Upgrading to Power Windows and Locks

[Mario]

My truck is an '81 K20 with manual windows and locks.  About 15 years ago I pulled off doors from a Suburban at a junk yard, but I don't recall what year it was.  Someone had already cut the wires to the switches and taken them, but I took the harness anyway.  I noticed that there is a cutoff in years for the switches (77-81 and 82-87).  I know the glass is the thinner, and the window motors the smaller.  The driver's side sticker is torn off.  I noticed that the door panels have some raised coded information.  There are rows with "83, 84, & 85", and dots for multiple months (J, A, S, O, N, D, J, F, M, A, M, & J).  How can I determine what year of switches and matching connectors to purchase?  I found a company that sells the terminals so I could wire it with out the connectors, but I run the risk of shorting if not unplugged from the fuse box first.  Also, I need a cab side grommet at the flexible conduit, the male power lock connector inside the cab, and power lock relay.  Can anyone help out with information, or where to find these components?  Thanks!

[bake74]

     Show some pics of what you have so we can see what it is.  As far as parts, e-mail Capt. at the store on this site and he can at least tell you if he has the parts or can get them, he has many different sources for parts for our trucks.

[Mario]

I'd like to have the grommet to the left of the flexible conduit.  I learned that the male connector for the power locks is an AC Delco PT359.  If I use aftermarket relays and wire it as shown on another post here, then I can use switches with 3 pins.  Is that correct?  I would still need the proper 3 pin switches, and matching connectors.  What year would I be shopping for, and where?  Thanks for the help!

[DnStClr]

My 87 has the 3 pin switches for the pwr door locks.  The pwr window (switches) on drivers side is a double switch and has 6 pins.  The pwr window switch on passenger side has 5 pins. I'm just guessing, but I'd think that any 81-87 door would have the same configuration of power switches.
This is a picture of what the harness connectors look like-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Window-Lock-Switch-Wire-Wiring-Plug-Plugs-Connector-Connectors-Harness-/261460012603?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce03b2e3b

[Mario]

I saw that post on E-bay, and I almost bought those.  I've read that the break between window glass and motor size is 81 and 82.  I'm not sure if there is any difference in the switches.  Sometimes, I like to put things back together on my truck exactly like from the factory.  Other times, not so much.  I got to thinking last night that if I'm going to use relays to operate the motors, then I may as well consider non-factory switches.  What if I were to use a SPDT center open rocker switch?  One cool thing about that is, the windows would have a "hands free" up or down function.  I'm assuming that most rocker switches lock into positions A and B.  Unlike our factory switches that a person has to hold.  What I don't know about is, how the motors would turn off if someone didn't flip the rocker switch to center?  Do the switch internals sense the change in amperage, and switch to the open position?  ...or is there a different component to add? 

[LTZ C20]

2 cents here, could be wrong tho. I'm guessing that when we active a switch, whether up or down, when is stops at the top or bottom, the motor and regulator and window channels all bind momentarily, as soon as this bind occurs, the window stops moving and subconsciously we recognize this stop in motion and let go of the switch. All of this happening in a motor of 1 second or so. Just a thought.

[Captkaos]

The whole wiring harness is in the catalog:

http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=7&Product_Code=4990-10-356&Category_Code=6T

[Mario]

Ohhh dang!  Hadn't seen that.  That's nice, thanks!  I'm still a few weeks away from being ready for electrical.