Sporadic questions about restomod... And some updates

[87project]

Hey Friends

   I want your input on some questions.

1. I have wire wheeled the rear section of the frame. I am taking off all crossmembers and suspension hangers. I assume everyone goes back with Grade 8 9/16" bolts in place of the rivets ( there may be some larger holes also). Also, I worry about nuts getting loose, so did you use nylock nuts or what???   I don't really want to use lock washers as in my opinion it will promote rust.

2. As much grinding as I am doing, can I just re-prime and then paint with enamel from TSC? I don't mind using chassis saver, but just wondering what others have done....   I'm in Alabama, so no salt, but I don't want to see it bubbling in a year either...  I'm considering high $$ spray primer, and paint. What brand would you suggest if you were to go this route???

3. I plan on doing a 2.5" Rancho springs in the front. Would a 2" block in the rear be too much rake. I would like it level, or even some (minor) bulldog stance. What say you. Blocks are CHEAPO!!!  I am also considering a 4" lift.... but do not want to get into vibrations or drive-shaft lengthening issues.

4. Bed bolts, I plan on going back with grade 8 bolts instead of the original style, any reason not too??? In trying to remove the original bolts, some have already spun

5. How tight do I tighten the straps on the gas tank???

6. Is the   headlight wiring harness worth buying for this truck? It's about $30 and supposedly takes the load of the switch in the cab. Is there a "4 on" mod for my 87 truck? I would like the Lows to stay on when I run the high beams...

7. How would chassis saver work on the bottom of the bed and wheel wells?

PS- ordered a connector kit for my rear wiring harness, had a stereo shop solder it. It now looks brand new. No more but splices and crimps.... previous owner had even used twist type... BOOO
Also got new tank hangers Installed and ready to go!!! Gas guage started working again.

That's all for now.... Glad this isn't *irate4x4 forum.... they flame extensively
By the way, I have searched each subject... just want opinions and your experiences

[87project]

ALSO - for a bit of lift, what about adding a rear main spring to the front spring with the eyes cut off? Talk about a cheap 2.5-3" lift. Anybody done this???

[Captkaos]

1. Why do you want to remove all of the crossmembers and hangers?  I honestly wouldn't unless you are repacing them.  Is it rusted really bad and you are replacing pieces?  If you do removed the rivets, Definitely Grade 8 bolts.  I would use lock washers and nylock nuts.

2. I sandblasted mine still together and I took it home and sprayed it with POR15 with 2 coats (same as Chassis saver) an while the last one was drying I painted Chassis enable gloss black over it.  So far it isn't rusting or bubbling at all...

3. I personally wouldn't use a Block in the back but It will put the front higher than the rear.  If you are going with a 4" lift just get an all spring lift.  It will keep you from having to buy twice.  You could also do a shackle fip on the rear to get more lift.

4. No reason at all.  The originals allowed things to slide over them.  I have tacked the bolt to the bed in 2 places to get them out and coated them with PB blaster the prior evening...  repeat if necessary.

5. Not sure what you mean by this, but you want it tight enough for it not to move.

6. You mean a relay kit it makes it much brighter.  There are post here on how to do it yourself..  The lows should be on when the highs are on already.

7. Chassis saver would be the same as on everything else.

For front springs they are reverse arched, it would have to be pretty flat to work.

[87project]

Thank you Capt....  It was a long post.... sorry

[Captkaos]

Nothing to be sorry about.

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

[roundhouse]

To get the rear level
Buy a 4" block and have a machine shop remove material to get the height you want

I wouldnt remove the hangers unless they are really rusty


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[87project]

Hey Roundhouse, what's your logic? NO sarcasm, I really want to know why you say that!

[roundhouse]

Hey Roundhouse, what's your logic? NO sarcasm, I really want to know why you say that!

I was just thinking that if you couldn't find a Lift block the height you wanted , you could have one cut down to the right stance

And I re read your original post and it seems that your are stripping everything from the frame to paint it ?

You may want to consider reinforcing the frame while you have it stripped down
   Someone makes plates to go inside the frame to strengthen it
And a brace for the steering box

I was looking at the frame on mine tonight
When you turn the wheels you can see the top rail raise and lower


That's one of the bad things about the square bodies
THe frame Is really twisty

I also have a early bronco and the frame was fully boxed from the factory.   It's very strong and doesn't twist like the squarebody frames

I'd use nylon locknuts and grade 8 bolts
To replace the rivets

I've heard an air chisel is the fastest way to remove the rivets


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[87project]

My bad Roundhouse.... specifically, I was asking about why you wouldn't remove the spring hangers...  My concern is the flakes and chips of rust that I can't get to, in order to sand and paint...

[Captkaos]

As long as it isn't rusting behind the parts you should be ok.  Post some pictures of the bad areas?
Have you tried to scrap off the rust?  Any holes in the frame?

[roundhouse]

My bad Roundhouse.... specifically, I was asking about why you wouldn't remove the spring hangers...  My concern is the flakes and chips of rust that I can't get to, in order to sand and paint...

The design of the rear hangers is a bit strange

It allows dirt to fill up the entire hanger
Trapping water and causing the hanger to rust

If you're stripping everything else off
Might as well do the hangers too

I'd reinforce the frame on the front

Like this
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

And this
http://m.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Smittybilt-Frame-Repair-Kits/Make/CHEVROLET/Model/K10/


Closely check around the steering box and also
Believe it or not around the rear shock mounts

The square body frames are so weak that the rear shocks can crack it
Ive seen the frames actually break in half right at the rear shock mount


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