Author Topic: Wipers stopped dead, changed switch and motor still no go (2 spd) 82 chev c20  (Read 12184 times)

Offline nick

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Subject pretty much states it all. I have an 82 chev c20 2wd. 2spd wipers. I originally had problems with the washer fluid not turning off , then after a while I couldn't get them to work at all. Mow my wipers have stopped dead, if changed the switch the motor checked the fuses and connections and I can't find any thing. Both motors will draw volts on the gauge when I cycle the wiper switch but still won't go. Is there maybe a relay i can't find?  Thanks Nick

Offline Boone83K10

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Kind of hard to read what you have done for diagnostics...so go down this list.

Check fuse - if blown replace
Check connections at back of switch and motor - if switch bad, replace.
Check wiper arms below the cowl to see if they are connected to wiper motor - if not, then reattach.
Check wiring from switch to motor for bad wiring.


If all else fails..get a BFH.
1966 Mercury Comet - Built 429 (First Car/Show Car)
1983 Chevrolet K10 - Built 350 (Winter Toy)
1992 Chevrolet Lumina Euro (Sold @ 265,000 miles)
2003 Ford Escape 4x4 - Mac Perf. Intake/Exhaust (Wifes' DD)
2007 Mercury Milan - Steeda Tuned (Summer Toy)

Offline DnStClr

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There's no relay, Nick. At the bottom elect. connector, there are 3 pins, designated 19, 18, and 17.  You should get b+ (12v dc) at the far left pin (19) on the electrical connector when the switch is turned . Or, a test light should light up if that's what you check b+ voltage with.  Use the other 2 pins for ground. While leaving one test lead attached to 19,The middle pin will be used for ground when you check the fast speed and pin 17 will be used for ground when you check slow speed. I hope that makes sense.
 Since you've already replaced the motor,
If no voltage, either a ground is bad, or the 30 amp fuse, or wiring from fuse to the connector.
If voltage is ok, you probably have to remove the cowl and look for a binding drive rod, or the crank arm is loose in its connection to the rod.
 (I think there's a reset-type circuit breaker, but it's part of the motor internals.)
Don
87 Chevy Silverado

Offline nick

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Ok finally had a chance to check the motor, it seems when the motor is off, I have power out of every pin on all 3 wires! Power on low I have power on all but 2 grey wires on the top 2 plugs, and on high power on all 3 plugs seven wires total but the 2 grey wires again have slightly less power going to them as the test light lights up a bit dimmer... And this is on both motors, I can not find where it would be shorting out, wires are all stock clean and in good condition.

Online bd

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Nick, you have more than one problem...
  • Regarding the motor not working - your w/wiper motor and washer pump receive 12 volts (via white wires) whenever the ignition is switched ON.  That's why all the motor pins are hot when you check them.  They aren't shorted!  The wiper/washer switch grounds the w/wiper motor and w/washer solenoid to complete the respective circuits and energize the wipers and washer pump.  The dash switch is on the 'ground side' of the appliance.  As DnStClr posted, it sounds like you have an open ground (black wire) to the wiper/washer switch mounted in the dash.

  • Regarding the washer pump never shutting OFF - either the pink wire plugged into the washer pump solenoid is 'grounded' somewhere between the solenoid and the dash switch, or the nylon "ratchet gear" hidden under the plastic motor cover is stripped, the ratchet "pawl spring" is dislodged/missing, the nylon "dog spring" is broken, or the pump cam is damaged.  The most common scenario is the ratchet gear and/or dog spring.

Take a look at the 1982 Service Manual and 1983 Wiring Manual in our Technical Pages for illustrated troubleshooting/repair details.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)