homemade flipkit?

[shaved80]

would it be possible to use the stock u bolts to flip the rear end? using shims to get the right angle of course

[toplessblazer]

Go over to Aim in mesa and buy a set of their axle flip brackets for your truck. They are only like 30 or 40 dollars and will save a lot of work. They have the locator hole offset to center the wheel in the wheel opening and have the correct pinion angle built in. And yes your factory ubolts will work with the brackets they sell. If you weld new spring pads to the bottom of your axle and try to install the rearend your wheels will be setting towards the front of the wheel opening unless you drill different holes in you new spring pads. You are going to have to put your stock spring hangers back on in order to have enough clearance for the axle flip.  

[roundedline]

In flipping the axle, you really need longer U-bolts.

Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project

[toplessblazer]

I used my factory u bolts with my flip brackets and have the same amount of thread showing with the rearend on top of the springs as I did with it on the bottom of the springs. about a 1/4 inch of thread pass the nut. How much do you need?  

[RSBAD454]

Just buy a Belltech flip kit and be done with it......all the parts you need and great quality.

Toys are my game

[roundedline]

I personally prefer having a minimum of the diameter of the bolt extended past the nut.

Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project

[shaved80]

i went ahead and bought a McGaughys flip kit...it says it's a 6" flip!    i thought they were only 4"? someone told me i can't use it with my drop hangers and shackles (which i think is BS), true? and where do i get a shock extender...or do i even need one? and will i need bump stops? i'm gonna be putting in a 4" step notch instead of a bolt in c-notch.

Edited by: shaved80 at: 10/2/05 12:03 am

[toplessblazer]

You can try it but I would almost bet you anything that your driveshaft is going to be hitting on either a cross brace on the frame or the cab itself. Also the rear of the truck will be so low that you won't be able to get the front down far enough to have the truck set level and be drivable without bags.
My first attemt at lowering a 78 2wd blazer back in 1992 I thought I could flip the rear add a cnotch and also thought a 2 inch block kit would be just what the doctor ordered. But i soon discovered that my drive shaft was resting on one of the frames crossmembers and the pumkin was hitting the bed floor as soon as I sat the truck on the ground. Also had three inch spindles on the blazer and had to remove the springs completely to get  the truck close to level. Then realized that the A-arms were sitting on the ground and the truck wouldn't move.
So lets do the math...  mine.. 6" flip/c-notch + 2" block = no worky
Yours 6" flip + 4" hangers = A ton of frame and body mods for the clearance for everything to function properly.
Again I am not trying to talk trash or discourage you I am just telling of my past experiences and what worked or didn't work for me.
Please let us know how it turns out if you try it.

[shaved80]

i didn't even think about the driveshaft hitting. then i remembered that i had planned on doing this...



as for the bed, i'm gonna be cutting out a section like this



and if it's way too low, i can always adjust the hangers, they have holes to go anywhere from 1-4"  

[RSBAD454]

you running air bags?

Toys are my game

[shaved80]

no bags...yet. i need to focus on putting my money into the motor and the axle. but hopefully i will have bags soon, i just got a $3 raise  

i installed the flipkit, but have yet to put in the notches, so the axle is resting on the bump stops. feels like i'm riding in a stage coach lol i'll be putting in stock hangers/shackles and welding in a 4" step notch

everything seems to run fine, just one question. when i floor it, it nose dives to the right, then i let off and it goes to the left. i'm thinking this has to do with my bent frame and not the flip kit. the right front fender is 25 1/2" off the ground, and the left is 27", yes i know horrible, i never have time to take it to a shop.

Edited by: shaved80 at: 10/13/05 6:07 pm

[roundedline]

Do you KNOW the frame is bent?

Measuring fender heights won't reveal a bent frame.  It is normal for every car to settle at different heights.  We fixed one with a tweaked frontend and other than looking like the front was twisted to one side, everything height wise looked normal, until you opened the hood.

1.5" difference is pretty "normal" with dropped components.  Swap the springs to different sides.

Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project

[shaved80]

yes i know the frame is bent. it rolled off of a little embankment, and hit a curb right int he middle and tweaked it. i've even used centerline gauges

Edited by: shaved80 at: 10/13/05 11:03 pm

[RSBAD454]

How can you tell from these pics that the frame is bent?