New/Rebuild Options

[rich weyand]

I wouldn't spend the money on the port job.  Camming is more important at the lower rpms you're talking about, where flow rates aren't the issue.

If you want to rework the motor, I would probably: change out the rod and main bushings; ridge ream the bores and measure them, and depending on where they're at put .010" or .020" over rings in them; knurl the piston skirts; put in new valve seals and maybe guides; grind and lap the valves and seats; new valve springs; new lifters; a 12-235-2 Comp Cam; shorten the tires to 31x10.5 on 8x15 rims; correct the speedometer.  I did that way back in the day with a 100,000 mile engine and ran it another 150,000 miles with no problems.  The head work takes a couple hours for somebody with the right equipment -- no big deal as far as $$$.  Money was a big deal for me then, and I got out cheap this way.

You could also go headers, decent mufflers, and a dual-plane intake.  Do that and you're pushing 400 ft lbs and 300 hp at low enough rpms to enjoy it.

You'd get the same results with the base GM crate with the Comp 12-235-2 cam, headers, decent mufflers, and a dual-plane intake if you don't want to do the work.

Of course, if you're looking at crate engines, with a little more money....  LOTS of options!

[frotosride]

Froto, I had been looking at the vortec heads. The only reason I questioned keeping the 193's I currently have is because everything I read says they are designed to be fuel efficient and produce low end torque. Many people say the vortecs do not do any better unless you are running above 4500 rpm. It's rare that I ever run that many rpm's. In addition I do not have to buy a new intake or do anything else to make 193's run on my truck. I have to buy a new intake and take care of the egr plumbing to run vortec heads in addition to buying the heads themselves. What are your thoughts?  You are running a truck equipped about like I want, do you run above 4500 rpm during daily driving?

Thanks again everyone for you thoughts. It has helped.

Your intake will bolt right up to the actual vortech heads with out mods. The 193's were the beginning of the "vortech" bolt pattern. On top of that If you plan on keeping the factory intake and TBI you are only limiting yourself. The vortech heads were designed to completely replace the 193's and are more efficient and make more low-end torque than the 193's and if you have ever looked into the intake ports just under the valves you will see why. 193's were the first "vortech" commonly known as swirl port heads. They have the same bolt pattern as the actual vortech head and use the same center bolt valve covers. The 193's were the first to have a large ramp in the intake ports to cause the swirling effect. Problem is this ramp is so large the is greatly restricts flow and thus power at either end of the rmp range. It's your call but There are plenty of other heads that will out perform the vortech heads for a little more $$ just keep the intake runners below 190cc's if you are keeping it standard bore and stroke.