Repair 83 GMC SWB 2wd Rockers, cab corners, footwells, and more

[nlauffer]

I would like some opinions on what I should do about the rust repairs.  I have never replaced rockers or cab corners, but do have some welding skills (not much).  I bought a driver's side rocker, both cab corners, and lower rear bedside patch.  I'm thinking about getting footwell patches, fender lip panel, and something for the floor pan edge. 

In the photos, I was curious about the drivers side rocker panel, should I replace the whole thing or just the areas of rust.  Which is easier? 

[nlauffer]

Two more
Front Passenger side fender and Rear driver's side lower bedside.

[nlauffer]

This is a cab floor outer section.  Where does it actually go or replace.  Is it what I need for my floor sections near the footwell.

[HAULIN IT]

That is the Lt. inner rocker panel. It goes just like it's sitting...closing off the floor straight down to the bottom of the pinchweld of the rocker. That one does not go all the way to the front, it stops @ the front cab mount. Lorne

[nlauffer]

Well I have removed drivers door and fender. I have new hinges to install. Should I do that before replacing rocker so I can get it lined up? 

[Irish_Alley]

weld a piece of metal from front to back of the door jam, this will hold it in place while you cut and should keep everything lined up like it was

[nlauffer]

What about cab corner?  Should I replace it before, after, or at same time as rocker?  And I was thinking about rocker alignment when I mentioned hinge replacement. What I meant was get the hinges aligned so the door hangs correct so I can make sure the door will shut and is even on top of rocker before welding it in.

[Irish_Alley]

well the doors are adjustable so as long as they are close now and you keep everything square you should be good. and do it all at once

[HAULIN IT]

I have new hinges to install. Should I do that before replacing rocker so I can get it lined up? 

Yes, you want to have good hinges (good used, new pins & bushings or new) so there is no movement. Next, you want to install the door your going to use...align to get proper fitment around all of the areas not being replaced (& preferably whats left of the rocker, cab corner, ect. fits as well).
As Irish mentioned, I like to weld a piece of angle iron on the inside of the door opening on the cab...just below where the door trim panel would be. This allows you to open & close the door while fitting & welding while being sure you will end up where you want. This is not needed if the floorpan & understructure of the cab is still ok...it will maintain the proper location while the rocker is cut off.
Words of caution: If the floor is bad, most cabs will need the cowl/windshield area jacked forward to get the door to align properly.

What about cab corner?  Should I replace it before, after, or at same time as rocker? 

   
It needs to be replaced after the rocker so you can completely weld the rocker to the inner cab structure & inner cab corner. Do not worry if the back vertical of the rocker is long to the original grooves & place where the original was (virtually every one I've done is this way), but some where short & needed "manipulated" back to allow for a proper gap for the cab corner. The cab corner in the area where you'll be fixing has no effect on strength of the cab...it's just a piece of metal covering the opening. Hope this helps, Lorne

[nlauffer]

I've decided to not remove the entire rocker. I am taking out most of it but leaving the back part where it starts to curve up. The front I'm gonna cut about a 45 degree angle through the curve. I'm just worried about messing it up so I'm going a little at a time. The good thing is that most of the rocker and corners are solid so I have plenty of metal around the edges where everything attached before.
I have a Dewalt battery powered cut off saw. Is this ok to use or should I be using my die grinder and little skinny wheels? 

[nlauffer]

I drilled out the spot welds and some of them are coming loose.  I had a city council meeting and then got paged out on a chest pain call.  Needless to say, truck didn't get anymore attention.  What is the best method for removing the metal after drilling spotwelds.  I am just using pliers and prybar.  It works but is slow.  Am I missing something.  I have read and watched about every post on here and youtube about this, but none document the actual removal process.  my guess is that it is such a pain in the --- that pictures are the last thing on anyones mind.

I am bad about taking during pictures. I never think about it until after.  I'll try to remember and get some up tonight.

[jaredts]

I use an old, large flathead screwdriver as a chisel.  Pound it between the two panels near the spot weld with a hammer and the spot weld should pop apart.

[nlauffer]

I am getting better at the spotwelds and just ordered more patch panels.  Unfortunately, not from this sight, as I didn't think I wanted to wait.  Should have.  Bad times have come here at work.  Looks like I'm the new Director, but under bad terms.  Don't think I'll be getting much done for awhile.  I'm still gonna try to do just a piece at a time here and there.  Again, I suck at remembering to take pictures and the last ones I took you couldn't see because of garage lighting. 

Anyone want to do some sheetmetal repair.

[nlauffer]

Here are some of those pics.


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[nlauffer]

I got one of the last pieces in today. I just need to finish getting the old stuff off.


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