Battery Relocation

[HAULIN IT]

Guys, I've decided to move the battery in our truck after doing some research as to the advantage of moving the weight from a foot ahead of the front wheel to a foot behind the rear wheel. I don't have the math in front of me, but it went something like: Taking 40lbs away a foot in front of the axle & placing it a foot behind the rear axle would be equal to ADDING something like 100lbs in the rear...that HAS to improve traction! Also, in it's present location, the battery is in the worst place (Driver's front) based on equal weight side to side & is being moved to the best place (Right rear) side to side as well.

I have to say & I've mentioned it here before that I'm not sure it's really worth it due to the extra wiring, switches, ect. needed to make the move legal for NHRA/IHRA racing & also a "safer" installation (meaning the BIG "0" gauge wire is only live while cranking & not the whole time the battery is hooked up)...we're going to find out.

I'm taking some photos during the move in case others have an interest. I've bent up/welded a "box,tray" whatever you want to call it that bolts in the Right rear corner using original holes (all but 1) that hold the wheelwell & bedside to the floor. The one side you will recognize as the mudshield that is bolted under the floor that I incorporated into the box. The battery is held in with the required (2) 3/8" bolts. I also made a mount for the required cut-off switch attached to the "battery module" so it is close to the battery.

Here's a few pictures
 


So I got it mounted in there. The previously done 2" bodydrop allowed the full-size battery to stand up between the floor & the bottom of the bedside without sticking down looking stupid.


I made up a matching wheelwell extension, mudflap...flying rubber catcher, whatever you want to call it for the Left side while I was at it so they match.

Then I bent up the rod to activate the kill-switch using the minimum allowed 5/16" diameter so I run it through the bumper bolt.

And labeled it as required


Got to sorting out how & where to run the wiring. In holding the solenoid switch/relay...I find 2 holes with the correct spacing originally in the frame about 2" from where I was holding it planning to mount it...Go Figure! I'm mounting it on the inside of the frame in this location

Here is pretty much where I'm at now. I have the wires all run temporarily to sort out lengths, terminal ends & routing.
 
I'll post some more pictures once I get everything fused, wrapped, installed & tidied-up. Lorne


 

 

[bake74]

     I understand in the racing world what each pound can mean better time.  So I will be curious as to how much if any it changes your time and if you did anything else along with the battery move.

[Captkaos]

Cool on my other truck that has the fiberglass front end I have a tray to relocate mine too.  Let us know how it works out.

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
captkaoscustoms.com
squarebody.biz

[HAULIN IT]

Got some more done. Soldered a bunch of ends, shrink tubed & wrapped some of the wires. Still need to separate the wiring on the junction block, run some loom & the starter (cranking) wire from the firewall side of the fusebox to the solenoid.
On the bigger wire/ends like these...I drill a small hole in the end & heat the bottom of the terminal end & "feed" the solder in the hole. It fills the "cup" of the end & gives a good fused connection

Two layers of shrink tubing & we're all good

I got the rear cables done.


On these I put the loom on & then slid a piece of shrink tubing over it all & melted it down to make a nice, sealed piece that won't come loose, slide, ect.


I'm using these fuse holders from the S-10's for protection for the wiring to the cab, from the alternator, ect.

I got the wire ran that is going to feed all of the cab functions once the starter wires are removed/dead & the alternator is separated.
 
That's all for now...I better get to work! Lorne
 

[DnStClr]

Well I like it and all Lorne, but i just cant see myself drillin a hole thru my bumper bolt like that...especially if it's stainless for cryin out loud...

[HAULIN IT]

Don, What's the concern with a bumper bolt? It's not like it's an all original '50 Jaguar or a '70 Hemi Cuda or something. Heck, my truck had a rusty silver painted step bumper when I got it. The bolts are from the local supply store...about a buck fifty nine will buy another one. I buy them by the handful. I've chopped, hacked up, threw away, changed way more important parts on our truck then a bumper bolt...Just ask Stewart. But to each his own.   Lorne   

[DnStClr]

(Actually I'm just yankin your chain a little bit Lorne. ) We all love that truck.