Clutch return

[Les_Paul]

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you know I had to replace a lot of the wiring under the hood to fix the truck not starting. And I also replaced the idler and pitman arms, power steering pump, master cylinder, and brake hoses. So the truck is running great!

Now I'm stuck on another issue (pun intended  )

I have a 3 speed manual with a granny gear ('73 C30), and the clutch pedal does not completely return. I have to put my foot under the pedal and pull it out about 1/4" after each shift. Not a big deal considering it's only a 3 speed, but I would prefer to drive it like a normal vehicle! If I don't pull it out the last 1/4" there is a slight whining sound. As soon as the pedal travels the last 1/4" the whining stops.

I tried putting a new return spring on yesterday, but it still does the same thing. Is something not lubricated? I saw in another thread someone suggested using WD-40...don't know if that's a good idea or not. Thanks in advance!

[rich weyand]

WD-40 is not a lubricant.  For something with the penetrating power of WD-40 that carries lubricant with it, use Silikroil.  Also great for door hinge pins, door detent/cam, hood hinges, tailgate hinges,....
http://www.eastwood.com/sili-kroil-aerosol-16-5-oz.html?srccode=ga220010&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=zzproduct_ads&adtype=pla&kw=&matchtype=&network=g&creativeid=27631101327&placement=&producttargetid=54067476927&gclid=CIOMrqPHqLsCFVBgMgoda0gA_Q

[bd]

Refer to the 1973 Service Manual page 7M-2 (pg. 592), Figure 1a and page 7M-8 (pg. 598), Figure 4.  Are you missing any of the springs?  Is the linkage excessively worn and/or dry?  How about the clutch fork, pivot ball, bell-crank bushings, and rod ends?  Don't forget the clutch pedal bushings - is there a lot of side-to-side play in the pedal?  You may have to replace a few worn parts if lubrication alone doesn't help.  All of the pivot points should be lubricated with grease.

One-ton G and P model chassis use an over-center spring on the pedal assembly under the dash.  If your pedal assembly has the spring anchor illustrated for the C-K models in Fig. 4, you may be able to add a supplemental spring to assist pedal return.

[Les_Paul]

Thanks for the replies. I have never heard of Silikroil! Looks great.

Also, I am going to try to get underneath and make sure I have all the springs shown in the diagrams. How do I check the linkage? This is my first manual transmission so I have no idea how to maintain it. Also, I looked under the dash two days ago and saw I have a massive spring under the dash...

[bd]

Inspect all of the rod ends (including the short push-pin that engages the clutch fork) for radial notching and grooving, plus the mating lever holes for oblong wear.  Make sure all linkage connections are greased.  Check for excessive side-to-side (radial) looseness in the bellcrank bushings (don't be alarmed about end-to-end (axial) movement of the bellcrank, which is necessary to allow for engine movement).  Make sure the bellcrank pivot ball above the oil filter is threaded tightly into the engine block.  Use a flashlight to peer inside the bellhousing at the fork pivot ball on which the clutch fork anchors to the bellhousing and pivots.  Cumulative wear and galled connection points can bind the linkage from excess friction and interfere with its free motion and release.  Don't forget to inspect and lubricate the linkage under the dash, as well.

[rich weyand]

See page 592:
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Service/ST_330_73_1973_Chevrolet_Light_Truck_Service_Manual.pdf

[Les_Paul]

Thanks guys. Looks like it's my throw out bearing. I eliminated everything else I could access without taking the transmission apart. Guess this means a trip to the mechanic for me 

[bd]

...I have a 3 speed manual with a granny gear ('73 C30), and the clutch pedal does not completely return. I have to put my foot under the pedal and pull it out about 1/4" after each shift.  ...If I don't pull it out the last 1/4" there is a slight whining sound. As soon as the pedal travels the last 1/4" the whining stops.

...Looks like it's my throw out bearing. I eliminated everything else I could access without taking the transmission apart. Guess this means a trip to the mechanic for me 

The 'whining' may be the T/O bearing... however, you posted that it isn't releasing completely w/o 'lifting' the clutch pedal with your toe.  Meaning, the T/O bearing drags constantly against the clutch, which heats the bearing, causing it to lose lubricant and "whine."  You need to determine why the pedal isn't returning all the way and correct that, or it won't be long before the new T/O bearing is making a similar noise.  Inspect the fork, the pivot ball stud and the transmission front bearing retainer for wear.  Replace any parts that appear worn.  The T/O bearing should slide freely fore and aft on the bearing retainer, generously lubricated by a film of grease - the bearing retainer neck (which doubles as the T/O bearing support) should be cylindrical and smooth with no evidence of galling or concentric valleys and ridges.  The bearing retainer should fit the inside diameter of the T/O bearing, so that the T/O bearing is held in alignment and square with the clutch release fingers.  See the 1973 Service Manual, Figures 6, 8 and 9 on pages 7M-11 through 7M-13 (pgs. 601 - 603), respectively.

If you take your truck in for repair, make sure the pedal returns all the way when you get it back, or the job isn't complete.  Let us know how it turns out.