Power steering gearbox question

[Magic1]

On my 82 Sierra k10 I've taken about all the play out of it using the adjustment screw that I think I can without putting it in a bind. All the front end parts are new and as far as I can tell the weak link causing front end play is the gearbox. I was wondering how many of you all have replaced your box and could you tell much of an improvement in your steering tightness? Don't get me wrong, I know that these trucks probably won't ever drive as tight as a newer one does but I think the steering should be better especially with all new parts up front.

[ehjorten]

There will always be some play in the steering because the spool valve in the steering box needs that play to actuate properly.

That being said...how much play yours has I cannot say.  Your steering box may just need to be rebuilt.  If you play around with the over-center play in the sector shaft of the steering gear much and you do not do it properly, you will wear-out the gears more and create a worse problem.

[blazing816]

Also, check for cracks in the frame around where the box bolts to the frame. Our trucks are know to have a weak point there, and there is even kits (bolt-on and weld) that strength that area to stop it from happing again.

[Magic1]

There will always be some play in the steering because the spool valve in the steering box needs that play to actuate properly.

That being said...how much play yours has I cannot say.  Your steering box may just need to be rebuilt.  If you play around with the over-center play in the sector shaft of the steering gear much and you do not do it properly, you will wear-out the gears more and create a worse problem.

It feels like the wheels track with the flow of the road from side to side and you have to overcorrect to hold a straight line if that makes sense. I looked it up on YouTube and read about it on the Internet so that's all I can go off of but the way I adjusted it was to hold the adjustment screw in place while backing off the jamb nut then tightened the adjustment screw only about an eighth of a turn at a time. Then I checked for play.

[Magic1]

Also, check for cracks in the frame around where the box bolts to the frame. Our trucks are know to have a weak point there, and there is even kits (bolt-on and weld) that strength that area to stop it from happing again.

Yeah mine was cracked when I got it so I bought one of those frame kits and welded it in. Hopefully that's the end of that but I always check it when I'm under the front end.

[Jason S]

Along with a loose steering gear box,  'bump-steer' from the push-pull stock setup will have an effect on driving.  Going to a crossover steering setup will go a long way to alleviate bump-steer, but it can be pricey.

[Magic1]

Along with a loose steering gear box,  'bump-steer' from the push-pull stock setup will have an effect on driving.  Going to a crossover steering setup will go a long way to alleviate bump-steer, but it can be pricey.

I've looked at the crossover steering setup that offroad design sells and it looks nice but is a little expensive.  Would a good steering stabilizer help take out a lot of that?

[bd]

It feels like the wheels track with the flow of the road from side to side and you have to overcorrect to hold a straight line if that makes sense....

Have you torqued the axle u-bolts?  Have you verified the toe setting and alignment?

[Engineer]

If all you did was to adjust the sector shaft you may still have much of the play in your steering box.

The worm shaft needs to be adjusted before the sector. Tightening by feel isn't good enough. You need to adjust the worm shaft preload, and verify it by using an in/LB torque wrench.

If you tightened the sector without tightening the worm your truck could actually drive worse since the binding sector gear will limit the box's tendency to return to center.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/570869-saginaw-box-rebuild-how.html

Check out this link. Pay attention to the reassembly phase for properly preloading the worm gear. You do not need to disassemble the box to tighten the worm, but tightening the worm before the sector is paramount to better steering.

[Engineer]

Also, make sure your rag joint isn't bad. I have had to replace the rag joint on my '94 K2500, and my Blazer. Both times it fixed a "sloppy steering box".

[Magic1]

It feels like the wheels track with the flow of the road from side to side and you have to overcorrect to hold a straight line if that makes sense....

Have you torqued the axle u-bolts?  Have you verified the toe setting and alignment?

I've had it lined up but haven't actually torqued the u joints. When I replaced the front springs I cinched the u joints down good, drove it, and checked them all for looseness.

[Magic1]

Also, make sure your rag joint isn't bad. I have had to replace the rag joint on my '94 K2500, and my Blazer. Both times it fixed a "sloppy steering box".

If you're talking about the drag link adjustment then I have replaced that whole assembly. Both ends and the coupler between the pitman arm and knuckle.

[Engineer]

Also, make sure your rag joint isn't bad. I have had to replace the rag joint on my '94 K2500, and my Blazer. Both times it fixed a "sloppy steering box".

If you're talking about the drag link adjustment then I have replaced that whole assembly. Both ends and the coupler between the pitman arm and knuckle.

Nope.

The rag joint is the rubber flex member on the lower end of your steering shaft nearest to the steering box. If this thing gets soft from oil, or dry from age it can get loose and act sloppy.

[Magic1]

Sorry man. Wasn't thinking. I just call it a steering coupler. Lol. Yeah I replaced it too and made a big difference in the steering feel. The old one was shot.