20 w/454 calls for an ACDelco 40963.  The ACDelco 40963 pump appears similar to the image you posted, above. 

The Carter pump from Rock Auto is here:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=296125&cc=1031971,   here a link to the right # for reference for your application.

If your original pump's line configuration appears the same, then either of these pumps will work.

[Steve341]

I need to put longer rubber hose for the pump I got now to work. I can try installing it with longer hose. Can I buy 45/90 degree angles for this?

[bd]

Fuel hose pretty much comes in straight lengths.  You need to be careful that the hose doesn't rub or chafe, and doesn't kink.  The best approach is to use a pump that's properly configured for the chassis routing and location of the existing steel lines.  Your local parts house should be able to help with fittings for custom lines.

[80Chevy4x4]

Here is a real carburetor website....it even has rebuilding video's.


 http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Free-Carburetor-Manuals_ep_274.html