where is drop measured?

[temp190]

is the drop like 2/4 or  4/6 measured from end of frame or axle location, i put on 2" shackles and raised spring hangers 2" but  ive notice the axle location is only changed by 2" not 4". i have one side done and measured against the factory side. only 2" difference in leaf at center pin not 4" i thought it would be. obvious that the spindle was located 2 1/2 up from factory, but rear seems different. when truck was together 4 to 4 1/2" would have put fender lip close to top of tire wich is what im going for. i took overload out thinking it would net me close to 4 1/2" drop at axle. i dont want to put back together to find out its not what i wanted, not sure if id like the axle flip cause the way it sat before 6" would be to low for me.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Total drop is measured at the axle. On the front it's easy because you're lowering at the axle center ONLY. (Drop spindles or springs)
The rear is a bit different because you can raise on end of the spring, both ends of the spring, flip the axle itself to the top of the spring or a combination of any of the above.
If you add 2" shackles to the rear, but don't move the front, your total drop will only be about 1" because of the offset. Adding a 2" shackle AND a 2" raised spring mount will give you a total 2" drop.
Just flipping the axle to the top of the spring (No spring adjustment) will give you about 5" to 5.5" drop.

[temp190]

ok, im wanting to stick with 4-4 1/2",  guess my question is, with the 2/4 kit how is the rear done exactly? 2" shackles and how far up does it relocated spring hanger?
ive been playing around and raised factory hanger 3" and raised rear hanger up 1" plus the 2" shackle, got close to 4" with overload removed.
back to my question, how is 4" achieved with a 'kit'.
sorry if im sounding generic.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

It sounds like you've already removed both hangers. Not sure what 'kit' you have, but it should have come with spec sheets.
I know if you raise the rear of the spring to much, you'll have to notch the cross member on the bed to clear the shackle.
Achieving the exact height you want can be a matter of trial and error. My friends truck started with an axle flip (to low) so he lowered the spring mounts about 3/4" front and back to bring the truck back up a bit.
If you can post pics it would be easier to see what you're dealing with.

[temp190]

ill get some pics asap, i have to notch bed rail with the taller shackle, no big deal, the reason i ask about whats involved using a 'kit' is im not using one, i got 2" lowering shackles for rear of leaf,raised rear shackle hanger up 1" and relocating factory leaf hanger in front 3" as of now, and although i will get it figured out i am wanting some advice/opinions/options, and i do truly appreciate your time and info. thank you.

[HAULIN IT]

Welcome to the site! All of this "raising" word makes me have a fever & shake all over The tires are on the ground, the springs are attached to the axle, the hangers mount to the springs & hold the weight of the frame, cab, bed, ect. off the ground...what you are doing is LOWERING the frame, let's leave the word "raised" to the 4x4 guys. I realize even companies selling the products use the word "raised", but it drives me crazy...your lowering the truck, your lowering the frame on the constaint...the springs/hangers.
On to your questions. The 2" shackles only lower a truck (roughly 1 1/2"-1 3/4" at the wheelwell/bumper) All of the exact amount is an opinion & interpretation of somebody making/selling a "kit" if that is what is being used. So to say "Where is this measured or How is this done" is only part of the story. To lower the back a true 4"...some version of flatter "de-arched" springs are an option unless you do as you describe & move all of the hangers on the frame/buy new custom made hangers. I did my truck that way originally (removed the bed crossmember completely above the spring, dropped the frame down until I had 1/8" between the spring & bed floor...mounted it, then lowered the jack some more with the front hanger attached to the spring but not the frame until the pinion angle come into correct, ect. & drilled some holes...this got me about 4 1/2" total. As BAD mentioned, the back is the limiting factor as you really want some angle upward to the rear in a leaf spring.
The BIG story here is, the number of inches or how it's measured isn't important...it's getting the right "look" & as much as you say you want "to stick with 4-4 1/2" drop"...8-10 people that spend any amount of time around lowered trucks will agree the right "look" is 4-6 or more like 5-7...ask any guy on here with a 4-6 or 5-7 & they will tell you they get more complements on the truck: "sittn' just right!" The height these trucks were stock is so silly that a 2-4 just starts to make them not look like a 4x4. Here is a picture of my truck with 1 1/2" lowering front springs & 2" shackles! Just silly looking

Here it is with the aboved described "rear lowering method"...better, but still not enough. In the photo, the truck is launching so the front is up about an inch or so from rest, the back is about the same, maybe squatted slightly.
 
After the angled bodydrop & axle flip (with the rear hanger turned upside down) for a total of about 7" ...the truck sits "right" my opinion & a obviously whole bunch of other people as everywhere we go or post a picture, someone says: "Dang, that thing sits just right" My Two Cents, Have a Great Day, Lorne