85 C10 Cylinder Heads Assembled

[jbreeves85C10]

OK...so I am a newbie and obviously not too bright of a mechanic wanna be. I bought all new valves, push rods, springs, lifters, seals, rockers, etc. to overhaul my heads since I floated a valve. I was talking to my cousin and he informed me that I would have to have a valve job done on each head to get everything right and that the best thing to do was to buy fully assembled heads that have all of this done and tuned already. I check with Napa and I can return all of my purchases so I've been looking around and could use some suggestions.
Do I want to get a cam / heads combo?
The cam is probably stock hydraulic  for the 5.7L 350 but I am pulling it shortly to verify.
The current head code is GM 333882.
TH700 trannie with most likely stock converter. Don't know the rear end gearing specs yet but 4 speed automatic.
Pistons have .030 on them and cousin said they had been bored.
He recommended 76cc heads.
I've looked around a bit but wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction. I am in North Dallas if anyone has local suggestions as well.
Thanks...This is my first big project so I'm learning.
JB

[jbreeves85C10]

Just found this code reference:
333882 – 1974-1980 350 or 400, 76cc chambers
Not sure about the history of this engine but my truck it was in is 85 C10.
JB

[rich weyand]

76cc heads are the low compression heads (smog heads) used to meet emissions standards and run on modern (i.e. crummy) pump gas.

If you are going to go with new heads, there are more exciting choices.

The alternative is to stick with what you have, which are the 76cc heads already.  You don't need to have a "valve job" on the heads; most of a valve job is replacing parts, which you are doing already.  The one bit of machining work that is probably worth having done is to clean up the seats.  Special grinder and grinding bits for this, but just having the seats cleaned up is a pretty cheap machining job.  Then you put in all the new parts and you're good to go.

[jbreeves85C10]

Thank you for the reply Rich. After reading a bazillion pages and talking to folks, I am going with World Products S/R Torquer series Iron heads # 042670 and a Comp xr264hr-10 hydraulic roller cam. Comp's site says this about timing:
"Second, the factory timing set may be machined to retard cam timing."
Does anyone know if stock timing will actually retard the cam on a 65-79 chevy block #3970010? Comp says "May retard". Comp says the cam is ground 4 degrees advanced for performance already. I am calling them tomorrow but think they might scew their answer to get me to buy their timing set :-) They don't seem to like to talk to stupid people like me and got frustrated today. I got put on eternal hold because I couldn't answer a question...LOL. I now know my compression ratio though.
Thanks in advance...I'm learning as I go.
JB

[rich weyand]

Is that a roller block?

[jbreeves85C10]

Here comes my non-mechanic side...I don't know but the cam is a retro fit package if that tells you anything. My cousin told me it would work :-)

[bd]

Rich can review the cam profile with you and its suitability to your purpose.  Nonetheless,  here are a few things to ponder when considering retrofitting a roller cam: 

• Retrofitting a roller cam to a non-roller block is pricey, especially when committing to a mild grind that may only marginally benefit from a roller configuration.  Beyond the advantage of decreased lobe & lifter wear, the milder the lobe profile, the less performance benefit a roller can provide over a flat tappet cam.  So, with regard to mild grinds a roller configuration offers little performance benefit over a flat tappet cam, but at much greater cost.
  
  
• You'll need a double roller timing set with a Torrington thrust, plus a cam button to limit cam endplay to ~0.003" - 0.006" or you'll risk damaging the cam from the lifters scuffing sideways across the lobes as the cam walks fore and aft in its bore. 
  
  
• You may need to clearance the front of the block to make space for the double roller cam gear.  This is just a consequence of a double roller timing set, regardless of the style of camshaft used.
  
  
• You'll need to swap the factory timing cover for a model that's stiffer to control deflection, since the cam thrusts directly against the cover via the cam button to limit endplay. 
  
  
• Although the cam you're considering is a mild grind, roller profiles accelerate valve opening and closing with steeper ramps when compared to flat tappet cams.  The valve springs must be matched to the lobe profiles to prevent valve float and camshaft damage.  Check with your camshaft grinder to determine whether you'll need to upgrade the valve springs as part of the retrofit.  If the heads come assembled, it's just as important to make sure the supplied valve springs are not too "stiff" for the cam your installing; excessive spring pressure is also damaging to lobes and lifters.
  
