Saddle tanks with AN lines/fittings?

[MANCHU1-9IN]

Has anyone revamped there fuel system with AN lines/fittings while retaining the stock or Pollak high flow switching valve?
I think I may have jump the gun a bit by ordering all my fuel system parts without the proper research before hand. My main concern is attaching the lines to the valve. There just doesn't seem to be enough room for the fittings. Really wish I would have waited to get everything mocked in before dropping the cash on this stuff. 

Can the fuel injection specific worm clamps be used with the braided fuel line?
Any other suggestions?

[Captkaos]

This probably could have went in the LS section, but...

On the switching valve, I would use high pressure EFI E85 safe fuel line with the fuel line clamps.

Where are you going with the braided lines?  From the tank to the switching valve?

[MANCHU1-9IN]

Lol sorry Capt. I was about to post it there but figured it could be helpful for other non LS fuel injected swaps if someone wanted to add some show to there go.

Correct, my initial plan was to run braided lines throughout the entire fuel system. From each tank to the valve, then on to the fuel rails, and reverse for the return lines.
The same fitment issues also apply to the sending units as they are rather close together.

[Captkaos]

No biggie, that is why I left it here.
Since the switching valve is plastic, you aren't going to be able to easily adapt an AN fitting on there. 
You are using an aftermarket switching valve correct.  If it is an original one for a carb or TBI it won't be able to handle the pressure.  I would run high pressure hose and clamp it and then run braided from the filter forward.


BTW, you can get the metric to AN adapters to fit the sending unit.

[MANCHU1-9IN]

I am using a high flow switching valve that's rated to 75psi? not 100% sure off the top of my head, but its the only one I could find.

That is a good idea, I guess I could run about 6" of high pressure hose clamped to the valve, and use barbed AN fittings to complete the run to the tanks and fuel rail. No sure how that's going to look, but It may be my only choice at the moment.

I have fittings that will attach to the sending units, but since the inlet tubes are so close together I do not think the they will work.

[Captkaos]

Just tweak them some.  I had the ones above on a pickup also.

[MANCHU1-9IN]

The tubes seem so fragile lol. I need to take a closer look at everything, but it has been so cold here lately I just cannot get motivated.

[ehjorten]

What fittings did you use to attach to the sending unit?  Did you have to cut the flare off, push on the fittings and then use a tool to reform the tube ends?  Are they o-ring fittings?

[Captkaos]

Erik, are you asking me?  If so...
I get all my stuff from Pure Choice: You want all 4 PN's listed on this page:
http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=310/category_id=132/home_id=97/mode=prod/prd310.htm
 
For the factory fuel rail.
P/N   5810       3/8" tube (green clip)
P/N   5820       5/16" tube (blue clip)


For the sending unit:
P/N   5860      14mm female (return line)
P/N   5870      16mm female (feed line)

[HAULIN IT]

What is the valve/tubes made out of on the unit you have? When you say: "Theres not much room"...are you talking length of tube or clearance around between one to the next? Can you post a couple pictures? Lorne

[MANCHU1-9IN]

Sorry Haulin, I managed to miss your post somehow.

I believe the sending units are stainless steel. I was referring to the clearance around the tubes. My biggest issue is that I went with a -8 feed line and the enormous fitting may be too big. I have bigger troubles though, the fittings I bought are Russell RUS-644133 which are not going to work (unless I am just a tard) with the lines that have the nipple on the end.

I am almost ready to just run standard FI hose/clamps, and just sell the the AN stuff. My own stupidity has wasted a lot of money trying to work this out.

[bd]

One approach is to cut the barbs off the end of the tubes, purchase steel AN fittings, trim/bore the fittings to the correct dimensions to slip over the tubes and then nickle-silver braze them on.  I've done this many times for high pressure fuel lines and low pressure power steering lines with perfect success.  Of course, you'll need to use swivel ends on the hoses.

[MANCHU1-9IN]

Thanks for the suggestion bd. I'll have to look into brazing, Never done it unfortunately. At this point I am looking for the cheapest option to make what I have work; that may just do the trick.  I had to order 2 new fuel tanks, so at least my entire fuel system will be 100% new lol

[HAULIN IT]

Rich has you going in the right direction...I've done that many times when making custom stuff. A trip to a hydraulic supply store will have you everything you need. Cut off the bump on your sending unit leaving the length stagered so they don't hit each other(it's not going to be stainless by the way, just tin/zinc coated steel), cut off the barbed end that would slide in the hose on the fitting, grind flush with the wrench flat area & drill down in with a drill bit the size of you tube 1/4"-5/16" deep & braze or silver solder them on. Wrap a wet rag around the base of the tube where it goes through the top plate so your heat doesn't soften the solder there. Like Rich, I've done this many times with great results. Lorne

[MANCHU1-9IN]

Thanks guys! This will probably be the direction I go in. As for the tubes themselves; they are just soldered into place on the sending unit? So I should be able to take a torch to the solder points and rotate them where I need them, correct? Please excuse my inexperience.
Could either of you gents suggest the right solder to use? I thought brazing/soldering were the same thing, so I'm going to have to watch a few youtube videos before I attempt this lol.