electric choke issue

[diphthong]

Irish_Alley

Oh...my bad.  You never said in your previous post to actually have the sitting around spark plug also connected to a spark plug wire.

Just a simple misunderstanding. :-)



I once had a shop owner tell me "it's possible to have just one plug wire crossed"   :-)

[diphthong]

Back to business,

cwilson jr,

Is your truck running right, are you happy with your rig?  I promise you we can help you get it running right.   I serviced 35 UPS trucks of the same year as your rig.  Help me help you, tell me in as few works as possible what's the running problems with your truck and what do you think is wrong.   


I once had a shop owner tell me "it's possible to have just one plug wire crossed"   :-)

[Irish_Alley]

Yes timing light is best but whenever I need to test a firing problem or no start I don't have it so I find another way to test. Its never to late to learn something new

[diphthong]

I need to verify some things:

In a Earlier post you said you had fuel at the same time as the car wouldn't start, is this correct? And how did you know you had fuel, was I correct when I guessed you saw the accelerator pumps working? (Important)

How are you determining you have no spark? (Important) 
Check for spark at more then one wire.

Do you know the difference between ported and manifold vacuum? (manifold vacuum sucks at idle)

If you can get the engine running I need you to connect your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum source and see if this kills the engine. Connect the vacuum line going to your vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum source 6-7 times In succession.


If this Doesn't kill the engine does it at least speed up a RPM's a little bit?









I once had a shop owner tell me "it's possible to have just one plug wire crossed"   :-)

[cwilson jr]

i'm going to take another look at my pickup in the next day or so.  i dont think its a fuel issue, because i'm looking at my clear external filter always being filled with fuel and besides  i did have fuel issues about 1-2 months ago when i replaced the pump, lines and removed the carb. filter and put a clear external in, so everything is pretty new.

as far as ignition, when it first gave me issues, (once heated up), it would turn over, but did not try to fire up at all and since i could see i was getting fuel, i just assumed an there was an ignition prob.

so, far, i tried starting it the next day and it was starting, but missing.  once running for about a minute, everything was fine.  i let it run for a while in park trying to get it to cut out and it didn't.  messed around with the choke a little (described in my earlier post and locked it into a position where it triggered the light, took it for extensive test runs, and it never ran better, so at this point i'm  thinking there is something wrong with the electric choke or vac. brake?

i haven't messed with it since.  i'll see what i find out tomorrow or the next day.

[diphthong]

You said:
'i let it run for a while in park trying to get it to cut out and it didn't.'

Your engine did 'cut out' was this cut out like a switch turning off your engine, or like a lot of sputtering and spiting and then died?

**********

You said:
'as far as ignition, when it first gave me issues, (once heated up), it would turn over, but did not try to fire up at all and since i could see i was getting fuel, i just assumed an there was an ignition prob.'


It just occurred to me you may not know what accelerator pumps are, and I need to be 100% sure about the fuel.
There are things that can be wrong which won't allow the fuel into the carburetor even if your external filter level looks good.

Do this:
Let your engine run a few seconds, now with the engine NOT RUNNING prop the choke open if closed, with a flash light  look about half way down inside the front two barrels, while looking in move the throttle open about 3/4 inch then let it close. Do you see gas being sprayed from little brass nozzle in each barrel, keep doing until it stops spraying, how many squirts did you get?

If you see the pumps working and your engine will not fire at all, it's a 100% not a fuel problem, and you really do have a Intermittent ignition problem.  Once you do this test I can move on to other things.  If you do this test when your engine is starting, we can assume the mechanical fuel pumps are consistent.

This test works best if the throttle Isn't moved at all before you start the test.

****************

You said:
'messed around with the choke a little (described in my earlier post and locked it into a position where it triggered the light, took it for extensive test runs, and it never ran better'

Are you saying here you drove with you choke in a partly closed position and your engine ran better?

Do you know if your choke opens all the way when warmed up?  (Important)

****************

I'm going back way over 20 years now but I think your choke light activates only if the heater element opens, or there is low oil pressure. I could be blowing smoke with that, but that's what I recall about that system.

If your ambient temperature would allow your rig to start, it sure would be nice if you could wire your choke open while we're in a troubleshooting mode.


I once had a shop owner tell me "it's possible to have just one plug wire crossed"   :-)

[Irish_Alley]

it ok dp no one is perfect lol. but yeah back to this engine. to add to what dp said. that clear filter if i can remember right it feeds from the outside in. so if you have stuff on the screen it wouldnt let it reach the fuel bowl fast enough. just for grins take it apart and use carb cleaner or something and spray the filter from the inside out to rise it out.