would the tcc still mess with it if he switch to neutral? the oxygen sensor doesn't do anything till the engine coolant sensor reaches operating temp. then the "cold start" kicks off and the oxygen sensor starts working regulating how much fuel. so.... it could be a problem. why did you rebuild the throttle body?
this might help
10.
The engine is revving up and down when I come
down to an idle. There is a large “sucking” sound
coming from the throttle body when it is warmed up.
My engine stalls or almost stalls when I come down
to an idle. This is usually an indication of a vacuum leak; again make sure that you have no vacuum leaks.
This could also be an indication of the wrong base ignition timing. Verify that you have set your
ignition timing correctly (see #4).
Your engine may also require more air going through the throttle plates at idle than it is currently
set for. Here is a procedure to check this setting.
a. Make sure your engine temperature is at full operating temperature.
b. Jumper Pins A & B of the ALDL connector (I use a paper clip) with the key on but the
engine off. This is the same thing you do when checking for engine codes and your
check engine light will flash off and on.
c. Wait about 45 seconds or until any trouble codes present have flashed through; code
12 is normal (see #14) After this then unplug your IAC valve which is on the throttle
body but do not turn off the key.
d. Remove the jumper from the ALDL, turn the key off, wait 15 seconds and start the
engine. It may start hard and you may have to depress the throttle pedal a little bit to
start the engine.
e. If you have a fast idle this did not work or you have a vacuum leak that is not
repaired, or the throttle plates are already too far open. You may have to tape over the
fresh air hole that the IAC receives its air from.
f. If you do not have a fast idle then it is OK and you can proceed to adjust the throttle
plates. Let the engine idle for a little bit and then check you idle speed. The speed
should be about 575 – 600 at idle in drive or about 50 rpm less than you requested for
your chip. If it is lower than this you can raise the idle up or if it is above this determine
if you should bring the speed down. More than likely it will always be lower.
g. There is a little cap on the side of the throttle body by your throttle lever that has an
adjustment screw under it (if not already removed).
h. Remove this cap and use the screw under there to adjust your base idle speed
without the IAC operational. Base idle is to be set in drive for an automatic transmission.
i. If you have done all of this and you still have an issue we may not have received all of
the proper information to build your chip and you will need to call tech support.
If you have gone through all of the above procedures and the engine is still
idling too high you will need to call tech support. When you call tech support
you will need to have the following information available.
Voltage measured between the black wire and brown wire on the TPS with the key on engine not
running__________________
Engine RPM at start up idle on a cold start___________________________
Engine RPM at idle with stabilized temperature_______________________
Engine RPM at idle with IAC fully seated or blocked off.___________________
IAC counts at stabilized idle in drive if using a scan tool____________________
Engine operational temperature_______________________
Initial ignition timing_____________________
Any information that you feel is important for diagnosing the issue at hand
The above is from
HERE the only problem i have is who the heck is tech suport
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