85 Chevy K10 10bolt to 14b FF question

[Edemich]

I have a 14b FF from a 2001 HD chevy truck that I am swapping into my K10 for added width, gear ratio, disc brakes and added durability.

So I have 3 questions.

I am moving spring perches and shock mounts to accommodate my truck.

1.    What would be an ideal angle to set the axle at for an eventual 6" lift to reduce the angle of the driveshaft at the yoke once lift is installed?

2.    Best place for shocks.  I have read the more vertical they are the better they work.  For wheeling I assume back side of axle and not hanging below housing.  Any other suggestions?

3.   Other than a proportioning valve, what other considerations might I need to check into for the
Disc brakes to work trouble free?

Thanks

[Irish_Alley]

1. 6" you dont have to worry about the angle for the driveshaft.
2. look at what the manufactures does, they dont pay engineers money to just say hey this will fit here. but different companys do things a little different dodge puts one on the front side and the other on the rear side.
3. since you covered the P valve i think you have it covered

[Edemich]

Thanks Irish.  So just set it to whatever the current 10 bolt angle is now.  Thanks. 

Think I will move the shocks inboard and as vertical as I can get them.  I am looking at the ORD lift with their custom springs for the claimed softer ride. 

Rigging the parking brake may be challenging but I will try and post some pics of the process.

[Engineer]

The more vertical the shocks are the better they will dampen the cycling of the suspension.

The reason our trucks have the shocks canted forward and backward is to dampen the axle wrap from accelerating, and braking. You may not want to go full vertical unless you are using some type of ladder/traction bar.



If you are going to cut the spring perches off you may try rotating the housing upward until you get both u-joints in the same phase. To do this you need to set the new perches on the axle, set the springs on the perches, then put the weight of the truck on the springs with the tires on it on level ground.

Now, rotate the front of the axle upward until the axle's u-joint has the same angle as the front u-joint on the rear drive shaft. Ideally you may want the axle joint to have about 1° less angle than the front. Under no circumstance do you want the axle u-joint to have more angle than the transmission end.

Then weld the perches so engine torque won't break them loose.

I never needed a proportioning valve with any rear disc swap, but since I do not know the piston size of your calipers YMMV. You may try it with out the proportioning valve first. If it constantly locks the rears before the fronts then you will need a pressure reduction to the rear.

[Irish_Alley]

since disk will require more pressure than drums. if you just throw a set on there they will not work to the full potential that they could and this will counter the reason why you put disk on to begin with.