  
• Find out from the cam grinder whether you can use your stock distributor gear with the specific cam you select.  Steel cam cores require special distributor gears (bronze or polymer) to mitigate rapid gear wear due to hardness incompatibility.
  
  
• If you commit to the expense of a roller cam, you should consider full roller rockers, as well.
  
  
• Don't forget to inspect the cam bearings for wear and replace them if necessary.
  
  
• Liberally lube the cam lobes and lifters with Comp Cams 152.
  
  
• Check your valve train geometry to determine the correct pushrod length.
  
  
• Degree the camshaft according to the spec card supplied with the camshaft.
  
  
• Use a high quality break-in oil containing ZDDP to initially break in your new cam and valve train.

Others will add anything left out. 

[jbreeves85C10]

BD,
Awesome post and thank you very much. I'm sure that will help out a bunch of folks in my shoes...and me as well. I have been taking notes for days and have most of what you said noted to check in to but there were a couple of great points that I did not consider due to my lack of experience..!
Points 1-6 I have in notes to check.
Point 7 - roller rockers absolutely necessary? I think I saw around 500 for a set or something crazy like that.
Point 8 - thanks for this. I didn't know to check bearings :-)
Points 9-12 on my list.

I am looking at standard hydraulic cam and I already have a set of new stock lifters so total of about $150 to purchase cam versus somewhere around $800+ to go the roller route. Is the benefit worth the cost? You mentioned in point 1, little performance benefit. Am I wasting the money since I do not have a hot rod?

Thanks..!
JB

[bd]

No high performance component is absolutely necessary.  Roller rockers will benefit performance, especially if you increase the ratio to 1.6 from the factory 1.5, but in and of themselves provide greater benefit when matched with other high performance components.  Every high performance component has its trade-off: initial cost, increased noise, heat, maintenance, etc.  You need to decide on what you're trying to accomplish, how much you're willing to spend, then match components accordingly.  Cam bearings are fairly durable, but should be inspected when the cam is removed.  The more mileage on the bearings and the greater the load imparted by a high performance valve train, the more likely the bearings will show signs of wear.

In a street truck, you should focus on increasing torque in the RPM range of dominate use.  Roller cams provide greater torque potential, but really come into their own as cam profiles become more robust.  A mild grind may not justify the high initial cost of retrofitting a roller.  Your immediate challenge is to decide on whether the cost of a roller is just too expensive - it certainly won't make your daily driver accelerate like a big block.

[jbreeves85C10]

Excellent points..! I got info on another head place from my cousin and a flat cam to go with. I just don't think the roller cam is going to benefit me for the cost right now since this is a daily driver. Thank you very much for the replies and making me think..!
JB

[jbreeves85C10]

It is ordered and I think with the help of everyone here I got a good setup for a good price.

Skip White Performance:
SBC CHEVY FULLY BUILT ALUMINUM HEADS 64CC HYD FLAT TAPPET PBM Valve Upgrade SETUP FOR HYD. FLAT TAPPET CAM.
Price:   $665.00
Added guide plates, rocker studs, extended head bolts with washers, 1.52 roller rockers, correct push rods, and break in oil.
$1,000 total for heads and extras with shipping.

Sumit:
Summit K00132 cam and lifter kit.
Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 280/280, Lift .467/.467, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
$133.97 shipped

[nlauffer]

What are you gonna run for intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and carburetion.  Just curious.

[jbreeves85C10]

Edelbrock dual plane performer intake, hedman headers, holley 650 cfm carb

[rich weyand]

With that cam it's gonna be slow off the line.  Going to a 2000 rpm torque converter will help.

Rough idle means poor low-rpm performance.

[jbreeves85C10]

I was not too sure on that and you are exactly right. I may upgrade the converter after I see how it runs but the other thing I had in mind was  building out a 383 roller in the future. Those heads should be golden for that rig :-)