84 K10 5.3 Vortec 4l60e swap help..pointers

[farmerchris]

earl's has a factory fuel system push fit adapter to a/n allowing you to go braid steel or aluminum line to your fuel tank,then adapt to the ls fuel rails.here the part number http://www.holley.com/AT991966ERL.asp

[84Silverado4x4]

Those connectors are nice!  I guess on the cam topic I am more or less not wanting to spend a ton to do it.  If there is a good cam that does a good bank for the buck I would probably do it.  I just don't want to get a crazy lift or duration that turns into needing to change out valve springs, lifters, pushrods, etc.... Unless there is a budget setup... the work is easy but I don't have a lot of cash to spend on it right now.  I would love a lumpy idle and the power it would probably make but it's a 4x4 daily driver and I'm trying to get some gas mileage out of it.

[Captkaos]

All of this is in my build thread http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=12120 , but...

The radiator out of the current truck 86.


Power steering bolts up, there is only one hose, the other one clamps on, Use the lines from the pump.


For the cam, I would leave it alone if you are after gas mileage.

For fuel lines, I would use braided line just measure how much you need to make it to the frame lines. 
-6 AN braided Fuel line,
You will need fittings for the rail: GM quick connect to -6AN adapters for the Intake lines
Fittings for the -6 back to frame lines: 14mm/16mm O-ring to -6AN adapters

I got all my stuff from Pure Choice Motorsports

And you can either use EFI clamps and EFI flex hose for the tank
OR you can cut off the barb end of the sending unit tube and adapt them to -6 AN and run braided from the tank to the rest.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-165106erl This is 3/8" you will need 5/16" also...

[84Silverado4x4]

Thanks Chris,  I've been through the build thread a few times just didn't pick all of this up so thanks for your patience.  As for the fuel lines with the 06 5.3 will I be running a return line?  I see you said I will also be needing 5/16 line. Just unfamiliar with these engines and was thinking that on these years I read they didn't have a return.

[Captkaos]

The 06 would be return less. But that just means a line isn't coming from the intake.  For that you need a regulator filter like what came on a Corvette.  It will still have a feed and return.

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
captkaoscustoms.com
squarebody.biz

[84Silverado4x4]

ok I will need the vette filter regulator.  What year was that from again?  I just picked up the engine today and getting the trans tomorrow.  Does the pump run constant keyed or will the computer control it?  I'm guessing with the vette set up it runs full time when key is on?  Also I didn't get an air box but made sure to get a MAF sensor....where do these mount on the intake...how far from the throttle body?  Just wondering incase I make my own intake set up

[Captkaos]

99-up(04)
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=425/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd425.htm

The ECM turns on the pump and it runs all the time

The MAF should be about 6" away with straight section before and after.

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
captkaoscustoms.com
squarebody.biz

[84Silverado4x4]

I decided since AN fittings and braided lines can get pretty spendy I will be doing them in the factory connectors and plastic tubing for a try.  I got a complete oe fuel line kit and the corvette filter regulator.  I am wondering what I do with the three lines coming off the sending unit.  I understand the one coming off the pump will go through the regulator filter  and to the fuel rail.  The other will be the return from the regulator.  Do I plug or vent the third?  The truck had dual tanks but I will only be running a drivers side tank.   Also I have the Dakota digital VHX gauges and I was wondering if the stock oil and water senders will work with these.  The water temp sender is pretty easy to change so thats not a problem but the oil sender is a little tougher to get at and I wish I would have swapped that out before I set the motor in the truck.  

[84Silverado4x4]

I think I figured out my sending unit dilemma out.  I tapped the oil cooler block off above the oil filter and put my oil sender there.  I also installed the water temp sender in the coolant line fitting coming from the block on the rear passenger side.  I'm not sure what this is normally used for but this seemed like a good spot for it.  Also does anyone know what the lines running from the front of each head and running together under the throttle body are?  It is a small line that appears to be coolant.  Just wondering what I should do with it.

[Captkaos]

The oil sender could have went to the back of the block behind the intake. 
The line at the front is the steam line it should be routed to the radiator.

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
captkaoscustoms.com
squarebody.biz

[84Silverado4x4]

I set the engine in and am getting the transmission ready to bolt up to it.  I have the advance adapters 4l60e to np208 conversion however the 4l60e has the stock shaft in it and the speed sender pickup is a touch large on the shaft and I can't get it to tighten down on it.  Anyone have a good solution without having to tear the trans apart and installing a 700 shaft in it?  I was thinking maybe some shim stock?

[84Silverado4x4]

Now that I think about it I have a cable ran speedo off my transfer case and I should be able to use the dakota digital sender there and I wouldn't need the speed sensor pickup on the shaft if I'm right?

[SomeTexan]

Yup, your speedo on a 4x4 goes to the t-case.

[Irish_Alley]

yeah i confirmed with tci that their tcu will work with the dakota speed sensor their response was
 "That particular speed sensor should work with our unit. For most diesel applications we generally recommend that you would pull the tach signal from the negative side of the alternator." now that is for the tcu idk about stock ecm

[84Silverado4x4]

Well I have the engine/transmission/ and transfer case bolted in place.  I have the engine set back all the way on the mounts and it just clears the front cross brace and sits just in front of the firewall.  It looks like my front slip drive shaft will just make it without modification but the rear only has a bout a 1/2 to 5/8" clearance from bottoming out so I may need to shorten it some....I will check with the drive shaft shop tomorrow and see what they suggest.  I'm not sure yet If I can make my column shift work from the 700r4 to the 4l60e but i may have to use a lokar shift linkage kit...has anyone used one?  I think I will also need a lokar flexible dipstick.  What are people using for a dipstick on these?  Still not sure what I want to use for a radiator and fan set up.  Anyone have opinions on what I should use?  I have been looking at a champion set up and maybe some 14" fans or possibly the windstar set up.