4-speed trans won't go back in all the way

[Irish_Alley]

You shouldn't have to force it. If everything lines up try to put it in gear in4x2 and spin the back tire a little with that leverage it should move a little

[74 C-10 Shorty]

There's something binding if you have to use force, it should just slide right in if everything is lined up the way it should be..

[zieg85]

At 1.33" off you are into the splines on the clutch disc but not into the pilot bushing.  Could someone have pushed the clutch in and the disc is off center now?  I have had a third person help by pushing the clutch in while under the truck pushing the trans into place. My $02...

I am telling you if it was together once before your clutch disc is not centered.  Hook up the clutch linkage like I suggested... been there done that..

[ChaseDale3and8]

It has a hydraulic clutch. I know it has to be perfectly in line before its going to slide the rest of the way and I don't have it perfectly aligned yet top to bottom or side to side. Think ill start as has been suggested by getting it all in line best as I can then try to push it in from behind. If that doesn't work I'll have somebody push the clutch pedal and see what happens. It is eventually going to have to go in whether it wants to or not! ....Joe

[74 C-10 Shorty]

Get one of these $3.00 items and and line it up and it'll slide right in.

[Captkaos]

Make sure the centerline of the crank and the trans input are in line with each other.   Sometimes you have to drop the back of the motor or raise the front of the trans.

[ChaseDale3and8]

Chris I think that's the main problem I'm having. I have an angle finder but I'm trying to figure out a way or a spot to measure on the transmission that would be centered with the input shaft on the transmission. Engine is easy since the pan rail is parallel to the crankshaft. Is there a spot on the trans that's suitable to measure from? .....Joe

[Captkaos]

It doesn't have to be perfect, just close.  I just eyeballed it till it looked right.
If you have to get it measure from the bell on the trans to the bell mount on the engine, make sure all of them are the same top to bottom.

[Irish_Alley]

a jack under both so you can move one or the other up or down just keep in mind the distributor cap hitting the firewall

[ChaseDale3and8]

I took the distributor out before I dropped the trans out so no worries there. It may be a little bit before I can get back under the truck as I had a heart attack on Thursday and I'm still recuperating. I'll post again as soon as I'm able to. I appreciate the help and info! That's why I love this site so much! Lots of great people here!  .....Joe

[Irish_Alley]

Glad to here your doing better since the attack. Take your time with it

[74 C-10 Shorty]

Sorry to hear about the attack, take it easy and hope you get well soon..

[ChaseDale3and8]

Well guys I finally have an update! It's back in, and all in one piece again and running! This is how I did it after much head scratching and plenty of help from you all. Saturday I just got to the pinnacle of frustration with it so I pulled the whole mess back out. Checked the clutch alignment with my plastic tool. Everything was still in line. So what I did was put my angle finder on the back of the bell housing to see where the engine was at subtracted 90 degrees and came up with 15 degrees for the crank centerline. Next, I checked the angle of the input shaft and checked the rib on the outside of the transmission on the driver side. It was within 2 degrees so I figure I could wiggle it that much if need be. So, I started jacking up the 2 jacks I was using. One under the transmission, and the other under the tail shaft on the transfer case. Hooked a chain around the front axle next to the pumpkin. Put a come a long on the front trans jack at one end and the chain at the other. Started inching it in and adjusting the jacks to keep it at 15 degrees ( had the angle finder on trans rib the whole time ) once it got to where it was 3/4 inch or so out, I needed to re-adjust the trans transfer angle a bit. I did that and POP she went! I heard and saw it line up. At that point I started the bell housing bolts all in and inched it in the rest of the way with them. Jacked the back the rest of the way up got my impact out and the new grade 8 bolts that I bought for it and it was a done deal! Put the rest of it back together got it running and moved it under its own power for the first time in over a YEAR! What a relief! Thank God this nightmare is over! I learned a lot from this little experience and hope some day this post helps someone else! Now I need to change the oil and filter and do some fine tuning and hit the road!!! Many thanks to all of you great board members here. I'm so glad this place exists! My battery was dead when I started it up today. I noticed the choke light on the dash was on without the ignition being on. I figured this had to have been the culprit. Don't know why the choke light is always on now. Any ideas? Thanks guys!  .....Joe